zgeezer

Depends upon whether or not the LT1 has iron heads (which are straight plugs) or aluminum (which are angled). gw

Depends upon whether or not the LT1 has iron heads (which are straight plugs) or aluminum (which are angled). gw

Yeah, Ford lost about 3 generations of hot rodders from 1955 through 1960. In 1960, someone at Ford decided to stop the bleeding and intoduced the 360HP, 352 ci high performance FE. After my first ride in a 3 speed overdrive (remember those) Starlight (Starliner?) hard top I believed, lord yes, I BELIEVED. So many of my friends, relatives, co-workers, and students purchased these things that it was not uncommon to see 3 or four of them parked outside the weekly Rotary/ Lions clubs' breakfasts. Chevy just continued to truck on, creating an incredible supply of interchangedable parts in wrecking lots and aftermarket. CSB's will probably be built by hot rodders for the next 50 years. gw

312 Thunderbird Specials The "block" engine was durable and, by 1949 standards a well designed engine; the better design was the Chevrolet small block. Ford kept the design for light truck use (292) for many years. The 312 version was standard in all '57 T'birds and cop cars, optional in sedans. I recall four separate factory hp versions: 1.) Standard @225HP or 245PH, dual quads with Isky cam (E-2, I think), dual quads with a fatter Isky cam (E-3 or E-4) and the only real Chevy buster Ford produced until the 1960's HP FE engines, the supercharged 300HP Special. The supercharger was a unique Paxton unit and quite good looking (Not that here such a thing as an ugly Supercharger.) You can usually see one or two of these in any flock of hard core early T-Bird restorers. Are they around? Yes, I see a 312/292 in out of the way wrecking lots about twice a year... maybe. I had a 312 police intercepter in a '54 Ford station wagon. It would run heads up with power packed '56 Chevrolets and would jump '57 270's for about the first 200 feet and then all Chevrolet tail lights. Nevertheless, by '57 Chevrolet owners generally believed they had a God given right to prevail in a drag race against all Fords, all times, and anywhere they met. They were not too far away from the truth. I never admitted to the 312, it was always my dad's '54 with a four barrel. Some actually believed me. gw

Thanks folks. gw

Does anyone have a current link to ron tyler's web? I've searched all the forums and have located a link through "Datsun.com". However, I can't access Tyler through that link. Or, does anyone have the specs for his front differential mount. Pete has a photo, but I need the specs. Thanks. gw

I've the same combination in my '71. I had to remove the Datsun transmission mounts and move a section of the passenger side tunnel (about the size of a #10 food can lid) out about 1/2 inch. It provides clearance for that large cylinder that protrudes out the passenger side of the 4l60E. I cut an "X" moved out the side and rewelded. A BFH will work as well. gw

I just stumbled upon a japanese issue '92 or so Fairlady with right hand drive. I think it's a '92, but it does have four wheel steering. All that is left is the rear end with CV joints and axels and the power steering unit. This is in a pick apart in California and I was quoted $150.00 for the rear end and $75.00 for the power steering unit. The rear end carrier appears to be aluminum... it is a LSD. Is this about market for these units? Is anyone out there interested in this unit. I'm in Northern California and will be cruising over to Smith Valley, Nevada tomorrow. If anyone is interested in grabbing this LSD drop me a line tonight. gw

For what's it worth, yesterday a couple of kids I know purchased a wrecking lot 72 240 (complete) and proceded to swap parts from a bent 77 280Z. They asked me if they could swap their new 280 dash into the 240. I told them that the mounting brackets were different and suggested they sell the 280 on EBay. This evening I stopped by the chat and the 280 dash was nicely and cleanly mounted into the 240. According to them, the mounting brackets are spaced correctly, but the 280 dash needed to be "pushed" a bit to fit. It was in there, looked good and used the 280 "valance" cover between the dash and the windshield. My credibility took a big hit. Try it it might work.(The kids deleted the heater and are not using any a/c heat controls.) gw

I pulled my 3.31 out of a manual 4 speed 2+2 that I thought was a '77. I'm not really sharp on differences of year models, but 3.31's were standard in some year(s?) 280's. gw

Mike, do you have any internet sites that might be more specific relating to the motor. I use google.com and havn't had a hit on any combination that refers to engine specifications. Lots of sites showing off their Anniversary z-28 with 350 engines. I thought it was only a cosmetic option. gw

Tomahawk Z Ray's post stated that the article came out in 1997, he didn't a month. He seemed to think the article was a 'how to do it" reprisal of a 300 ci 30th anniversary Z-28 that chevrolet had put together. I've never heard of the car, but I assume it is a one off show or concept car. He was sure that the article came out just before Chevrolet released the LS-1. Hot Rod used to sell their old articles off the internet, but they ran into copyright problems and pulled the site. gw

Thanks for all the input. I'll go with the aluminum heads and dress it out as an LT1'Vette. Slanted plugs require another header, but I like the looks and they do save at least 50# off the front end. This leaves me with another salvage lt1 minus a good crank. Sooo I'm shopping for a rotating assembly.....cheap of course. GW

Sorry folks, I posted much the same question last month. I've not been able to locate the Chevy Hi Performance Magazine article describing the swap. If anyone out there has any particulars or a copy of the article, I'd sure pay something more than copy costs and postage to have it. gw

After my Z car installation, [sometime in the next millenium] I'll have a sound 350 LT1 block, a set or iron or aluminum lt1 heads, and a 5sp manual something out of a late '80s Camaro. I think I could mix and match LT1 parts for a strong 300ci. Are the little lt1 (265 ci)crank and rods readily run in the 350 block? If so are there balance problems? I note that the wrist pin location for both the 265/350 appears to be the same. The 265 PM rod is longer to make up the difference in stroke. (Something new for Chevrolet). One of my lying partners has an early AH Sprite body that would be a candidate for something new. gw

Thanks for the information. The only reason I'm going (considering) the ZZ3 is availablity. It's been taking up space in my garage for about 5 years. I have access to a large lathe, so the machine work is not a problem. However, which ever cam I use must be compatible with the cpu and automatic transmission. It's a '96 so I have on board diagnostics version II to deal with. gw

Does anyone have any information comparing the lt1 iron and aluminum heads for performance potential. Several Lt1 Impala sites state that the iron (vortec design-straight plug) out flow the aluminum lt1 ('92 Corvette, F body, excluding Lt4) by a substantial amount. My knee jerk is that the aluminum lt1 must be a better performance head. After all they put them on Corvettes..... right? Any help is welcome. I've both and should decide soon. The cam is a ZZ3 roller out of an early aluminum headed chevy crate engine: the smog legal 350 replacement for middle 80s Camaros. gw

I'm running the 4L60e transmission and need some help on which electronic speedometers seem to fit and work best in a 70240Z dash. I'm looking for something that will fit in with the rest of the Datsun gauges. The idea is to look as stock as possible. I will use the stock '96 LT1 engine managment module (Computer?). A search pulled down several threads re: white gauges, some speedo info, but nothing re: matching tach. Thanks in advance folks.

Cast aluminum headers? Yeah, I think Pontiac provided a set with some of their super duty 389/421 in 1961 or thereabouts. The heads, cam, intake manifold, and aluminum exhaust manifolds all came packed in the trunk. I've seen them on the bench, but never actually installed. I wonder if there are any hard core Pontiac muscle car preservationists out there that might actually have a set.

Ohhh, I love this. Ever since I saw a new Toronado with 455 ci up front, another 455 ci in the trunk, and smoking at both ends, I figured sometime some crazy would build something with these engines that would drive all of our insurance rates up by a factor of 10 and outlaw the sport forever. Here's my vote. Last year at Hot August Nights in Reno I'd reached my barf threshold for perfect generic 350s in generic 32s with generic 700R4 and went windo shopping at Summit's Sparks warehouse. There is was. An early swing axel Corvair coupe.....gutted with a 500ci Cadillac ElDo in the back. Air to engine by clothes dryer vent line running from carb over to driver's side quarter window. No window, holed filled with masonite and a sewer line house stack roof fitting as ram. No box surrounding engine. Exhaust pipe bent and cut to run h20 forward through front bulkhead into a large Ford like radiator. Front part of Corvair cut out in large rectangle to match radiator. Air flow carefully controlled by unlatching back of hood and securing it by a six inch dog leash cable. The swing axels were direct: cut off Cadillac and Corvair in the middle, join them with large pipe sleeve of some sort and then weld, use a LOT of weld. The mufflers were two large two chamber flfowmasters hanging with wire....looked like coat hanger, but might have been baling wire. The interior sprayed with Zolotone: my favorite color. No roll structure at all, but the seats, and there were two of them (mygod somebody actually would ride in this thing) were and I cannot kid about this constructed of expanded metal and welded to the floor panel. They looked like high end K mart specials. The tires were 14 inch 4 holers mounting some rather wide rubbber. And yes, they were baaaaald. You know that weekend I saw about 1,000 really nice cars, but the only one I can remember is this one. I wonder what this thing would do for a 60' time. gw

As allways, thanks for the replies. I've researched the magazine article, reviewed the stroker site and will be working on either a 302ci or 383 ci. Common sense and wretched excess dictate a 383, but, then, show me a gearhead with common sense. Along that line, it appears that early intake manifolds, including the Edelbrock Performer require only minor drilling of additional bolt holes to bolt to the LT1 heads. The benefit to this is the ability to run an LT1 with a rear mounted distributer and any older Gen 1 intake manifolds. I haven't checked the older 270 hp dual quad intake, but it may end up bolted on to my LT1 and run "dry". Hey, maybe I can run a dummy h20 hose from the manifold to the radiator and tell all sorts of stories to the rice for lunch bunch. gw

I have two salvage LT1s: one is 5.7/ aluminum heads and eight (yeah, I said eight) spun rod bearings. The crank is trash; the block is good. The other is a 4.7 (265ci) with an excellent crank and rods. Boy, are they ever looong. Can I simply run the 4.7 crank and rods with the 350 pistons for about 327 ci. Are there balance problems? The local machine shop tells me that no LT1 rod can be resized or re-balanced because there is no "boss" on either end to allow metal to be removed in balancing. Is there any merit to this or should I be shopping for a new machinist? Finally, if I can't use the 4.7 crank and rods, who sells a 383 or so stroker for LT1s. How are LT1 stroker kits balanced: internally, externally? Finally, I have a chevy roller cam shaft purloined out of an early 345hp (zz3, I think) crate engine. The one with aluminum heads that was sold as a smog legal exchange for middle '80s Camaros. It appears that this piece with minor adjustments to the snout and pin would fit in an LT1. Is this a workable cam swap or should I just bite the bullet and go after market. I really would like to use stuff still hanging off my garage rafters. gw

I did a 700R4 into my early 71 Z. I carefully measured and marked where the servo touched the tunnel. With a drill and sawzall drilled and cut a veerrrry large X. Using a small rather delicate ball peen hammer I moved about six inches of the tunnel side out and then re-welded. This took about4 hours to do, counting set up. I'm doing it again for my 4l60E and I'll follow jeromio's advise. I like the zen approach and it's a lot cheaper than group therapy. By the way, there are substantial differences between early the 240Z and the 280Z. I think there must have been additional smog and maybe a catalyst in the Z. You still have to bang, but not as much on a 280. gw

I'm putting a complete FI Lt1 with auto into my 71 Z. The plan is to run stock as much as possible, including meeting all CA smog if put to the test. [i know '71 d/n have to submit to smog examination/test to register, but I want to be able to pass CA sniffer test if necessay.] All the vapor canister/fuel tank lines will stay intact....not cuts in tank to install a sump or in tank fuel pump. The plan is to run stock lines into a surge tank located in engine compartment or somewhere under the hood. I've considered fabricating a wierd shape to fit under the battery tray and then to use a smaller sealed battery. Any one mount one inside a passenger wheel well? Those of you who used surge tanks, give me a little direction as to location. gw

Thanks a lot for the posts. I still flinch at the idea of running something close to 11:1 on gas on the street. Mark, you must be running well on the other side of 11:1 b/c the LT4 heads were nominally 10.8:1. I'll go down to my Chevy agency Tuesday buy a set. GW