93anthracite

Does anybody know of a reputable shop that is offering brackets for mounting rear 240sx calipers on a 240z? Essentially, looking for reproduction of Ross' Modern Motorsports kit, since it is no longer offered by them?

I welded mine in over the originals as well, worked out great.

I'm reading up on my own ideas for running new piping throughout my car and stumbled upon this thread. It seems to me that another, more driver-adjustable solution, might be to run a simple T from the back (or gut the stock one), run a new line from there to the interior of the cabin and plumb in an adjustable prop valve near the driver on the trans tunnel, then run it back into the trans tunnel or engine bay. This would put the valve within reach of the driver, giving the ability to adjust on the fly.

Thanks Paul, do you have a Haynes manual to reference and provide the answer? So far, I have scoured my Datsun Shop Manual, How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car, and both books on building and modifying the L-series and none have given the clarification I was hoping for (the voltage regulator was the only one even ID'd in a book so far).

Thanks Barbarossa! Good eyes! The weld patch is from putting in Bad Dog sway bar reinforcements.

Background: '73 240z w/ engine removed. Current plan is to thoroughly clean, strip, and re-paint the engine bay and install an L28ET. I may put the L24 back in just to get the car running, haven't quite decided yet... Anyways, I've pulled the engine I'm just trying to identify some specific parts that I couldn't determine what they do. Please see the pictures below and if at all possible let me know what they are and what they do. I REALLY appreciate your help with this. -Dave 1. Located on the passenger side of the engine bay; large multi-wire plug coming off of it. -Voltage Regulator 2. Located on the firewall 3. Located on the firewall - Wiper Relay? 4. Located on the firewall 5. Located on the driver side of the engine bay - fuel vapor return to airbox 6. Located on the driver side of the engine bay - Ballast Resistor

thanks for the quick replies and good info guys! I'm using an ATL fuel cell with AN lines to the pump, but wanted to get these hard line sizes figured out before I finished the AN hose in the rear. I figure since I'm refreshing the whole system, I might as well just replace the metal hard lines at the same time; not gonna cost a whole lot in the grand scheme of things...

I really appreciate any help you guys can provide on this stage in my fuel system buildup on my 73 240z. I am building the car for road racing and at this stage am replacing all of the hard lines running from the external fuel pump to the engine bay. I have not decided the long-term future engine plans for this car, so I am trying set it up now for it to be able to handle any future upgrades. I'll be going to an L28ET this year, and I think I will eventually upgrade to either a 1JZ-GTE or a V8 (sorry for the vagueness but I imagine it will be a LS-series Chevy). I doubt any of these will ever see more than 400 hp, as I don't think I'll even need that much to put a grin on my face. My dilemma is, what size pipe do I need to use? Many of the L28ET guys use a 3/8" feed and 5/16" return line, but I haven't been able to definitively determine that this will work with either of my future projects. Would there be any drawback to a 3/8" return? Any input on your setups and fuel pipe sizing would be phenomenal. Thanks!!

Freakin awesome build, can't wait to see how this turns out!

I too am working on a tight budget, but I have also never had *great* success with long term rattle-can jobs. Here's my recommendation for a cheap, effective way to get a clean, professional-looking paintjob of any color that you want: My recommendation would be to prep thoroughly, first and foremost. Depending on much time you want to devote (and if you're as anal as me), I would encourage using a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder and remove as much of the old paint as possible. Those multiples coats of paint add totally unnecessary weight to the car. The key to a good paint job is truly in the prep work... Once you've prepped it, I'd encourage using etching primer to cover up any exposed metal. It won't hurt to put a layer of primer on the entire area you're going to work. Finally, find a car on the street and find out the factory paint code. Go to your local auto paint supplier (same place you got your etching primer) and ask them to mix up a few spray cans of said paint code. They'll probably offer a lower grade version, or some high-grade Dupont paint (for an engine bay I'd lay down a couple coats of the cheaper) to suit your needs. I just finished painting the interior of my Z this weekend (see link below). The painting supplies ended up costing me $50 and I still have leftover paint for the next phase. Considering the cost and effort, I think it turned out extremely well. http://93anthracite.com/Z%20project%20pages/1Interior%20paint.html

1973 240z L24 K&N filters on 71 SUs, full interior, dealer installed AC, steel wheels of unknown origin, otherwise stock. Gas tank was drained empty and spare wheel was out. Total Weight 2283 LF: 638 RF: 622 LR: 507 RR: 517

this thread rocks! Can somebody please explain how they are "making" shift lights? I'm about to start picking up some guages for my car and I really would like to have a shift light, but don't want an ugly, bulky one like you get with the 5" tachs. I'm seeing all of these clean installs, but don't have a clue on how to make the shift light part. Also, is the RPM trigger adjustable?

what year is your car? On my 73 240z, it had a line going from the tank -> tiny filter -> fuel pump-> hardline in tunnel to engine bay -> engine -> return hardline -> soft line back to tank. If you don't have a fuel pump, just eliminate the little filter and pump from this equation. If you trace your hardlines from the engine bay, you should be able to replicate this. I took several pictures when I was removing mine, PM me with an email address and I can send you what I have.

lord have mercy, that car is beautiful!

280z Turbo is making a lot of good points here. A properly functioning brake system, with fresh fluid should be able to do several hard stops without any major fading. For a budget-friendly upgrade, try bumping up to a more aggressive brake pad in the front (Hawk, Carbotech, lots of options out there) and moving up to a higher-temp fluid with some ducting to the rotors to help with cooling. I don't know what's out there for rotors, but a larger rotor is nothing more than a bigger heat sink, so I don't think it's really not necessary unless you're experience fading issues. I'd be willing to bet that if you do these simple fixes, your car will out-stop the FC on stock pads (the FC is a lot lighter, so it'll be close). Beyond this you're getting more expensive and harder mods, but why spend the extra $$ when you can get 90% of the performance with less than 1/4 of the price. Not to mention you won't be screwing with the brake balance toooo much (you can do the calculations to figure out the difference...).