10cjennings

They're polished. Right now they could use a good polishing (I'm gonna give it a try), but besides that the wheels and center caps (say Datsun on them) are in great shape. No real curb rash or scratches. What would be a good asking price for these 4 wheels (without tires)?

I bought my 280z only a couple weeks ago, but I'm now getting started on the real project. With the current tires starting to die it's time to get some new wheels (Wanatanabe R-Type look-alikes), but I could use some help in ID'ing the current wheels I have. So what exactly are these wheels? I only have one clear picture of them right now, but if more are needed let me know and I'll try to take some. Thanks, Chris J.

Hey, Im still looking for a set of Front/Rear 240z Bumpers. The front needs to be off an earlier (70-72) Z, and the backs were the same every year for the 240z (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm looking for parts in really good condition, and while I'm definetly willing to pay for shipping, buying local is always ideal. Thanks, Chris J.

Clean EG, I used to drive a GSR. I'd say post specifics instead of just "lots of extras" but good luck with the trade.

still looking

still looking

Still looking for bumpers...

Fair enough. I've got a couple friends running apexi air filters, and no complaints.

Why exactly are you against K&N? I know you said you're filter collapsed but was that because it was being squeezed into a space it wasn't really designed to fit? I've never heard any complaints on them collapsing (as you hear with old paper style filters when they get clogged with dirt)

I'm looking for a set (front and rear) of 70-72 240z bumpers. They've got to be in good shape (no sratches/dents, generally good chrome, not rusted out, and the rubber ends in good shape). I'm located in Miami (FL) so the closer the parts are, the better, but I'm willing to pay for shipping if I can't find anything local. Thanks, Chris J.

Well, I hooked up the pump to a car battery, and it worked. Put it back into the car, hooked up the wires, and it works (and I'm now getting the correct reading from the voltmeter on the pump wires), so the electrical problem has solved itself (for the time being). I'm sure w.e. it is will resurface again so I'm going to try and figure out which wires correlate to the pump so when it does I'll know where to look.

While driving my 73 240z began to sputter and die, s if it was running out of gas. I checked and the fuel pump (it's an electric inline pump) was definitely not turning on. Towed the car home, lifted the back end up and after the key was in the ignition turned to where the fuel pump SHOULD work for 2-3 minutes it all of a sudden appeared to have turned the pump on (it was making it's standard noise), but still, no fuel was getting to the carbs. I hooked a Voltmeter up to the fuel pump wires and even though the pump would make noise, and I even saw a small spark when I hooked up the voltmeter it read no volts (I know it was working, read 12V on my car battery). So I pulled the fuel line directly off the pump, ran the pump and it is definitely not pumping gas through its self. I pulled the pump off the car, attached it to another car battery, and then it pumped fuel. So basically the pump works, the fuel lines/filter aren't clogged, and it appears as if the pump is not getting power (though it makes its "whirring" noise). So what I need to do is work my way backwards up the electrical system tryng to find the bad connection but I have no idea where to start. It's a '73 so I'm pretty sure there isn't a fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box, and I have no idea what wiring behind the dash correlates to the pump. Any ideas on what I should be looking for to identify the fuel pump electrical parts, or other things I should check to narrow down the options? Thanks, Chris J.

Ok, so it looks like it's the 240z emblem. Could anyone help me out on the interior bolts question? Thanks, Chris J.

The two holes are in a straight line, so it couldn't work with a diagonal badge, but on the 240 I think both are straight. Anyone else have any idea one which badge has the two pins which seal these holes?

I just purchased my first 240Z (JSM's Red '73), the car's great, but I have two quick questions. 1. Where can I find all the screw/bolt dimensions (or the screws/bolts themselves)for the following Interior panels: The plastic peices which go around the rear windows The piece where the dome light attaches The piece on the underside of the hatch 2. I'm trying to find the emblem which covers the two small holes in the hatch (mine currently has no emblems). Is it the "240Z" emblem or the "DATSUN" one which goes there? I have the two I'm referring to linked below. 240Z emblem DATSUN emblem Thanks, Chris J.

I looked into the classic car insurances I could find, and few (though CHUBB may be an exception) seem to apply to me as I plan on driving the car almost every day. I'm going to contact my insurance agent and see what they can do for me, but the rate I'm paying right now (Not sure, as my fathers crv and mothers accord are also lumped in, but i'd guess the insurance on my GSR as easily costing me 3500/year. I'll just have to see what they say about a sports car from '73. Thanks

I ran a search and wasn't able to come up with very much. For you guys that daily/often drive (ie: not the classic car insurance plans that only allow you to drive your car once a year, when it's sunny and you aren't feeling gassy lol) your 240z's could you give me some information on what you've done as far as insurance policies (obviously nothing private). I'm looking at getting a 1973 240, and as far as insurance on the actual car, I'm not too worried. The main concern is as a 17 year old in Miami (people are unbelievably quick to sue) I've got to have pretty hefty liability coverage (approx. 500K). I'm coming off a 2000 Acura Integra GSR Coupe (Street racers car of choice, and by the rates I pay, I'm guessing the insurance company knows that) so I'm hoping I won't see too much (little to none) of a jump in my rate. We're also planning on filing my father (70+ years old) as the primary driver (me as a secondary) of the Z and myself as the primary driver of his CRV. Explaining that I'm going off to college and the car's staying here, (technically I'm going to UM, right down the street) and I'm just on it's insurance for the "rare" occasions I drive it. Currently insured by St. Johns (great service, good rates). Thanks, Chris J.

Cool find....I really love the car, do you have any plans to build the RB25DE? Not too many people are running the non-turbo version of that motor (It's good to be different lol). Great stuff, keep it up.

If he's going for the Eleanor look (which he seems like he is), then the hood is more of a bump, not really a "scoop" I like what your going for but in my opinion it looks a little too busy. Door scoop, Rear window scoop, bulging hood, Fog lights, the ducktail spoiler, side exhaust....I don't know it just seems like a little too much. I'd say get rid of the Door scoop, and the rear window scoop, and the car will look a lot smoother and still have that Eleanor feel to it. All-in-all though I really like what you're going for with this, be sure to post up pics when you put this plan into action.

Cool vid. Wish I had friends with such nice cars lol.

Problem solved

I'm actually looking at his car....Anyone know of any mechanics in that area who know these cars?

I'm looking to buy my first S30, and I would really like the whole process to go smoothly. I've read every article I can come across as far as buyng one of these cars, and I've found a car (in orlando) that seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. I live in Miami, so I don't know too much about the Orlando area. Could you guys point me in the direction of any expert mechanics/shops located in Orlando that specialize in these old Z cars and would be able to give the car a thorough once over, checking for problems that a beginner like myself might miss before I commit to buying the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris J.