Zfreak

Sorry I up dated my profile, but I guess my web address didn't come through. http://www.ppcadcam.com/car/troy.html

I recently put the motor, trans, driveshaft, differential, and exhaust system in my car. Its only took about four and a half years to get this far so its time for a little celebration. Take a look at some pictures on my web page. The web page is just a start.

Im working on the finishing touches on my sbc and I need to know witch location is best for the water temp sending unit. Should I install it in the head or in the intake manifold? Im using a mechanical auto meter gauge. Thanks

I got my car out of the body shop a couple days ago. It looks great but the body shop guys took the brake lines loose in the engine compartment. does anyone have a picture of the engine compartment brake line routing? I need help because they didn't just loosen them up they bent them out of the way. Any help would be great.

I'am looking for some advice on what stall will work well with a 700R4. Im running a 383 with 425 hp and 500 pounds or torqe. The rear end is a R200 with 3:54s. The car will be driven on the street and taken to the strip, so I need a converter that will work well in for both. Should I use a lock or not? Is the B&M 3000 stall to much? Thanks for any help.

Just a couple questions. According to your post you are running 9s with an open rear end? Is it a R200? What gears are you running? Are you running slicks? What size tires are you running? Thanks for any info. Im building a v8 240Z and Im surprised to hear of times that fast with an open rear end. I figured I would be lucky to get into the low 12s with an open rear end.

If your thinking about buying this engine combo, don't do it if your car is using the JTR engine mount set up. The harmonic balancer will rub on the cross member. Your going to have to have the engine re-balanced with a smaller harmonic balencer. There seems to be some confusion on what a 383 is. Here is my 2 cents. It consist of a 350 block and a 400 crank with mains resized to fit the 350 block. ( scat sells some nice cranks for this ) Your still going to have some clerance problems. The clerance problems arrise between the rods and the cam, and the rods and the sides of the block.

Thanks for all the info everyone. I think I will try welding the r200 up.

I just want thank everyone for taking the time to answer my question. It looks like of useful information.

Hey Tommy does it shake under braking? It sounds like you should check your steering rack bushings. Warn bushings can cause a pretty good shake.

I have 1984 toyota 4X4 truck brake calipers and want up grade the rotors to a vented style. I need to know what rotors to purchase and whether or not I need some type of spacers to makes them work. Thanks for the help.

Here's the scenario...Driving down the highway...Speed 65 MPH...5th Gear...All of a sudden the trans pops into neutral. I mean the stick actually popped back into the neutral position. I put it back into 5th...No problem...About 5 minutes later if happened again. It seems to happen on the thottle more than off. The car is a 1977 280Z. Any ideas?

Has anyone had any luck having their hubs re drilled to accomadate a five lug bolt pattern to open the options of wheels.

Hey Guys I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck welding up the spider gears in a r200? What are the pros and cons? ------------------ Z you later

Anyone know what year the taurus is that the 2 speed fan is located in? ------------------ Z you later

Hi Guys, I started fabricating the hood latch as described in the JTR manual, but I am looking for something I don't have to remove. I like Pete's latch but I have permanent strut tower braces that prevent me from using that design. Any ideas that look clean? ------------------ Z you later