zeiss150
-
Posts
405 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by zeiss150
-
-
I think you're right the Chrysler color is the closest to Nissan blue. I went with a black block. I just used engine paint ... maybe duplicolor? I don't remember it was 3 years ago that I painted it. Its still very black... good paint I guess.
Matt-
-
So I noticed that my 72 240 is riding a little low on the rear left side and it has started making a "crack" noise when I accelerate. I know that its not my differential mount because i replaced that a few years ago, also, the "crack" sound is coming from the rear left side so its not the differential... right?
I took the rear left tire off today to take a look and it seems that the tire has been wearing on the outside edge so I'm guessing that the shock is not holding the wheel to the road.
But where is the "crack" sound coming from.
I have no idea how old the shocks are that are on my z. I have no info from the previous owner. If I push on the back end of the car it does go down and then pops right back up but if you look at the car from a distance the left side does sit a little lower.
What do you guys think?
Thanks Matt-
-
I don't think I could run 50 series tires on stock suspension... It would look ... dumb.
I might be able to get away with 225/60 R14 on stock suspension. I don't know though.
If anyone has a picture of that size tire on STOCK suspension, I'd love to see it.
Matt-
-
Hey John, thanks for the reply. I have a question about the limitations of my stock 14" rims. How wide of a tire can I run on them... will they take a 225? right now I have a 205 on them. I think they are only 7" wide but I'm not sure... If you look at the picture below (the orange Z) thats the rims I'm going to use. Will they hold 225's?
Thanks for your time and info.
Matt-
-
Thanks John... I take it that the tokico hps shocks or kyb are a performance upgrade from the original nissan suspension?
-
Monster truck Z .... OOOOOHHHH NOOOOOOOOO. So the stock springs are to stiff for the performance shocks? Or is it that the shocks are to "strong" for the springs? So what springs have the smallest drop? and what shocks should I put with those springs.
Matt-
-
With the stock 14" ZX rims I don't think I would like the look of the z. I didn't think you could still get stock springs... last time I check with motorsport they said that there was only new old stock and those springs would be 30+ years old. All the other springs that they had were 1.5 " lower than stock.
I guess I'm pretty much looking to do Jmotensens "Stage 2" suspension upgrade ... just with out the lowering springs.
Bad idea?
If I go with the stock springs ... how do you tell if they're bad?
Also does anyone have a "stage 2" setup with 1.5 inch lower springs and stock 14" zx rims... if so... got any pictures?
Thanks again.
Matt-
-
Hey there Z people! So I first things first ... I'VE SEARCHED. seriously... I've tried searching stock struts, or stock shocks, or stock suspension, and a bunch of other stuff but all that comes up is, "I'm getting rid if my stock suspension..." and a bunch of "stock" and suspension" but nothing about what I'm looking for.
Here is what I'm looking to do. I wanted to replace the struts but leave the springs, (side bar ... I want to keep the stock springs because I don't want to lower my Z) So I was hoping to just replace the shocks and struts and keep my stock springs. I'm not looking to make my Z into a racer... I just want a nice ride that handles a little better than stock. I will also be replacing the ball joints and tie rods at the same time. I've also replaced all the bushings with urathane
What kind of shocks should I get?
If you can't tell, I don't know shizer about suspension ... and I'm ok with that... I just want some basic advice on what to do here.
Thanks in advance!
Matt-
-
Hey Z people ... let me start by saying, I'VE SEARCHED!!! now, moving on.
I have stock 14" rims that I really want to keep but I want to get some Quality tires that can handle 300 RWHP. Is there even such a tire? If so, who makes it and how much does it cost?
Before I get people telling me that I must get 17" rims or 15" rims ... DON'T. I want to keep the stock rims. I just fear that there is no 14 inch tires that can handle that kind of RWHP.
Right now I'm running some crappy "american discount tire store" tire. They break loose with my 170 RWHP N/A engine. They are 205 70 R14's.
I know that most of the low profile tires are really good for cornering and handling but I just can't part with the stock look of my Z. So do they make a "stiff" side wall tire that is soft enough to hold traction at 300 RWHP? Just in case you are wondering, the 300 RWHP is an estimate For the L28 turbo that I'm building.
Opinions please
Matt-
-
Sorry guys! I don't know why my pictures aren't showing up in the thread. I know the links are there but I was hoping that the photos would show up.
anyone know why this is happening?
I'll work on puting up pictures of the engine bay!
As for the marker lights ... I couldn't remember which way they went on (stupid)... So I'll have to fix that haha!
Thanks, Matt-
-
Hey Z people! I haven't been on this forum for a long time. I've been working on my motorcycle project (1978 KZ650 cafe racer) now that I'm close to wrapping that up I thought I would get back into my Z.
Here's a little history on my Z... I bought this Z about 7 years ago from some guy that had a huge piece of property with a bunch of wrecked cars on it. It was a giant dirt lot with a small 1971 240Z sitting in it. The driver side window had been broken about a year before I bought it and there was about an inch of dirt in the car. But I picked it up for $550.
It was a train wreck! The PO had changed out the rear springs for some huge springs that raised up the car about 3 inches.... LAME. The engine was shot the electrical was toast, the body was pathetic, the interior was a joke, but I could see the potential.
I scaveged the junk yards and got an F54 L28 block with an N42 head 5 speed trans (it took 3 of them to find a good one) new rear end suspention. new seats (miata), and countless other parts that I needed.
It runs awesome now... and looks even better (well I think it does). I did everything myself from the body work (welding included) to the engine rebuild, to the SU rebuild.
The only things I still need to do on it is put in a headliner (just lazy on that one) and put in a carpet kit. Once I have those to things done I will move on to STAGE II!!!!!
Stage II = TURBO CHARGING. I already have my P90 head (fully rebuilt), ford EDIS 6 with chrystler coil pack, 240SX throttle body, 440cc fuel injectors, fuel injection intake manifold, Stock exaust maifold, and fully rebuild Z31 T3 turbo. Stuff I still need... Megasquirt, fuel pump, new fuel lines, fuel rail, intercooler, exaust down pipe, blow off valve... I things thats it.
SOOOOOOO This is what she looks like as of last week
But this is what she looked like when I first got her Enjoy!
Pretty right! but wait theres more...
Oh yeah!!! LOVE'N that jacked up rear end... stupid PO.
And remember I said the driver side window was busted for a year before I got it...
Thank god that air freshiner was still in the car
Well this is what she looks like today....
Much better!
Notice the Chrome grill... And yes the bumpers are stock 240Z bumpers they've just been welded and chromed.
This is what the paint looks like in direct sunlight
The color is LeMans Sunset A.K.A. 350Z orange ...
Oh and remember that Awesome interior....
See ... I still need carpet!
People always ask me if I'm going to change out the rims. No, I love the rims ... I got those on purpose. I don't care if they don't perform as well as 17inch pansports... The look cool.
And last but not least, Me with my Z
Well thanks for looking... If you have any questions Please feel free to drop me a line. I'll be up dating this post when I get around to putting in the head liner and the carpet and when I start the Turbo project.
Thanks Again!
Matt-
-
If your gonna boost watch your compression ratio. I think that combo might put you close to the 10:1 area...and thats not good for boost, especially with the E88 head.
I think 8-8.5:1 is where you wanna be for mild boost with a p79 or a p90 head.
I hope this helped.
Matt-
-
down load the L-engine calculator.
I think the F-54, flat tops, 20 thous over, p90 head, 2mm head gasket = 8.2:1 CR ... but thats just from memory.
Matt-
-
Hey jacob, welcome to Hybridz. the 72 is a great choice for a Z (I have one). The L24 (the stock engine in the car) is a great engine but its max HP for your budget is about 150 to the wheels or Rear Wheel Horse Power (RWHP). The 150 horse power # your looking at is a bit of a 1970 bull $hit # that they put on the car, It really had about 124 at the fly wheel, which is about 100 RWHP.
If you want that 180 RWHP then you need to swap out your engine to the L28 which is the big brother of the L24 (it came with the 280z and 280zx models). now, that engine will only give you 180 RWHP with about 1K-2k in mods. OOOOOORRRRR!!!!!......
you could just go down to the junk yard and (be patient .... very patient it might take a while to find one) find a 1980's 280zx TURBO and pull the engine for about 200 - 500 bucks depending on your junkyards pricing. the engine will bolt right up to your 1972 240Z with no mods. the engines are the same ON THE OUTSIDE but very differnet on the inside.
Within your budget of 1-2 K you can easily build a mild turbo L28 that will put down 220 -250 RWHP. The stock L28 turbo engine makes about 180 RWHP, I THINK!!! Or maybe it was 150RWHP either way its way more than a non turbo L28.
Now this is just my 2 cents on what you should do. there are about 300 different things you can do with a Z car engine, from the mild stock L24 to a full blown RB26dett that puts down over 600 RWHP, or you can always go the V8 route, I've met one guy at the Z car shows that has a twin turbo'd V8 that his dyno sheet says has 860 RWHP ... but thats a different animal.
I would encourage you to READ READ READ. you will find thousands of hours of information that will help you build your perfect Z.
Once again welcome to hybrid Z and feel free to ask questions when you hit a dead end with the SEARCH engine.
Matt-
-
Panzerace.... I don't know the ISBN # but you can get the book on amazon.
search for Corky Bell, the name of the book is maximum boost, Its really great info. I had to read it twice just to understand it. I was able to check it out of my local library.
Matt-
-
Hey careless... Its been a while since I read corky's book but... I don't think he specificly refered to the L28 but there was a section about carb'd turbos and there is a picture of an L28 with tripples and a blow through system, so I assume he sort of had that system in mind while he wrote that section ( a total assumption on my part).
I hope that helps
Matt-
-
thanks for the answers Panzerace,
It sounds like you have a P90 head on your motor already so there would be no need for a head swap if you went with FI.
I hear you with the computer... I don't really want to tackle the computer problems but I figure it would be easier and cheeper than the tripple problems.
Nbesheer.... If it was a single SU turbo blow through then it would prob. be a V12 jag SU... just a guess.
Matt-
-
Funny... A week or so ago a newbie posted about building a 3.0 turbo and he got his a$$ handed to him.
I've always wondered how much of a pain in the butt a tripple turbo setup would be. I read corky's book and it seemed to me like he thought the "tripple webber" way of turboing an L28 was the not the most efficient way of boosting an L28. Don't get me wrong I'm not poo pooing the Idea, More like I'm just wondering what the appeal is.
thanks, Matt-
-
the winter summer flap is an easy fix. If you live in a warmer climate just put it on summer and forget it .... some guys hack saw that part off. Just put a free flowing air cleaner on (K&N thats what I have.)
As far as the tripples I think its to much carb for a stock L28 head & cam combo. If you had a bigger cam or some head work done then the tripples would be good but I would recomend the SU's ... there just easy and can give you all the power you need on a stock L28 head.
You don't even need to change the needles the stock 240z needles work just fine.
Buy the SU's
I hope this helped, Matt-
-
hey guys ... I fixed the blown horn fuse. It looks like my relay was fine. I tested continuity on all the wires and they checked out ok. so I racked my brain and the best I could come up with is that the relay was making contact with some metal under the dash(it wasn't screwed to the kick wall). so all I had to do is unplug everything and plug it back in and .... problem solved.
That was way to easy.
But ... Thanks for all the help and I hope that other people can learn something from my fuse adventure.
Matt-
-
thats a 10 amp fuse... I guess you could use the 15 amp fuse you have untill you get a 10 amp one but thats probably not the best idea
20A32v = 20 amp 32 volt I think? go with the 311 3AG fuse (standard car fuse ... I think?)
that side of the fuse block is (starting from the top) 10a, 10a, 20a, 10a, 20a
Matt-
-
Ok Dan I found the Relay (its on the driver side) I pulled the wires off and magically no more blown fuse.
So I assume that this means my horn relay is bad...right?
Matt-
-
Where is the horn relay located?
Matt-
-
Hey Dan, What I ment by the statment that the battery runs through it is ...
both the horn and the stop lights have a common power sorce from the altinator (the white wire)
So im sort of thinking that there might be a problem with the white wire ... but then why wouldn't the fuse for the stop lights blow?
I'll chase down the relay for the horn. but im also going to look at the altinator connetion
The horn is a direct ground circut ... so... it works by grounding the circut, when you push on the horn button it makes contact with a brass "arm" behind the stearing wheel, which compleats the ground. I hope that makes sence.
In answer to your question, no i haven't done anything to the stearing colum electronics.
I'll keep you posted, Matt-
81 280zx dizzy parts needed
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
If you wanna get rid of your dizzy, go with Ford EDIS... but you would need an after market ignition control. The parts are about $45 at the junk yard. I gave up on the cas dizzy LONG AGO, just because its so hard to find a good one for cheep. Also you can control your ignition so much better with the EDIS system. Just a thought.
Good luck what ever way you go!
Matt-