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bmr89

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Everything posted by bmr89

  1. Hey guys I can't find anything about anybody using a z32 turbo harness on a z31 turbo engine. Is this even possible? My harness is in bad shape and I can't find a new harness for it and it's driving me nuts! Any info on this subject would be appreciated. Thanks
  2. hey man im doing the same swap in my 72 z, and was wondering if you had dimensions for the mounts you made for your Z, i like the way you built your from other setups ive seen, any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
  3. time to build an L28TURBO! woohoo!

  4. haha alright tony yeah i plan to just drive it while i build my l28 turbo on the side, then complete the swap all at once, engine, tranny etc.. Thank you all for your input!
  5. Newzed- im not sure what brand of tester it was but it had a 1 foot long rubber hose attached to it, makes sense it adds volume so it would have lower numbers with that tube being on there. so if the compression is correct, then maybe a headgasket issue letting oil leak from a galley into the cylinder 4? thats the only spark plug that looks horrible every time, the rest look great.
  6. yeah i havent checked the timing chain slack or anything like that and i havent done a wet test either, but if the valve seals are bad could that cause this low of compression readings? Supposively this engine had a rebuild 50k ago, so im trying to figure out if its the rings or the head thats an issue. If this helps, cylinder 4s spark plug is ALWAYS getting gunked up with a thick oily build up on it really bad, i have to remove it and clean it like once a week or 2. i dont think its a timing issue though, it starts and idles fine, and revs through the power band like it should, if the chain were to be stretched or worn, what side effects would i see?
  7. Alright guys, i searched the forum for a few hours and couldn't find anyone that posted cylinder compression numbers for their L24s with E88 heads. Today checked all cylinders and this is the outcome. Front Engine 1- 110 psi 2- 118 psi 3- 119 psi 4- 110 psi 5- 119 psi 6- 120 psi Rear Engine I thought these numbers were really low and cant find the specs on where i should be compression wise. i have flat top pistons i checked, so i know i should be stock cp ratios. Could my valve seals all be shot? because it burns about a quart of oil every 3-4 weeks and is a daily driver. could the headgasket be leaking oil into the cylinder? Im just trying to narrow it down with opinions before i tear into her to find out for sure. It runs great still just burns oil and doest quite feel like it has the amount of hp it should have. Anyone with specs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brandon
  8. Kamika- The wires are both hot wires, the solid white wire just feeds the white with red stripe wire, which pretty much powers everything in the car.
  9. Haha yeah miles thanks, idk why I said volt meter lol. But the ground wires all fried when I arched the battery, so I'm thinking the alternator is also on the fritz and is overjuicing my power wires, that might be how the gauge took a crap.
  10. Figured out the problem guys..seems as though my voltmeter gauge has both main power wires connected to the back of it, each on it's own threaded stud, the solid thick white wire, and the thick white wire with the red stripe on it, are the wires. While connected, and grounded, the gauge completes the circuit for constant power it seems. But while mine was connected it would not work, so I took them both off the gauge completely, and connected them straight together and BAM. Dome light turned on and the car lives once again! I'm going to get a new gauge to replace the old one, and run switched power to it. It used to run off the main two power wires previously connected. Thank you guys for the help!
  11. Figured out the problem guys..seems as though my voltmeter gauge has both main power wires connected to the back of it, each on it's own threaded stud, the solid thick white wire, and the thick white wire with the red stripe on it, are the wires. While connected, and grounded, the gauge completes the circuit for constant power it seems. But while mine was connected it would not work, so I took them both off the gauge completely, and connected them straight together and BAM. Dome light turned on and the car lives once again! I'm going to get a new gauge to replace the old one, and run switched power to it. It used to run off the main two power wires previously connected. Thank you guys for the help!
  12. What should I have for ohm resistance on the accessory relay. So I can determin if it's faulty, do you know?
  13. -Spitsnaugle Where is the eccessary relay located and what does it look like? i can look into that here in a little while
  14. Well I pulled the dash out and disconnected the wiring harness. I cut through the tape and noticed the main ground wire was severely melted in a bunch of spots. So I bought some new 10 gauge wire and replaced about 8 feet or so worth of new grounds and connections. I put the harness back in the car, hooked everything back up and still no power haha. I haven't yet checked power on the fuseblock to see if it's getting juice but today I will with my friends voltmeter. I'm not really sure what the hell the problem is but it sure is a headache! Maybe the ignition lock and key went bad??
  15. thanks for the diagram miles, so i replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the problem and it didnt work i still have no power. i grounded out the starter to see if it would kick over and yeah she turned alright, so i know its something after the starter in the main harness. i couldnt find the main relay fuse for the car though. where is the fuse block located? and or if the Forecast relay fuse is blown out could this be the problem? thanks guys for the help so far
  16. Mark I checked the battery by accidentally grounding it out and sparks flew haha plus I put it in another car and it ran fine. As far as the terminal wires. I just replaced both wires completely with new ones and still no power running into the car :/
  17. I followed it but it goes straight out through the firewall into the engine bay...hmm nothing seems to be melted out here yet everything is sheilded. Should I maybe run all new positive and negative wires from the battery and all new grounds and see if that works?
  18. Been running fine and then Bam! Tried starting it up the next day and no power at all. No dome lights, headlights, nothing at all. Here's what I have checked. -battery is fine. -terminal heads are clean and not corroded - terminal wires both positive and negative are connected tightly -all grounds are tight - I checked the fuseable links and 2 were kinda melted so I replaced them (still didn't work after replaced, still no power) I'm at a loss on where to go from here. Please if anyone has ran into the same problem with their 240 or 260z and can give me some advice or tips id appreciate it. This electrical stuff isn't my strong suit. Thanks!
  19. Guys, As you are aware, the Z curse of the rusted gas tanks overwhelmes many. I am a new customer to it's greeting, and in so, decided to drop the old tank out, throw it in the trash, and go with a fuel cell. Looking on line I found a good deal through RC Engineering, whom design plastic, or polytheolyne fuel cells in all shapes and sizes. I wanted to base my decision on a few things. 1- could it fit in my spare tire hole without serious body mods 2- find one reasonably priced I found one through rc for 160 bucks, and it came with a sending unit dimensions were 17x17x11 and it fits perfect in the spare tire hole. I then strapped her in place, and plan on building up a false floor to the tip of the tank, there is about 3-4 inches sticking up from the top of the spare tire hole. I will use sheetmetal to cut, weld, and fab the floor to the height of the tank, leaving a hole for breather and return lines, and so I can still fill the cell easily. Btw it will be bolt in as well. So any servicing to my cell will be loads easier in the future. Pics to come of what I have done already, I'm posting this on my cell lmao.
  20. i know right, gotta love the whole "name brand" price rates. ive been successful using more nockoff parts than i can count that worked the exact same as the name brand part. the only thing one might run into is durability in manifolds etc..and fitment issues, but hey, thats why we z guys love custom fab work anyways!
  21. cool deal bud, is that the knockoff greddy canister you said you had on? if authentic greddy mufflers werent so dam expensive id buy more greddy parts. Megan Racing has a new OE straight through muffler, its 3 inch in and out that looks really discreet and would tuck up under the rear end of the z nicely,and has a nice tip to extend out from behind thats not to ricy or noticeable, plus its 2 times cheaper than a greddy lol. i might do that with a vibrant resonator, should sound clean.
  22. that would be sick! post it im looking forward to hearing it..
  23. Hey guys i couldnt find any thread on anyone using a greddy muffler with their NA Z. any guys running this muffler i would greatly appreciate a response on how it sounds on an L series and possible pics or vids if you have one. i already love the sound and quality, i know its a just preference and kind of a lame ass post but i cant find any vids online of a Z running a greddy. thanks guys
  24. Good god man! that is crazy! yeah i can see how any kind of fuel leak in that bay would be disasterous lol. with that huge downpipe running right next to the fuel rail and all. btw nice fab work, you have inspired me to do an ls1 swap! idk if i can handle boosting it though... that thing looks way too dam fast for me. hoping to get my z soon. had a fully built KA in a 240sx and ready for a new build!
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