zeiss150
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Posts posted by zeiss150
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of course offence was intended but that was you guys do on this site. Thanks "Dr. a$$hole" oh .... no offence intended. hey wait, DR. did I Spell a$$ wrong or just the hole part.
rock on Z people
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Ok ... I did a search for my question and found nothing. So either my seachering skills suck or no one has addressed this question.
Which late model cars have turbos that can be used on an L28 turbo swap to gain more HP. for example, will a volvo work ... how about a saab ... a 300zx... a __________ (fill in the blank). The reason for my question is I want to go to the bone yard and find some good hp for "cheap".
there seem to be a million posts about different fuel injectors from old cars but no old turbos?
One last thing what size is the stock turbo on an 83 l28 turbo?
Thanks to anyone that can help.
Rock on Z people
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does anyone have any experiance with using a NA cam on a turbo motor? I was thining about using a schinder .460 lift 270 duration cam on a turbo motor (about 107 degrees of overlap) Any oppinions?
Rock on Z people!
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Great Question!!!!! If I had five grand I'd put it in to the paint and body work! .. I know thats not the answer that you were looking for but you said that you would consider all answers. A stock L28 with a good cam and dual SU's can put out some pretty good RWHP. I'd spend the rest of the $ on the looks of the Z. Call me vain but most Z's look like $hit (including mine, for now that is). I think I would rather have a "quick" and beautiful Z and a balls out "sleeper". BTW I'm thinking about going turbo, but not untill I make mine beautiful. Just my 2 sence.
Rock on Z people!
P.S. 72 with F54 ballanced internals, n-42 with schnider valve train and cam 460.lift 270.duration, dual SU's , 2mm steel head gasket, 6-2 headers 2 1/2 inch exaust. with 82 zx disszy all for about 1,000! I know people
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Hey when you bend the valves cant you mess up the valve stem guides too!! also setting your valves to .025 thou intake .030thou exaust is way to loose ... they should be at .010 intake and .012 exause HOT! some people even use 8 and 10. Sound like you're about to put a silver bullet in the block of this L6 (really the only way to kill an L6 engine) sorry you're haveing a bad time of it. I hope my 2 cents helps.
Rock on Z people
Matt-
P.S. Or maybe you should put a silver bullet in your engine builder instead!
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which head are you going to use and (P90?) and what will your C:R be? why did you pick the HKS 2mm head gasket. Also why did you get the schnider 460 270 cam. How much boost are you going to be running? just wondering.
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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Hey people! Does anyone have any good tips on setting up a cam, what I mean by that is what is the best way to set the clearance on the cam lobes and rocker arms i.e. spark plugs in or out turning the cam by hand or using the starter hot or cold, how to find the point where the lobes are "up". Right now i have them set to 10 intake 12 exaust. I'm running the schnider 460 273 cam with springs and new nissan rocker arms. I think my valve lash isnt set right because my idel seems a little rich but only some times, it will idel really rough sometimes but once i hit the gas its smooth as silk so I don't think its a carb problem. Schnider says that the valves should be set to 8 in 10 ex "hot" doesn't this sound way to tight ... Any info would be great!
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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sounds like its time for that turbo build you've been dreaming about!
Good luck
Rock on Z people!
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Nsadhal, Let me be the first one to tell you whats going on here. Your rocker arm slid off of the valve springs. now you may have a pretty serious problem here. the only way the rocker arm can escape like that is if one of two things has happened ...
1. If you "pop" a valve seat and it keeps the valve from re-seating that would hold the valve spring down and alow enough play for the cocker arm to "jump off" If this is the case the you would have to pull the head and replace the valve, the valve seat, and posibley the valve guide. also If the valve was hanging down low enough the it could make contact with the piston and that would be really bad! You'll know if it did because you'll have a big valve shaped mark on the top of the piston. You should be able to tell if this is the problem by compairing the hight of the valve spring without the rocker arm to another valve spring that doesn have a rocker arm but WITH NO TENTION ON THE ROCKER ARM (i.e. the cam lobe would be facing up). If they ARE the same hight then you dodged a bullet and this is not your problem.
2. This is the most likely sinerio... the rocker arms are held in place with a "lock nut" that is just above the rocker arm height adjusting nut If this lock nut comes loose and the adjusting nut spins down and becomes loose then your rocker arm can pop off. By looking at your picture your came lobe suffered no damage and the rocker arm shim (the little piece in your blue rag) also doesn't seem to have any damage, as long as the rocker arm isnt damaged then all you need to do is put them back together and re-adjust the rocker arm hight (intake 10mm exaust 12mm HOT)... in order to get the rocker arm back in place youll need to use a long screwdriver or something long and hard to pry it back in place ... just be carefull not to scratch the cam lobes or rocker arm hardend surface.
If its # 2 its and Easy fix...
If its #1 ... you might need a new engine (doubtfull but worst case sinerio) at the least not a fun problem to have.
Good luck and if you have any questions let me know ...
P.S. #1 happend to me
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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The toyota break price is about $100 bucks for just the breaks. If you change out your lines and stuff it gets more expensive. I think I spent about $250 total after stainless breaklines, turned roters, new seals. I bought a set of used toyota calipers from a truck junk yard $50 for both. then I rebuilt them for $25 and new pads for another $25. So it was $100 for the breaks. but its still one of the easyest and cheepest mods you can do. and when I did my mod a few years ago the price that I got from NAPA for loaded 83 toyota 4x4 front calipers was $50 each + core. Maybe the price went up since I did it two years ago? But the junk yard price should still be the same.
I just called the Auto Zone for a price $34.95 for each side (no break pads) + 35.00 core. So if you can get away with trading in your old Z cores its about $50 a side with pads. Come on NAPA don't let auto Zone beat you like that!
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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anyone got cam info for turbos?
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Hey Z people
What is the highest CR that a turbo engine can have? mind you im not tring to build a monster turbo just a moderate 250 RWHP. I'm looking to build a turbo with between 8.07:1 and 8.6:1. it would be an F54 short block with flat top pistons and a P90 head. Has anyone ever done this or heard of this.
Question #2 ... Are performance cams a good idea on turbo motors? I have a schnider 460 lift 273 duration cam setup... would the Turbo ECU freek out?
Thanks for the info.
Rock on Z People
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Bastaad, I have the 6 spoke wheels they should work the same as the Iron cross wheels. If you don't have a way to cut the dust plate just take it off, two screws and its off. All it does is keep your wheels cleaner a little longer. BTW a simple hack saw would cut the plate too. You need to replace the hard line because the caliper is bigger and the old one wont fit the way its bent. Just don't kink it when you bend it ( i used a broom handel for the bends). Other than thoes 2 things they just bolt right up. Good luck man. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Rock on Z people!
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Hey Bastaad, the toyota break upgrade is the easyest mod you can do on a Z. all you need is toyota 4x4 1982 - 1984 calipers. the company that made the toyota breaks made the breaks for the 240Z and they just used the same exact design as the 240 but a little bigger and 4 piston. they litterally just bolt right up to the 240! The only "mod" is that pesky dust plate... I just used a sawzall and it cut through that plate like butter. a good tip would be to replace your break lines (braided stainless if you have the $100) you will also need new hard lines but thoes are like $5 for both sides, I just got 2 straight hard lines and bent them myself. Don't forget to turn your rotors, makes for a nice smooth stop. huge stopping power with the new breaks, think about it thoes breaks are suposed to stop a 4000lb truck. If you wanna get crazy with the break job you can get new vented rotors from MSA for about $85 a side. After I did mine I couldn't believe how great my Z could stop. check out this site for more info.
www.zcarcreations.com/howto/caliperpage.htm
the site mentions something about a 1/8" spacer needed to clear the rims I have stock 82 zx rims on my z and I didn't need a spacer.
One more thing did you have to change the gas tank out of your 240 for your turbo engine? I've heard that the 240 tanks dont have "baffels" because they're not ment for FI. Any thoughts?
Rock on Z people!
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Bastaad, Your eninge is EXACTLY what im looking for. I want an everyday driver that can smoke a G35 or most production "sports cars" I also want porche and vett owners to learn a little more respect. But I don't what some monster scarry fast 490 rwhp twin turbo death trap. I just want a moderate turbo that gives me an easy 230 - 250 RWHP. And your build sounds perfect. What body do you have 240 or 280? if its a 240 did you swap out the gas tank? I also have the 3:54 but its an R180 with the 280z 5 speed. As for your breaks, do the toyota 4x4 truck swap... cheep, easy, and your call will stop on a dime... mine does. I think napa sells the toyota calipers with pads for $50 each. The only mod nessary with the break swap is to trim the dust plate (or just take it off). Let me know if you have any questions on that.
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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I put mine back in
Rock on Z people
Matt-
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thanks for the info Bastaad, What is an RRFPR , also what is a BOV boost controller and what kind of intercooler are you using. Are you running the T5 with the 4.90 rearend. what kind of 0-60 times are you getting are you getting? I totally jonesing for a turbo build up now... damn that horse power drug!
Rock on Z people!
Matt-
P.S. I have the Just S.Us dvd from Z therapy, and I pretty much checked all the other stuff you said so timming is the onlyl thing left... I hope!
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DAMN bastaad 525, I need your engine... I also have the engine run-on and I think im running 12 degrees advance timing. I'll try the 8 degrees...
How much did it cost you to build up your turbo? did you use a stock ZX turbo setup and if so what kind of mods did you do to it (cause there's no way you left it stock .... it's not in our nature). I'm thinking about putting a turbo in my 240... I like my engine but I want that 300+ ft/LB of the magical torque:twisted:.
rock on Z people!
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yes stock timing seems to work great .... if you want to know if your two far advanced just put it in 5th at 20mph and floor it ... if it pings ... retard it... if not ... advance it till it does ping, then back it off till it doesn't thats your best timing about 12degrees I think
Rock on Z people!~
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I have that same exact build up! I had my F54 block bord over .20thou. I calculated my comression ratio at about 9.92:1 so I used an HKS head gasket its a 2mm head gasket that reduces my CR to 9.2:1 so I can use 91 oct. The F54 block is stronger but it wont make a difference on a NA engine ... it is a good Idea for turbo or 3.1 stroker engines but I don't think it would make any kind of difference on a NA engine. most important ballance your rotating mass. crank, rods, pistons, rings, flywheel, clutch plate, belt pully. It cost a little bit of money but it makes for a smooth high reving engine ... mine reves up to 7K easy, and Im running SU's. I still haven't dynoed the engine so I have no idea what the RWHP is but I did smoke a 2002 camero SS ... I think I scarred him when I "cherped" my tires in second gear:twisted:. Good luck with your build up and let me know if you have any questions.
Rock on Z People
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If your back three arn't getting fuel, check the nozzel on your rear carb to see if its cloged. That happend to me once ... I bought an "SU" carb rebuild kit and it came with fuel lines that go from the float bowl to the nozzel. Well they would have worked great if it would have been fuel line... It was some kind of stupid wind sheild wiper line the gas totally disinegrated the inside of the line and pluged up the nozzel. I don't know if that will help but thats where I would check.
Rock on Z people!
72 240, L28 F54 flat top N-42 head with schnider cam 273 460 72 SU'swith SM needels, MSA Header 21/2 inch exaust, 82 zx dizzy, 78 5 speed ... RWHP I don't know ... but it sure is fun to drive:twisted:
turbo questions (I know you're all excited)
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Thanks basstad, as always you rock. A follow up question... is a Z31 a chevy?
Thanks again.