Big Ben

I need a pair of headlight buckets for a Z. I would like to get the metal ones if possible. Paint does not matter as long as there is no rust, and the studs are in good shape. Thanks.

I have a full Arizona Z set up with a 390 holley carb. and throttle cable. I also have a avail a holley blue fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. PM me if you are still interested. I just had this running well before the engine came out last week to redo the engine bay.

Nice progress man.

The rear sections you have in tape are like $40 bucks a piece. Its nice because you dont have to buy the whole rear quarter for those sections. Looks like someone did a bumper delete at some point.

Awesome project! Is the rust only in the lower quarters and spare tire area? They make several patch panels for these cars. Black Dragon and thezstore will be your friend! Also, for larger repair panels, check out Tabco. Nice work so far!

I have been debating on what the swap for mine will be... Kinda wanted to do an SR, but I dont think I can get rid of the Lseries or RB sound.

Awesome man! I think there are a few of us here. I still spend a good amount of time on that forum. And I am sure I will have another one at some point. I always loved my VE.

Same Serban from the SR Forum?

PAINT!! Well the body got painted this weekend. Still have both outsides of the doors and the drivers fender to paint and then its done! Here are some pics! Primer: Sealer: Paint(first coat): Final:

Welds look shitty..I have seen some other their other products and most of it is cheap knock off crap. Buy Mckinney products and a pan from Pat!

Well after a few weeks of sanding primer, re priming, sanding primer, re priming we have the final coat of primer to scuff and start shooting. I ended up with a gallon of PPG concept paint. It will be painted QM1 Nissan cloud/avalanche white. Painting starts tonight and we should wrap up painting this weekend. I am painting the doors, cowl hatch and hood off of the car. This will take a lot longer, but I can get paint in places I couldnt with the parts on the car. Updates with pics this weekend!

Did you check Mckinney or wiring specialties? They may have some cheaper plug and play options. It shouldnt have had any theft or security work arounds needed. It may have had a clutch switch/neutral safety switch you may need to fool. Best thing to do is study a wiring diagram, look at the modules it needs to power up and look for power and grounds to the ECU. I have not personally done the swap, but it shouldn't be THAT hard to figure out and really no different than wiring up an OBD1 harness.

Thanks, that is the stuff I am looking for. I will be taking a hand full of body bolts in today to fastenal and seeing what I can accomplish. I am in need of door, hatch, fender and body bolts as I am just about to start putting everything back together after an almost full resto.

I am looking to replace the hardware and fastners when I start putting my car back together. I did some searching and could not find any threads specficily about this so I thought I would start one. I am looking to see if anyone has done the same and knows where to get the hardware for these cars from a more local option like fastnal or someone like that. Part numbers, what to order, etc. I am not looking to replace it with factory bolts, just want new. Any ideas? If not, when I do come up with numbers and what not, I will post up.

Car looks great! Always followed your cars when you were on the SR forum. Liked the RB build on the 71 as well. Again, looks awesome!

No sure, Tabco didnt list it on their site. Looks like they did do a recent update to their site pricing wise. Unfortunately, you can't get them any other place and they are next to impossible to find with out rust or really remove easily with out damaging them and they know that. Most all of black dragon and thezstore's patch of repair panels are Tabco's anyways. I will say most of their panels were great quality and made from Galvaneil(spelling?) which is good anti rust panels. I had to do a little modification to some of the panels, but thats to be expected.

I got it from thezstore.com and I think it was $150. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01b/30-7291

No, I have one as well. In post #12 it is with the rockers and the quarters. I wanted to primer and rust proof under it before I weld it back on.

Getting closer. Started blocking the primer this weekend. I have to get some finish glaze on this week, prime and block again. HOPEFULLY this weekend start painting.

All rust repair done.Quarters are done. Rough mud work is done. First layer of primer is done. I am in process of sanding down both door and the hood(stock). Have to block down the primer, put glazing mud on and sand, prime again and then block again. Should be in paint in the next couple weeks!

Lots of updates. Copied and pasted...so if it looks a little off thats why. Windows, fenders and trim off/ Quarters cut out Rear deck plate was rotted: Hand fabbed the replacement panels: Ended up finding a shit load of rot under the drivers door sil and have to cut a chunk of that out. Ended up having to replace both rockers, rear inner fender wells and rear quarters. Here is the metal:

Sure you can build almost any engine to last and out perform the next, but then money and common sense hit. I am sure there are several motors out there that can "take" 5-600hp stock. But its reliability that is the key. I have personally seen SR's take mid 400's for years on a stock bottom end, but I have yet to see a KA do the same. You say oil squirters and crowned pistons don't matter, but I don't think that's the case. Turbo motors are built to be turbo motors. We can go round and round on this but ultimately it comes down to opinion and a persons leg humping factor. You can prove an engine one way or another all day long and a person would still believe it either way.

Most of the SR's that blow up are from poor tuning or poor craftsman. I have not seen many properly built KA's stand the test when. The SR's poor valve train issues are solved with a VE head. SR is a built proof engine and will outlast any KA built to the same specs. The SR was a factory designed turbo engine and the KA is not. Sure you can probably make a KA have the same power and maybe gain a little more TQ out of the displacement, but it will not take an ass whippin like the SR will, at least not for an extended period of time.

Is this a stock turbo SR? Check the clip on the wastegate to make sure that is still there. It does how ever sound like a boost leak or some type of vacuum leak. Check again for boost and or vacuum leaks.

I have a set of fiberglass ones that I would be willing to work something out for a set of metal ones. PM me some pics of the metal ones.