~KnuckleDuster~

The fuse box was in fact faulty. MSA is sending me a new unit.

I decided to change out MAF's from the E60 to the slightly newer E61 model and the car is running much smoother. Eliminated a lot of off throttle backfiring. Second, I never liked the look of the all chrome heat shield on the air filter. Not going for a show car type of look. I considered painting it black but decided to wrap it with DEI reflect a gold heat material. First researched to make sure it does actually work so I could justify the function which it does. As far as the fashion goes I like it. I finished it off with some rubber welting around the edges.

Called MSA. They're having me ship the box back to them so they can have the manufacturer inspect it. Luckily my old fuse box still works because this process is going to take a few weeks to figure out.

Ok so I put the old fuse box back in. No issues. Checked voltage on the L & R fuse block with ignition on and power was only coming into the left side like it should. I'll be calling MSA tomorrow. 😕

Correct power is on both side of STOP bus bar with the fuse removed & ignition in the on position. Makes me think it's a manufacturing issue with the new box. Prior to install I had just drove the car to turn it around in the garage and replaced the fuse box. Never had any real wiring issues before this. The hazards don't work anyway so I'm thinking about just leaving this fuse out completely. I don't like the idea of masking a potential problem but the idea of having to comb through all the wiring under the dash to just have the new fuse box just be the issue is a bit of a turn off. Do you think it's worthy of contacting MSA about it? I guess the only true test would be to put the old fuse box back in and see if there's power to both sides of that fuse..

It's a 73 240z. It's got it's share of wiring modifications for gauges, rb motor misc. I believe I have it isolated to the stop circuit. I don't recall if I had to rotate the connector but the wire colors do somewhat match up..the msa wiring color isn't exact but I double checked that I didn't have it reversed, the plug will only go on one way as well. The stop circuit has constant 12v power on the left side of the fuse bus as it should, with the key to ON there is 12v power to both sides of the fuse is this normal or am I getting two 12v inputs into the same circuit? I'm going to mess with it some more today, might put the old box back in to see if it goes away. MSA doesn't offer returns on electrical equipment so I really hope the issue isn't with the new box.

Hey guys, so I just upgraded my fuse box to the MSA modernized unit. When I put the battery cables back on the engine electronics and fuel pump kick on as if going to accessory power. If I remove the 20a STOP fuse I can put the cables on and the key will operate the acc power as usual. Any ideas on what can be going on here? Edit: I originally upgraded the box because the parking lamp fuse block was starting to melt out.

I lost the parking lights the other day and found a loose connection at the fuse box that would have just gotten worse. Got the MSA upgraded replacement. Everything was plug & play. Looks nice but I'll miss the look of the old style fuse box..

I have one. I don't have the gauge pod for it though. You would have to install into your own pod. Working when pulled. PM me if your interested.

Nice, I thought that mountain range looked familiar. I used to frequent the Army base there for work quite often.

Congratulations on your retirement. Plenty of time to spend with the Z now. Looks like Colorado.

Thanks!

I was hoping to find a loose solder joint on any of the three connector points but they all appear solid with a screwdriver wiggle test. I suppose their could be hairline cracks still. I'm thinking all the corrosion isn't good for it, even the board has an odd residue on it.