Ericshere03

I bought it a week after a graduated HS in 2005. Owner was from San Diego, I now live in San Diego coincidentally. My guess the car wasn't coastal. I put over 30k miles on it and it never left me high and dry. I put in the better 81-83 zx 5 speed. New rebuild electronic distributor. Seats, which were bolted down properly when I sold it. I paid a grand for those seats, plus had them upholstered. I put all the LEDs, the wiring would get hot from age and natural resistance. The car had the cyclone mag wheels. I put on the front and rear spoilers and the XXR wheels (only thing available back then). I dearly miss that car. They've gotten expensive. I bought it for 6k in 2005 and sold it for about that in 2008 (I think). Anyways, good luck with you new Z ... Someday I will pick up another, likely a 280z, swap the bumpers. BTW: I love the L28 and its character, the RB would be cool. I HAD a stroker crank, 240z 9mm bolt rods, and non hydraulic P90 head. PS: I still have a Mallory billit distributor, factory front valence, stock steering wheel and partially melted headlight switch.

What's the story of this car??? This was mine, and been trying to find it again... Thing was a solid car, put a ton of miles. Kinda sad it only put down 120hp. Lol. Anyways, if anyone has any leads, lemmie know... And those seats were out of a 911 Turbo with the sport seats. I had them upholstered. Those seats changed the whole feel of the car.

Any updates ? I hope you are too busy driving the 280zxtd !!! I might be doing the same!

Would it be possible to buy the full chassis and actually rivet\bond the OE firewall and forward steel portions, ex: rails, engine cradle\suspension mounts and inner fenders, that would simplify front end assembly substantially? Not to mention registering the car in the US! One VIN is on the passenger strut cavity, another on the dash and the last one rivited on the drivers side door a little sugery and a fully road legal Z is not out of the question, plus a good template to re-install the heater box. along with the bonding a pair of steal beams can connect the factory rails to the floor pan of the FRP rear portion. What is the cost of a full chassis minus the front subframe (you can message me if needed)? I would love to make a 'New 240z', the beauty of driving it daily and no worries of door dings, or rust FINALLY! the body will not fail before the motor! Ive been Z-less for too long! Eric Wolf

Hey What The *** happened? Just Kidding, any updates on the project? I too am contemplating a V8 swap, I had a vette for a while and loved the torque, the sound and it got ~30mpg... Buddy built a 383 for his rat rod and the power and sound is addicting... BTW: Is that a DR400\650 or a DRZ? I have been tossing up the idea of getting either a XR650R (make legal) or a DR650.

Hey Can I Reasurect this one??? I am looking into the swap, prolly start N\A LD28 with a header and good exhaust, then upgrade to turbo later when I learn more about using another pump that compensates for boost. I am looking to do what I can to manage 50mpg. I have an 83 280zx 5 speed 2 seater. I think this is the coolest thing... Had anyone wondered about revving the engine past the 4600? What about running a NA Turbo cam, the principal is the same for both, no overlap, perhaps gain a little lift. Also anyone port the intake and\or exhaust ports? I imagine a good (and easy to do) polish could help since we dont care about fuel atomization... JUST IDEAS.

Hey Guys, I am in DIRE need of a tranny and clutch, clutch slips and trans doesnt always stay in first... So I figure what better time to upgrade to the FS5W71C (240sx, Hardbody, 300zx) tranny... HOWEVER, I found a great deal on a rebuild 1987 Z31 NA tranny with new clutch and flywheel ... BUT I am curious if the swap is EXACTALLY like the S130 (240sx) swap. I am concerned that the input shaft may be longer or shorter (I know the splines are the same) or something else I am over looking... And the ratios are the same Z31 VS 240sx, or i still get the groovy OD plus the lower 1st than my 83... Thanks in Advance, Either way I will prolly tackle this, Ill keep this thread upated with progress... Eric Wolf

I have a rust free car, in need of restoration.. the previous owner took really good care of it, reciepts for AC work and motor reseal and rebuilt head, only problem is that it sat for 10 years after the owner flew back to japan. SO if you have a method of transport and intrested, let me know... Eric WOlf 480-238-0089 ericshere03@msn.com

I have a 77 Rust free shell in AZ, Had Factory AC, the thing has jest been sitting for 10 years, so it has faded paint and cracked dash... I saved it from the crusher... If you intrested in digging up a shell from out of state, here is on. If intrested either call me direct at 480-238-0089 or email ericshere03@msn.com

I have a 77 rust free arizona shell, but only problem is that i am in AZ, lol... Its complete just sat for almost 10 years, the previous owner flew back home to japan, and left the car. It has A\C, Arizona paint package (read:faded) and the usual cracked dash. Everything works, but it rund rough and the transmission is noisy (prolly dry, i havnt checked)... This thing was on its way to the bone yard, but couldt see such a rust free car go to waste, so i bought it, and have no use for it. So, If you feeling adventurous, C'mon down.

That sucks..... ill keep that in mind, maybe i can revove some of the layers of the 2mm HG to make it 1mm, from the looks of it a 2mm is just 2 1mm stacked, or use a felpro at 1.25 and tack it down using a can of copper spray. Thanks for the tip, Eric Wolf

Can you port a Stock EFI Runner? i am in the process of building a 3.0 Stroker Turbo, i have all of the parts, just saving up for pistons and machining. I am not looking for all out power a crappy ride, like the supra crowd, i would be happy with 300HP and lots of torque. I currently have a new head (totally rebuilt, new everything) and a holset hy35 turbo and N42 non egr intake and stock exhaust manifold, stroker crank and the 73 240z rods. I figure since i am increasing displacement i will need larger ports just to accomidate the .2 liter increase. What is the going rate for a port job like the above? Also do you recomment the stock cam for 300-400 hp? what is the disadvantage of a larger cam (stage 2 MSA?), i understand how it works for NA, but not turbo, can a bigger cam allow more air AND quicker turbo response AND higher torque at a lower RPM? Do you do other machine work? i wold like to have all my parts done by 1 machinest (i feel that would be better), i still need my block bored and lapped, and crank polished up and balanced (with pistons, rods, flywheel, ect) Thanks in advance, Eric Wolf

now does anyone know where to get cheep JE pistons? It frusterates me that i can get a set for 550 for a buick V6 but for an L6 they are 750.....WTF!!!! i wonder if i should have some "Buick" pistons custom made for my Z....lol. i guess i am being cheep, ill probably suck it up and buy from RaceTEP, BUT id anyone knows where to find them cheeper LET ME KNOW!!! Thanks to all, Eric Wolf

I plan on Purchasing a set of custom JE Pistons for my turbo project, i have the Quenched P90a (hydrolic, but irrelivent) and was planning on these specs: 88mm 21mm wrist pin 33.350 pin heigth (will be even with block) and a -10cc D shaped dome (dome under spark plug) 1mm Head gasket (HKS Metal i guess) This would yield a 8.230:1 compression ratio (1MM Head Gasket), and will be even with the block deck, while this sound ok on paper, is this ideal to take full advantage of the quench design of the p90 head? i worry that if all of the inital combustion takes place on half of my piston that it will cause my piston to want to rotate on the wrist pin and cause unnecesary stress on my piston skirts. Do i have to worry about valve reliefs, i will run a stock cam, maybe upgrade to a MSA unit (i dont know what affect that would have, in the case of an NA i do). Why can we just keep cars stock ? Thanks, and i did search () Eric Wolf

I have been doing some research on the 280z to turbo swaps, i have a god idea as to what is needed to be done, but is there a complete writeup somewhere? like a How To? The motor is in and so is the ECU (using the Nissan ECCS) and harness, there is a 6 pronged female connector i assume is for the fuel pump modulator which is unnecessary, is that all, i still need to get a new battery and starter for the thing, but i can beleive i am finished. Thanks in advance, Eric Wolf

Yes, the SUs work really well, could be better and they definatly poop out at 5000RPM, i was getting 22-25MPG, i dont think i had modified needeles, the previous owner had redone the motor.

Thats exactally what i wanted to do, i want to change the gearing anyways, i dont think the bone yard will charge too much for a non LSD diff from a 300zx, but then agian they wanted to charge me 550 for a 5-speed.

oops i re read NZender's post, looks like the "helical OBX unit is a go-ahead which is really good considering i can get 2 OBX units for the same price as 1 Nissan 300zx CLSD, plus i like the gear concept better and i have 2 Z's ... Well a Z and ZX, ill be sure to post my experiences with the unit, i plan on dropping a 350 into the 280zx ..... eventually, right now its stripped and waiting interior modifications ad restoration and body kit and a little rust damage....oh so much fun So if you want a LSD you have the choice of CLSD center from a number of manufactures, Nismo, KAAZ, or HLSD from Quaife (must have 29spline given they list a part number for our long nose diffs), OBX 240sx unit for S13 (what I have and can confirm the 29spline 30mm shaft is required).

Well looking on ebay, they sell Torsen Gleason type (they call Helical) diffs for the R200 Short nose with origional open end. By the looks of it it seems that they will not only bolt right up to our diffs (12MM), (correct me if i am wrong) but also work with our axels, we can use 240-280z half shafts or the turbo CV shafts, has anyone done this before? i dont think these need the extended side input shafts like viscous units, plus its gear driven instant LSD action, the only question is quality i may only put a maximum of 300HP (stroker) so i think it can handle it, ive seen other right ups on 240sx forums that suggest that they are good units however sloppy put together, so make sure there are no stripped screws and the unit is clean of metal debris. Any experience??? Eric Wolf

Is it possible to take the LSD carrier from inside a shortnose R200 and install it into a regular longnose R200? I would guess it would minus the bolts, will probably need the 12MM bolt versions out of a z31. What about the VLSD out of the short nose?

Oh, man where did you find that spoiler?