zgeezer

In researching specifications for the 1990 Infiniti M30, two separate web sites stated that the vehicles came standard with limited slip differentials. These sites listed M30's commencing from 1990. I found one with a build date in 1989. This one did not pass my field test for LSD (elevate rear, lock transmission, and turn one wheel. If the other wheel turns = open; If c/n turn wheel by hand = lsd or trash.) However, it is a long nose R200 with CV. Rear suspension looks early Maxima or 280zx. If you jy shoppers see one it might be worth your time to check it out. gw

Does the ECU on Ls1/Lt1 control the cruise control? Is anyone out there running cruise on an earlier non-cruise equipted Z? thanks g

ooooooooooohhhhhh, I was afraid I'd be doing this again. Practice, I'm told, does make perfect. Fortunately, I've still about 2 gallons of POR stripper in the back room. I appreciate the help. Great site, but too many great ideas, for a grease junky that lives vicariously off other's great rides. g

I applied the Tie Coat nearly 2 months after the Silver POR15. The POR was cured. The Cascade product is VB-1X (loooove these designations) see : http://cascadeaudio.com/prod/vb1x.html. It appears to be a petroleum product. Their tech states that it can be painted over. I applied the primer over the Cascade product about two weeks later. I've pulled off a sheet of the finish coat and it appears to be delaminating at the 3M/PPG primer interface. I primered the 3M product another 3 weeks after having sprayed it. This location is one of the hottest places in the US, [yeah, I know Arizona and Texas are h.a.h. but do they have towns called Thermal or Mecca?] Sorry, I digress. The zones of delamination are all on the upper surface and begins with 1inch square "crazing". I hope this is a weather exposure problem, but if it's preparation or contamination I need some insight into prepping 3M Schutz for paint. Finally, the POR rep talked to me and his opinion is that the Top Coat is delaminating in sheets b/c of contamination in the application. He suggested that the product was reduced with an inferior thinner. [it was applied straight on without thinner] or than the POR15 should be sanded or otherwise "roughed up" with a nylon pad. I'm going to clean up and respray the Top Coat. Redundant? How dare you say that, when you've not even seen the other 9 coats of product on the inside. Ask me to explain why I have three sets of everything, have taken two quarter panels up and back down to bare metal twice. Only my shrink knows...my wife despairs. Friends have died, married, divorced and remarried, while I continue with body work. I, too, seek the grail. Sorry, I digress. g g

Good Idea. I called the local distributer several months ago, but d/n contact the company. I'll do it. g

Referee stations do check casting and serial numbers. If it's a truck block you may really be screwed, even if all the passenger smog devices are in place and operating. g

I brush painted all my running gear/ suspension parts with black POR and then sprayed Top Coat (a POR product) over the POR. The parts where stored outside on a pallet in the sun. The POR/Top Coat stored next to the garage and under the eaves is in good shape. The Top Coat on all the other parts stored on the sunny side have delaminated have faded and delaminated to the POR (which has changed color, but is still intact and rust free) However, several other pieces sprayed with Krylon rattle paint cans have faded, but have not delaminated in any form. One moral is to cover all parts that have been TopCoated. The other moral may be to buy storage and keep all work indoors. g

Do I go back to step one? Here's my product list applied to underside of pan and wheel wells. 1. sandblasted to clean metal 2. POR silver (one coat brushed) 3. POR TieCoat (one coat brushed) 4. Cascade sound deadner (one coat spray, rough finish, not rubberized) 5. PPG "sealer" primer (don't remember product #, recommended by PPG sales shop) sprayed. 6. 3M Schutz rubberized undercoat, sprayed 4 quarts for under pan& wheel wells; 7. PPG "sealer" primer (same as above) and 8. Single stage PPG color. (Eight different coats...now I know where all my time has gone ) The car has been stored outside in low desert of CA , on its side. The PPG sealer and color is beginning to delaminate from the 3M undercoat along the bottom rocker panels and interior front wheel wells. These locations receive a lot of sun and are not shaded. Do I have a problem with the 3M rubberized undercoat or have I screwed up elsewhere. Is this a problem with storage? It's been about 18 months since the final color coat was sprayed. The delimination is showing up within the last 3 weeks. Any comments? May be 8 layers of anything would delaminate. I need some help on this b/c outdoor storage is all I have and I hope to spray first of three stages of color and clear on the rest of the body b/4 I begin assembly. It'll take another 18 months to finish the project and roll it into my garage. help. g

If you really want to carb an LT1 on the cheap using SBC pieces "in the garage" Then you might want to consider this. 1. Chevrolet sold an LT1 package with a carb rated by GM @, as I recall, 375HP. That manifold is available, but pricey. GM performance catalogue listed, last year, a block off plate to replace the OPTISPARK. A standard issue aluminum aftermarket intake manifold should match four bolts on the LT1 heads: the first and last bolt on each head. Redrill the manifold to match the LT1 heads, remove the quill holder inside the LT1 block (this piece locates the oil pump drive on the camshaft). Your SBC manifold will locate the distributor and, since the LT1's intake is dry, your SBC intake will have a large highly visible hole that used to mount a thermostat. Good for a real "What the Hell????" response when the hood is popped. Save all the computer pieces b/c you'll probably end up using them at some time. Can't beat the computer,.... really. g

Jeromio and Phantom: Thanks for the responses. g

I've used the search button for the last hour and still need information: I'm mounting a 2001 LQ7 (Middle sized chevy GENIII truck engine) and 4L60E in my '70 Z. Lots of information about engine mounting and exhaust clearance on the LS1. Can't find information relating to where you LS1 folks have mounted the ECU and if anyone has used or modified the stock LS1 FI loom. Has anyone used the standalone GM performance loom and ecu (part#12480054 & 12480055)? My preference would be to keep the original ECU. If this has been covered before, please give me some direction. For anyone contemplating this smaller or larger cast iron version of the LS1 consider the following: 1. it is a Truck engine and cannot be made smog legal in California; 2. The truck pan sits well to the back and it is DEEP (it hangs about 3 inches below the transmission pan) and will hang up on most anything larger than a beer can in the road (you don't really want to drag road kill home to the garage); 3. the intake manifold volumn is very close to the LS1, but it stands about 2 inches or so higher that the LS1; 4. with the exception of the A/C compressor, which is specifically designed from the factory to interfere with Z motor mount stands, all other accessories are mounted in a different order and higher that an LS1; 5. although the intake valves are smaller and the CR lower than the LS1, the combustion chambers are smaller than an LS1 and I think the intake/exhaust ports are the same; 6. you cannot retrofit an LS1 intake manifold to this engine w/o using all LS1 accessory mounting brackets and a new h20 pump; and, finally, unlike an LS1, which uses a rail cover that shows off the intake manifold to great advantage, the stock "Vortech" plastic bolts onto the manifold and is truly "butt ugly". The only stock dressup plastic I've located is on Cadillac Escalade and it's not too much of an improvement...expensive too. There are benefits (?): 1. In this neck of the woods they are dirt cheap (See above); 2. Stock LS1 cams are reputed to add another 25-30 hp (LS1 stock used cams sell on EBay for about $20 + shipping; 3. The LS1 oil pan & pickup are bolt on; and it appears to clear a 240 hood when mounted using a separate crossmember and corvette isolators (this is by measurement not actually installed). In reading the truck page of http://LS1.com I've concluded that about 50% of every late Silverado in Oklahoma and everyone of them in Texas is running a positive displacement supercharger. Consequently, there always seems to be a used supercharger for sale at that site. g

Has anyone out there attempted to mount front disks from a 1990 M30 on an early Z? I just eyeballed one in local JY. The rotors are large ventilated and mounted on 4 bolt hubs. The calipers appear smaller in bulk than the Toyoto V6 calipers in my garage, but the pads appear to be the same size. The junkie in charge tells me that the hubs should fit a 280Z... Hmmmmmmm. The rear disk brakes appear to use an emergency brake on the inside of the hub rather than actuate the rear caliper pucks. Finally, there is another posting stating that the M30 CV axles are shorter than the 280zxt axles. Is there any info out there. Is this a possible front disk brake upgrade that would not need the spacer rings of the Toyo 4x4 swap? gw

Sorry, I should have typed "3:36". Mine came out of the back trunk of a 260 2+2. g.

I saw it out today and it looks the same as a 240sx, which I understand is a R200. Thanks for the response. The twist and count test indicates something around 4.0 as a ratio. g

I've searched and read several threads re: swapping '88 or so 300sxt lsd into 240Z. There is some commentary that it would be possible to swap the 88 lsd into an earlier R200 case provided the bolt holes on the lsd unit are shimmed. Has anyone actually done it? If so, what was actually required. As you may guess I have both an '88 300sxt diferential and an R200 3:31 and I would like to marry them for the road. Any help? gw

My favorite JY has a 90 300sx N/A with manual transmission. The price is "right" for entire drop out rear suspension. But all I can see is the finned rear cover and a short snout. Is this a limited slip R230 or something else. I read somewhere that some 300sx were equipted with a "short nose R200 with viscuous limited slip" ;that they were in the 4.00 range and were the same as the 90 24zx. Any help out there? g

I was an old 16 when I bailed out of a small town and headed to college...a big one that had more students that my town had people. I was dead stone lonely in a very large impersonal crowd. A solution that worked for me was to take electives that put me in smaller classes with people: art class, theater worked. But what really did the trick was to look for part time work at the large, large, large school cafeteria. You meet people, you flirt, you examine the issues of the world, you laugh, and your learn. You'll do well. You'll make good friends,some may last you a lifetime. Mine did, I married her. z

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I hate reading posts like this as they agitate a number of my repressed personalities and undo years of group therapy. BUY THE CAR NOW. Once in your possession there are a number of things you can do...most will put purists into therapy, some might make you money (and perhaps give you a chance to see the inside of some correctional institution). Plan #1: carefully drill out all rivits, spot welds and such in the firewall. Remove it carefully and carefully remove each VIN tag. Offer entire package to the world on EBay as the necessary parts to upgrade, big time, the value of someone's 1970 or early '71 Z. The success of this ploy is entirely dependant upon the ability of the "cloner" to make factory stock spot welds. Plan #2: Take good photos of the car showing the low number, all modifications to the car and a clear close up of you (do NOT show your face) wielding a sawzall to whack the VIN out of the firwall, off the dash, and off the door sill. Write a short blurb talking about how you found this item cold stone stock and turned it into a drag car: post this with photos on every other "Z" web site you can find.... use your brother in law's name, address, and URL. Plan #3: Clean it up and do it right. Keep the V8, the roll bar and everything else that looks good.....but do it right...take your time. Show it as a very early VIN car. Personally, I think every series I Z should be "conserved" and kept on the road. Finally, I envy you a bit. I looked for three years for a Series I Z to stuff with a SBC. They are unique. I like their looks, they're light, and they are a conversation piece at any get together. Very few people have the experience of actually locating a "rare" car and seeing those numbers. z

Stick to a well known brand name (Canon, Minolta, Nikon, etc), shop for as many megapixels as you can get at the price you wish to pay. I would say at least 3.1 MP. I looked at your Canon, liked it, but chose the Minolta Xi because it was a much smaller camera. z

I got off on Vortechs and d/n note your California address. Actually, as you have a 1973 240Z with a CSB already installed, the world is yours. But dollar for dollar you are probably better off (my opinion) with a TPI and 700R4. They make great HP look good and there are no FI issues that haven't been ironed out or engineered and available on this forum or some street rodder hangout. And they are still cheap. LT1s, dressed out as a Corvette, are beeeeeeuuutiful in the Z. They sit low, will bolt into the same mounts and are dooable. If you want AC then be prepared to spend a lot of money with Chevrolet for the complete Corvette bracketry, including lower drive pulley or doing business with some good ol' boys in Mena Arkansas. If you go this route, consider shopping for a "B" body..Caprice, Buick Roadmaster, or Cadillac sedan..it's the same engine. I think the Cadillac or Roadmaster might have been treated better than the "F" bodies. Just my bias. Don't worry about iron heads unless you absolutely must have that "look" of aluminum. Iron flows quite well, thank you. Just remember that the LT1 is the end of the line for CSB. It is a bit of an orphan with some of the good things we associate with older CSB and some of the newer technology we see on the Generaltion III. The LT1 OptiSpark is a damn good idea, but flawed in execution. It sits behind the H20 pump and is very susciptable to water vapor. Chevrolet's cure came sometime before 1996. The 1996 and newer have a system of pulling filtered air from the intake, moving it through the Optispark and into the intake. If you go with an LT1 buy both the OptiSpark and H20 pump new and install while the engine is on the shop floor.l You'll be happy you did. gw gw

Depends which "Vortech" you have. The Vortechs in 1/2 ton trucks (and others) with distributor in the back and throttle body injection are pretty much interchangeable with other CSBs if you have the complete engine and accessories. The major differnences are the head and intake castings on the truck engine. Different intake bolt pattern and somewhat different accessory bracketry. If you are in California and wish to run smog legal...look for another engine: truck engines in passenger car bodies is a big no-no. It will bolt directly in as regards motor and transmission mount locations. Common block headers will also bolt down. If you are referring to the newer "Vortech" truck engines they are Generation III and are the same design as the LS1, but with cast iron block, 5.3L or 6.0L and something really small on the order of 4.7 or so. The intake manifold is very different from LS1 in that it sits about 4 inches higher, A/C mounts on the passenger side ala LS1; but the other accessories mount on the driver's side and are staggered higher with the alt on top and p/s below it. Same problem in California: truck engines in passenger cars w/l not even warrant a "look see" by the referee. The 5.3 LM7 truck engine is cheap in this neighborhood: I paid $2,000.00 with transportation, with transmission, and every harness you could imagine for a 2001 with less than 20,000 miles. The actual placement in body of LS1's is well documented in this forum. The truck engine will be similar( some difference in exhaust manifold discharge). Stock Vortech pan can be used, but it hogs ground clearance sitting about 3 inches lower than the transmission pan. Hope this helps some. gw

If you're talking "any price" go with the corvette bracket, Street & Performance pulley (extended for corvette lineup) corvette a/c (seems that only this compressor will work) and your Lt1 P/s and alt. The alt must be clocked to fit and I understand from other sites that the p/s pump will also fit, but the pressure and return line must be finnessed a bit. gw

Ross, Sound control in the cabin is THE issue for me. You might consider putting inserts into both header collectors b/4 you begin replacing mufflers. I understand the earlier 240's drone even with the stock I-6 and I would expect that heavy dampening of the roof, passenger/driver floor panels, and the back storage area would help. It made a big difference on a 444 Volvo with straight pipe I drove a few years ago. gw

I see these every now and again on street rods. The turbo is fed from the passenger side exhaust crossing under the motor and up into the passenger side header and then out the turbo exhause scroll. The intake takes a little thought. The intake manifold is divided into a pressure side (the bottom) and a non-pressure side (the top). During light throttle or any other time the turbo is not building pressure the bottom side draws fuel mixture directly from the carb through those slots you see on the floor of the carb "plenum". Those slots have flat metal strips that stay open as long as there is no pressure difference between the two chambers. When the turbo begins to build pressure on the bottom these strips are forced up and seal the top portion thereby routing fuel from the carb into the compressor and then back into the bottom as pressure. Hot air Buick Regals were similar except they lacked the valving to allow a carb to provide fuel directly to the ports w/o going through the compressor side of the turbo. The idea as to provide drivability and throttle response when the turbo wasn't spooled up. This setup was usually sized for around 5-6# boost. Newer technology might be a TB FI such as a Holley Projection in place of the carb. gw

No, I'm not shilling for this EBAY seller. His kit appears to be the "Paul" version for a Camaro. The intake is verrrry low, to allow assembly to fit under the Camaro hood. It will use a remote themostat that appears to be included in the kit. The intake volute mounted a Japanese "Weber" (I think it is a large Mikuni) or a four barrel carb. The kit looks as if it mounts the 4 barrel. A more modern adaption would be to drill the manifold for injectors and a rail. The "Weber" volute is just about the same size as the TPI throttle block (I know it's not the MAF sensor, but the unit a speed density FI system would use to meter/measure/calculate air flow). This might be more of an old timer's street rod unit: still they are effective and still have sex appeal (The What 'n ell is zat factor). gw