Big Ben

Looking for L28ET. Would like it as complete as possible(Engine, wire harness, ECU) but engine alone would be ok too. I would like to be able to get something semi local, if not let me know what it will cost to ship. Thanks!

Awesome! I will do that right away. Thanks again!

Still need the drivers side.

You can get these New as well. I got mine from Tabco. Watch it though, the prices are much different that what is on their site. Their rear coner comes with the dog leg. I got quarters, inner tubes, rockers and a fender patch from them. Good shipping time too. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm

Bump!

I gotta get the drivers side!

Bump. Need a driver side one still.

Bump, still need the drivers side!

I located the passenger side one. Just need the drivers now.

I need both, so I will take what I can get. PM me with a price and paypal info if you could. Thanks!

Here are some better pics.

The section between the tape that is cut out. It is right below the door hinge. I had to cut the piece out to replace the rocker panel and when we cut them out, we found lots of mud and patch work.

I am in need of the door sil corner bends. I had to cut the ones out of my car and found both sides to be in pretty bad shape. I would like to put some rust free ones. Here is a pic of what I need, let me know if you have something. Thanks!

I agree with the limited tuner market for the Nismotronic, however most tuners can adapt to different programs, especially if you take it to a good one. The new software release enables the ECU to eliminate the MAF and run a MAP sensor. As well as do boost by gear, launch control and a host of other options. You also can hook your wide band into the ECU, just like an AEM. This is also not a piggy back unit. It is an actual daughter board that is installed into the ECU and there are no engine harnesses to be cut and what not. So my statement about having all of the capabilities is somewhat accurate. As far as the rocker arm stoppers go..... I have seen this same topic discussed multiple times. Having owned SR(NA, DET's and VE's) powered cars since 2000, I have seen both sides of that fence. Yes it will prevent them from shooting out, but I have seen them cause serious valve train issues. Just a word of warning is all. What you should do to prevent this, is just swap a VE head on there and you no longer have to worry about the RAS! I really liked my 2871r on my last SR. I "upgraded" to a GT35r and wished I didn't. Granted the 2871 couldn't get my to my 500+ whp goal which is what I was shooting for, but it was still an awesome performing turbo. That is why I said what I did about 550's. I had 72lb injectors on my car with my 2871 and at 20 lbs on the 2871, they were starting to get stretched.

Looking through your list of future mods, I will recommend a change on a few things. If you are planning on running a 2871 on that engine, those 550's are going to be too small at any thing over 12 pounds of boost. I would at least bump up to a 740cc and think about running the injectors at 4 bar fuel pressure. Also, I dont recommend rocker arm stoppers as well. I know all to well about rocker arms spitting out at higher RPMs, but I would rather spit a rocker then have valve train damage. Also, check out the link I am posting in here about an alternative to AEM. It still runs the stock ECU, but it has the full capabilites of a full stand alone at a 1/4 of the price. Its what alot of the SR guys are going. And if you are not, check out www.sr20-forum.com for more info. Its mostly FWD SR's, but the engines themselves are the same. NEMU ECU: http://www.nismotronic.com/nemu-tuning-package/jktuning/nemu-tuning-package_001_14.php

Any progress on this?

Also the SR has things like oil squirters for the pistons and 8.5:1 compression from the factory(obviously you can change that when you build a KA). A stock bottom end can hold 400hp+ if it is tuned right. Tuning is key with either platform. SR Also has a larger aftermarket support vrs the KA.

Well finally got to the point of starting to put things back together. No the tedious trimming and shaping of patch panels starts. Ended up having to hand fab the panels under the rear hatch plate and a few other parts. I will get some pics up soon.

Thanks. Ya, the SR forum is my 2nd home.. It will be a super clean car when it is done!

Finished cutting out the quarters and found lots of rust in the inside of the rockers, so those are getting replaced as well. Ordered the panels through Tabco. Also began removing the upper deck cap where the hatch latch is, that was rotted out too. Thankfully you can get these through thezstore.com still.

I know this is an older thread, but I just ordered panels through Tabco. Don't go by their prices on the website, as they are old. They are about the same price as black dragon and thezstore. When I ordered panels from the other 2(BD and Zstore) all had tabco stickers on them. Shipping was better priced through Tabco.

I will be painting it white. Pantera hatch will actully be coming off. I dont think it will jive real well with my plans. Its in the FS section right now, but I think I may hang onto it for a bit. Update as of today: Got the rear quarters cut off on Wendsday night. Got all of the glass out yesterday. I plan to blast the inner wheel tub and repair some rust on there. Also going to blast under the front fenders and apply POR15 to all areas. Then all of the metal work starts. I will update this weekend with pics.

I took this off of one of my other forums, that is why it is in a goofy format.

More progress! Stripped the 7...old paint layers off of the car. I did find quiet a few dings, dents and some shitty repairs that were made. Did find a little rust, but not much. Here are the pics of the progress up to this point and the damaged areas. Rust in the inner well on the drivers side. I have both rear quarters/wheel wells on order along with a few other patch panels. Hopefully to have it in primer in 2 weeks and have it painted mid June.

Here is more progress from a 2 weeks ago Started at noon and ended at 4. Body kit was the first thing to come off. The drivers side paint came off with a scraper... My body guy who has been doing this for 20 years said he has never seen that. Most of the previous paint and primer is off, now just need to work on getting it down to the orange base. Here are the pics of the progress so far. The start... Body kit gone! Onto sanding... Here is where we stopped: Work in progress!