zgeezer

Is anyone out there considering a new Chevy Vortec I-6 (FI, 4 valve, dual OHC) swap? Any information on pan/valve cover depth or clearance under 240Z hood?

It's a good piece, but stick with a DI version rather than the earlier one with pots to tune. Holley's earlier software is not as user friendly as one might hope. It almost requires a friend riding shotgun with a laptop to tune it. The newer software may be easier to use. Brother runs one on his 426CI Windsor/Falcon. Easy to install and it doesn't shout "FI" when the hood is popped. Great sneaker or off road piece. It runs well, better gas mileage (?), smoother than a well tuned double pumper, and it keeps that tune. Nice unit and they're really cheap on the used market. Real issue for me would be price and application. If you have a good intake manifold or wish to retain a "carb" look then this is a very good option. If you are buying all new parts (manifold etcetra) then I'd look at Holley's multipoint injection. zgeezer

The 444 and 544 Volvos are dead ringers for a 3/4 scale Disney '48 Ford Tudor. The original sexy Volvo the P1800 came in sometime around 1970(?) which is a real collector's item with or w/o the Ford. Remember, old hot-rodders get this way with age and/or money.

It was a surprize to me also. My local yard owner told me that Cadillac never did produce a v-6 until he walked his own lot and saw three of them. His exchange book states that in 1981-1982, the same 4.1L v6 ran in Cadillac ElDorados, Buick Rivieras, and Oldsmobile Toronados....all front wheel drivers and all using the same basic platform. So, tomorrow, I'll dicker terms for a 4.1L and begin the process of spending time and money. I like my 350HOZ, but I'm beginning to see more high performance Z engine swaps than clean stock Z's. The hot-rodder in me crys for a more sophisticated 1948 Fordillac, which was my first transportation. I think I can build a decent 3/4 scale '48 Ford by mating a turbo 4.1L & automatic to a 444 Volvo. If that doesn't pan out, I always have my parts car Z for a decent chassis. Thanks folks. If anyone out there has played with 444/544 Volvos, please contact me.

Ray, thanks for the quick response. This morning I went out and took another look at the Cadillac. This one is a V-6 and there is one other V-6 in the yard. Both appear to be 1980-1982 (I'm relying here upon the yard's marking) and both are front wheel drive ElDorados. Both have what appears to be a quadra-jet with wires.... not a throttle body. The block, when subjected to the scratch test, reported back as a cast block, not AL. The smog decal identifies the engine as a 4.1L. This is not the v-8 that populates 'bout 20 other Cads in this lot. Frankly, while I've not really followed Cadillacs, other than the early v8s, I did not know they had ever produced or equipted their cars with a true v6 (Don't count the 4-6-8 marketing ploy). Which brings me back to both the original question and the unstated followup. Is this really a corporate slieght of hand and a rebadged Buick and if it is a rebadged Buick, is there any real performance benefit to running it. The question is of some concern to me because I've purchased the turbo carbed 1980 Buick Riviera (another front wheel driver) and would acquire the Cadillac if it's really a Buick that would accept the turbo and other performance options for the 3.8. Sorry about the long post.

quote: Originally posted by Ray: No, the Cadillac motor is a v8 and the Buick motor is an over grown 3.8 . The buick has some performance options but you would be better with a turbo 3.8 As for the Cadillac it is all alluminun and they have main bearing problems. Most of the ones you see will either have had bearings put in them or knock real bad when cold. (not a bad motor otherwise) .. By the time they made the 4.9 and then the northstar motors they had fixed this problem, They will go 200k+ easy Later Ray

Does anyone out there know if the 4.1L Buick V6 is the same engine installed as a 4.1L V6 Cadillac? Zgeezer

Rather than stroke a 351C, consider a 400M truck engine. It is a cleveland with a higher deck height and 400 ci. The 351C 4barrel carb heads will bolt right up, a four barrel 351C intake manifold will also bold up if you use the spacers that Wieand sells (sold). There're easy to fabricate as the cleveland intake is "dry". 351C ran well and the 400 can make better use of the intake ports and valves of this engine. Having said all this, the practical engine might be a stroked 351W (426cu from Coast Mustang) and aftermarket windsor aluminum heads. Light, current, and some real torque. zgeezer

quote: Originally posted by ellobo97: Just off the press!! Power trax is making a No-Slip Traction System for the r200. IT will be out ealier this year, so everyone get out there and contact them ( http://www.powertrax.com ) and show them interest so that we can get it made sooner. Approimate price is 300. Just thought I'd share the wealth. Let me know if anyone else hears stuff as well. sean Sean, let me play Cassandra for a moment. The effect of a power trax no slip is that it creates a solid lock between both axels. This is great for slow off-roading or drag cars. You get 100% torque to both wheels, right NOW. A great effect for 1/4 mile drags, but this can be a problem if you're driving in slick weather around curves. When the unit engages the rear will want to push straight ahead. This is the effect you see when flat tracking modified hit corners 1,2,3 &4. The rear end moves out and you steer with power. I am told by the off-road crowd that buys me beer that these units engage with both acceleration and deceleration. This could be hairy if you're driving the canyon at 90% and hit trailing throttle or the brakes. My personal experience with a 426ci Windsor, C6, and 9inch ford equipped with a very similar unit was great straight away traction and un-predicable handling over wet or snowy curves. The curves in question was the drive from Sacrament CA over the Sierra's to Reno. Before I put one of these into a Silver State run car, I'd have a long talk with some auto X drivers and then I'd buy the unit and take out life insurance, a lot of life insurance. ------------------

quote: Originally posted by spotfitz: Danno, The OD of the ZX rotor is 10 5/32" I have 2 brand new sitting in the garage along with the '82-'83 ZX calipers(from a yard), which is why I will have to have this offset bracket one way or another. I am going to go by that yard with the '81 tomorrow. I'm going to see if I can take off early to do it. I'll probably just pull the whole control arm off each side. I think it would be faster. I would still like to talk with someone that has done this conversion. I know about the write up on IdealZ, but who did it to there car and where did they get their brackets? That bracket looks to be the right one. I am almost tempted at this point to get the whole control arm off each side of one of these weld on Maximas and start grinding. It appears just the OD of the housing is bead welded to the bracket. I could then drill the holes for the bolt up next door to where I work. Someone else have some info?