~KnuckleDuster~

Bringing the Z back from the dead! It's been a year since my last post. Life's been busy and I considered selling the Z at one point, came close but decided to hold onto it. I recently got a Gopro 7 black so I'm looking forward to making some more videos of the Z in 4K. 🤙

Not yet. I’m waiting for a new tps to arrive then I’ll be able to take it for a long drive and see if it’s still happening.

The pre filter was a little dirty but didn’t have any chunks of debris stuck in it. The vent line is using the smaller oem fuel hardline that runs to the front of the engine bay on the passenger side. Pretty sure it’s venting. After a whining drive session I opened the gas cap not long after shutting it down and there was hardly any pressure built up.

Hey guys I need some help with my fuel line routing. I've read quite a bit on what should go where but it gets confusing with so many different set-ups people run and how they choose to route things. Not a lot of diagrams out there either, without seeing it I gets confused. So my issue is after a long 45 min+ drive the fuel pump is humming pretty darn loud. If I shut the car off and turn it back on the hum is still there. I have a mesh filter pre fuel pump which I need to open up and investigate still to make sure there's no blockages. I drew out my fuel line routing because I don't think this is how it should be. I know my feed and return is fine but is what I have blocked off ok or should something be switched around?

So ever since I did the rear maxima disc brake swap there has been a slight leak at the bleeders after a hard drive. I'll noticed a handful of drips on the inside of my wheels. I've tightened the bleeders up as tight as possible but there still weeping occasionally. Did anyone have this issue with theirs?

same here

Thanks. Yeah I really need to paint that front air dam. I think about it every time I look at it!

Luckily for me there were 30a relays already in there.

Picked up a set of Raybrig headlights. How did I go this long without upgrading my headlights?!? Haven't had a chance to drive at night yet but they look much better than the Autopal's that were installed. Everything was already modified for the H4's so it was a fast change out.

Been slowly working on the RB26DETT ITB's. They were pretty filthy.. After a lot of elbow grease.. There is a coating from the factory that helps seal the butterflys at idle because the butterfly plate have small gaps around them that air can pass through, when you clean it off you can have a high idle and even a lack of throttle response. I ordered a can of Molykote 321 to re-coat the inside. I'll show this later on. Next up I'll be port matching the manifold to the throttle bodys. I'm quite surprised how much of a lip sticks out. This will all be make flush and any extra rough casting areas will be removed and smoothed. Marking out the areas to be massaged..

I was in the same boat as you once. It was a buddy's shop and he always gave me great deals on labor but he would fit me in when he could. Right after I bought my 73 I took it to him to figure some wiring issues out, the car ended up not running anymore while it was there and it didn't seem like he was working on it at all. So my new car was sitting at this shop for nearly a year collecting dust. I finally got tired of it and had him tow the car back to my house. Turned out to be a bad ignition coil resistor. I know exactly what your feeling right now trust me! It's hard for a shop to work on someone elses project when they can turn and burn a bunch of easy oil changes or other misc through the day and make their money. I wouldn't bother with the cops or lawyer unless you really think the car is being stolen and have a bit of proof. My opinion is go to the shop in person, ask to see the car and whats going on with it, and explain to him it's taking too long and would like an actual date of when it can be finished otherwise you would like to have the car towed back to your house to complete it yourself.