zeiss150
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Posts posted by zeiss150
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no ask kicking NeedforZ:redface: nothing but love for the z community but... you could have just typed $500 (for example) instead of search. but no worries.
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Well if your just gonna drop it in without rebuilding it I would go over the basics. compression, spark and fuel. But, if you're gonna rebuild it then it doesn't really matter what's wrong with it as long as it has all of its parts. If its an 83 then its gonna have a P90a head wich has hydrolic lifters. Thoes can be a bit of a problem if they are broken, well not so much broken but not working right. There are way's to repair the lifters but you cant buy new parts for them. make sure the distributor is there... its a special dizzy with crank angle sensor... you'll need it... get the computer, even if your gonna replace it with an after market computer. If you want A/C well grab that stuff too. don't for get the coil, and if its a manual trans grab that too. If its an auto trans that will probably be better for the state of the engine. there should be an oil cooler. I think thats it. As far as the turbo check if there is any oil running down the down pipe. You wont really know it the trubo need rebuilding untill you take it off and check for "cokeing" (burnt oil in the oil lines ) and also you need to check end play in the turbine. I hope that answered your questions.
Oh and I only mentioned the Carbs because you can only get over 200 horse power with them on a N/A engine ... but you're right ... they didn't make a carb'ed turbo.
Good luck.
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hey How much are the Arazona pistons? and do they come in 20,40,60 thousandths over bore. Also do they come with rings? Does the better rod/ stroke raito give you a higher redline or does it just alow you to rev faster?
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A N/A engine with give you about 180 RWHP and thats with a header and exaust and cam and electronic ignition and SU carbs and a bunch of other stuff. If you want over 200 RWHP on a N/A engine then you will need some serious head, intake, exaust and a super high compression ratio. Not cheep not easy. for anything over 200 WHP turbo is the way to go. With only a few inexpensive (reletively) mods you can get up to 300 WHP I think if you just raise the stock boost from 7 to 12 psi you can get a turbo to 220whp with out any mods. How do I know ... cause I have a N/A L28 with good mods on it and it only get 180 (guessing) WHP. anyone that I've ever seen post over that on a N/A is running tripples (carborators) and has had a bunch of head and intake work. 180 RWHP sure... 300RWHP ....no way not on a N/A.
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I have the MSA header and I am still using my stock heat shield. It bolts to the intake manifold. I have the E88 intake manifold, it has 2 screws that hold the stock heat sheild on. I thought they all worked that way unless it was fuel injection. did you switch from FI to carbs? and even if you did the intake should have the mounting holes. If you lost the heat shield then maybe a 16 gauge sheet of aluminum with some mounting points for the springs on it. Or call up Z therapy and see if they have one. or scan ebay (I just did they dont have any right now ... just wait)
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thanks for the info guys!
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Hey guys what does the DE stand for in RB26DET
and what does the RB stand for
I'm just wondering cause it's on all the new nissan engines i.e. vg30de/VQ35de
At least I know what the T stands for. timeing right? JUST KIDDING! turbo.
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any time ... any question ... thats why I post here. I would rather answer new peoples question than have them use the search. Most of the Z people here want to help out, so, keep the faith!
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OOOOOh my bad! I thought you were keeping the 240 body and tranplanting the Z32 engine. thanks for clearing that up. wow you sold the 240 and got the 300zx really fast... the guys here were still fighting over weather or not you should do it and you didn't even have the car any more... AWESOME! Good luck with your Z32.
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that was SICK! Hey did anyone go to the West Coast Nationals? I missed it I had to work:(.
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super funny. Hoov100 ditch'd this idea about 20 posts ago. good times Z people ... nothin like ego's to keep a post going
. Thats pretty cool that you're going with the Z31(vg30?) motor are you gonna turbo that? And how much fabrication is needed to put that into your 240? Keep us posted!
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I had that same problem I think the ll:25 is B.S. I'm running 15 degrees right now and it's a fun N/A Z to drive.
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with flat top pistons 20thousands over bore and a 1mm head gasket with a P79 head that will give you a nice compression raito of 8.8:1. Put on a header and 2.5in. exaust. Add a 60mm throttle body use a little better ignition, larger fuel injectors and a better engine computer and you'll have real nice 170 t0 180 rear wheel horse power engine.
As far as the cost...
short block rebuild ... 20thou over bore new pistons and rings $300
gasket and seal kit $100
valve stem seals/ clean up your head $100
60mm throttle body $35 at the junk yard (you get one from a 240SX)
megasquirt $300
header and exaust $200
larger injectors $75
now you could go the less expensive rout and and that would be
new rings and bearings $150
gasket set $50
60mm tb $35
or just check the compression in each cylinder (150 psi I think) as long as there all with in a few psi of eachother just leave the short block alone. spend your money on the exaust and throttle body and cold air induction and a better ignition. It just depend on how much money you have to spend. There are about a million different ways to build a Z engine.
Good luck let me know if you have any other questions
P.S. the prices are just my best guess on how much I paid a few years ago.
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If you don't have much mechanical experiance the you should just do a rebuild. A swap requires a lot of fabrication. Unless you know how to weld... An L28 is a pretty easy engine to rebuild. there is a book called "how to rebuild your nissan OHC engine" and its great. It has step by step pictures and instructions, its hard to mess it up. before you start read, read, read, ask questions and go slow and you will make a kick a$$ L28. Good luck.
P.S. there is a lot of help on this site that can get you some more horse power for pretty cheap.
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can't you by "performance springs" from MSA that you put in a standard oil pump that increase the pressure? I remember reading a thread about a guy that put the springs in and he was getting 90 psi at hot idel so he put back one of the standard springs and left one of the heavyer springs and presto change'o he had perfect oil pressure. Isn't the standard oil pump made out of aluminum? and wouldn't that be better for heat than a cast iron one?
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the turbo itself has no computerized parts so if you're just adding the turbo then no... and even if you go with fuel injection (which I would Highly recomend!) the don't worry about the crappy turbo harnes ... just add the wireing for the new engine managment. If you read the book by Corky Bell, "Maximum boost" he has a section talking about carborated turbo engines and the problems that you can have with them. He also say's that he wouldn't recomend that set up. If you live in a cold area with a carborated turbo engine... good luck in getting it started. the kind of engine managment needed to get the most out of a turbo setup without blowing up the engine, NEEDS fuel injection with after market engine managment i.e. megasquirt, haltech. If you're gonna build a 3.2L turbo I would do a lot of research. Good Luck
P.S. Corky's book has a picture of a tripple makuni blow through turbo nissian L28. Seems like the worst kind of turbo set up to me ... that just my uneducated 2 cents.
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How about i just answer the damn question. I get so sick of seeing people putting SEARCH, SEARCH, SEARCH. If you don't want to answer the question ... DON'T! Hartspank was probably just looking for some interaction with other Z car people... there... I feel better.
In order to use the 2+2 clutch you need the 2+2 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, and throw out bearing COLLAR. The 2+2 clutch combo has 700+lbs of pressure and the regular is 500+lbs. Its a great easy upgrade if you are putting down some pretty good HP (250 and up). Not only is the pressure plate a few hundred pounds heaver but the flywheel and clutch have a larger surface area. You have to use the entire clutch setup you cant just upgrade the pressure plate or just the clutch, and you cant forget the throw out bearing collar becuause if you use the non 2+2 then the clutch wont engage all the way (or is it that it wont disengage all the way.... whatever).
Sorry for the snobish attitudes around here... but the most of the people on this site are really helpful.
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maybe he ment 26 mpg ... the 3 is right next to the 2 on the key board! and if Silent was getting 36 mpg on his SU's ... DUDE LET ME KNOW HOW!!!!! cause I get about 20 on my L28.
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If I remember right there is one on the back of the block under the flywheel. Its been years since I rebuilt my engine though. good luck!
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first things first ... SPARK.... FUEL.... Compression If any one of those are missing then no vroooooom
Start with spark thats the easiest just have someone turn over the car with one of the plugs out of the head and about an inch from the block and see if there is a spark.
Then Fuel take off your fule line and see if it squirts fule when you turn over the car. You can also see if fuel is getting to the cylinders if when you pull the spark plug it is wet and smells like gas.
Then Compression ... I highly doubt that this is the problem but you never know.
If all of those are working right ... you should get vroooooom .... good luck
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I have the engine that you guys are talking about. I built a N/A L28 with carbs. I use it as an everyday driver and its never let me down 3 years and counting. here is my setup...
L28 flat top pistons with 20 thou overbore
N42 head with schnider cam 460 lift 270 duration with performance springs
2mm hks head gasket
SU carbs with SM needles
MSA header 6-2-1
2.5 inch exaust
82 N/A electric E-80 module dizzy (rebuilt) and coil
ZX 60 amp Altinator
ballanced rotating mass
I have never had it dyno'ed but it's a quick fun car to drive. I would guess that it has somewhere around 170-180 WHP but I've read other guys with the same setup that dyno at 160. It has 9.2:1 CR and I run it with 15 degrees of advance. I can tell you that with all the rain in cali the past few months I've gotten really good at controlling the throttel responce just a little to much and the tires spine. its a jack rabbit of a car. With all of that said I would probably build it a little different if I was doing it again. I think I would go with a P90 head (or maybe a P79 N/A cam and it suposedly flows just as good, easy to find too) and a 1mm head gasket and a 60 thousands overbore that would give you a CR of 9:1, very pump gas friendly and pretty powerfull N/A engine with no chance of detonation. If you wanted to go FI with MS and a 60 or even 70mm throttle body that would probably be really fun too. The problem with any of the engines you build you will always think ... what if ?..... I think Im gonna keep my N/A Z and build a different turbo Z. Then I can go natural or turbo when ever the mood hits me. One more thing about the SU's vs. Makunis or webbers ... If you don't know anything about carbs (like me) the SU's are totally the way to go. Ztherapy has DVD's about how to strip, rebuild, and tune them. And they tune easy and they stay in tune! Well there's my 2 cents ... enjoy!
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Your tranny seem like a good place to look ... On my Z (5 speed manual tranny) in 5th gear at 3500 RPM I'd be at 80mph (I don't know the KPH) If your driving around in 2nd gear that would drop your Kpg.
Good luck!
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Ok Clifton, so the stock t3 is good for about 270rwhp. which would translate to 15psi on a stock T3 with a P90 head on stock short block(7.4:1 CR)? does that change with better mods... i.e. 420cc injectors, 60mm TB, 3in down tube and exaust, megasquirt, flat top pistons CR 8.6:1. Do those mods get you any more power out of the T3 or are you just hitting a wall with the old T3?
By the way, Thanks for all your help, I hope this isn't boring for you.
P.S. what kind of HP does that sweeeeeeeet Z in your signature put down.
Thanks again!
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so its better to build a slightly higher CR engine so you don't have to use as much boost to get hight HP. As long as you can controll detonation then a higher CR build is better .... right?
With an L28 with a CR of 8.6:1 with a stock P90 head and stock T3(and good IC) could 10 or 12lbs of boost get the engine in the 300 + RWHP range (also stand alone engine managment). or is that pushing the T3 and engine to far?
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What does this stand for?
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted