afbrian13

Just wondering if anybody here has a 4.6 Mustang and how they are to drive. How does it compare to your Z, and to what level of mods do you think need done to a 280z to match the performance? Anything you like better about the Mustang vs the Z? vice versa? Thinking about getting a 96 convertible with some mods and just wondering how it compares. All I've had are trucks of many sorts and my 76Zed. Thanks for any input!

I would vote against probing the insulation. There are enough places to break the system open you shouldn't need to do that. One nice thing about the design of the datsun wire plugs is that you can get a meter in the back side of pins in each plug. Be careful taking a car to an "electrical guy". As an aircraft electrician I can assure you most don't have a clue what they are doing any more than you do. Plus-I bet you know your Z better than everybody else local to you, at least thats what I have found. Grab a wiring diagram and get started-Have fun!

Thats one thing you can do-pull the bulbs from the marker lights in case one of them burned out and internally shorted. Its funny your having this problem because I just fixed the same thing (couple days ago) All my gauges and marker lights went out, but I still had headlights. Turns out the green-white wire coming out of the top of my headlight switch popped off. soldered it back on - gtg. That one stupid wire runs to all the lights except headlights, and all the gauge lights. It was pulling 6.5 amps on my car. Pretty sure thats why it heated up and un-soldered itself.Its up there under the plastic housing around the steering column. I'm running a 78 combo switch on my 76 because years ago thats what I had when my 76 switch fell apart. I just used the old switch to make an "adapter harness" from the 78 switch to the 76 car wiring so I can easily swap it back, if I ever need to. For a suspected short that keeps blowing fuses find some places to "break" the system. Wherever there are plugs under the dash you can unplug it. If it still shorts out its closer to the switch, if it stops it is in the part you just isolated. You said it started when you adjusted the dimmer. Thats a rheostat that is on the ground side of ALL those lights. They are all grounded though it (in a manner of speaking) if it broke inside that could be your issue. Hope some of this helps and good luck.

Im lucky as my cap is held on with velcro. I did forget about the screw under the dash besides the one you can see when I went to change my tach. Theres 2 screws-don't forget the bottom one.

That would be really cool to have or make. Again, any installed pics?

You can spot all the Datsun's in Cars 2, and your 5year old girl spots them too! (Thats looks like your "racecar" Daddy!) I don't have the heart to explain to the 5 and 3 yo that N/A zx motor+stripped interior+5different shades of black spray paint doesn't = racecar:-) My wife started pointing out Z's to me while we're driving too! When your 5yo girl and 3yo boy know the "trick" to get the passenger door opened and closed right!

I tossed an 81 motor and trans completely stock in my 76 a few months back. Its has about 140,XXX on the motor, runs great (for a stock N/A) and hasn't given me a sputter even through the winter at sub-30deg days. Who ever heard of a Nissan/Datsun I6 ever being anything but rock solid? I'd buy it. Matter of fact, I'd love a 83 as a daily so I could have t-tops!

I was thinking as I read some reviews of the latest greatest 370Z about a pure opinion question. Barring cost, no money involved, what would you choose.(Obviosly this assumes you like older Z cars and not just the newer ones) A brand new whatever factory option you wanted 370Z-congrats heres the keys or An old 240/260/280 or your choosing, speced however you want. Whatever motor, suspension, interior, etc. Snap your fingers there it is. To me it comes down to personality. If I could have a car with the same specs and drivablity of a new Z, but wrapped in an old shell I'd be all over it. What do you think? How would you spec it-assuming you choose the old car? Brian

I was looking at the adapters by Mckinney MS for the S13 struts. I know they are machined for the Megan struts and thats what people have used with great success. Has anyone used Tanabe coilovers? I have a line on some for a few hundred bucks slightly used and figured if they thread on to the same adapters it may be worth it. Any info? Thanks Brian (BTW-I still might make a mock up of my last posted idea for a different type of mount)

I'm thinking on an idea but haven't bought any S13 struts yet. Does any body have a total length for s13 struts? I'd really like to know the overall length, compressed overall length (which should be the stroke.) I've been looking all over and can't seem to find a table of specs. I'll sketch out what I'm thinking, but I just need those ##'s. Thanks Brian

Skib- Where'd ya get the rastsun knob?

Maybe I'm just not aritculating my idea the right way. Basically you would be able to take an off the shelf assembly and bolt it in. The mods to the z suspension wouldn't really be more than the work with the tubes. I like how the adapter sleeves work out, but I was under the impression they were being made on an order by order basis and were not the easiest thing to fabricate. I saw sombody was selling adapters for the rear to use the s13 bottom mount, but not sure who it was. I'll look, and try to make up something to explain better what I mean about the front mounts. Thanks for the input. I'm just brainstorming ideas over here. Brian

I've been researching all the different methods of modding the Z suspension from the cheapest hack job to full race, full custom setups. I really like the s13 swaps with the custom machined adapter sleeves. But I think there might be a different way. What about cutting the Z strut off, welding on a tab/bracket so you can bolt the s13 strut assembly on as is? At least this would work for the fronts. It just seems like it would be easier to make a lower strut mount to run a bolt through and use the stock lower s13 piece. does this make sense to everybody? The offroad guys weld these up all the time and they hold up fine. Any thoughts?

Maybe I'm being dense, maybe I'm tired, but I can't find it/ can somebody post the link to putting s13 struts/coilovers on a S30? While I;m at it, wasn't there someplace that listed strut sizes? tube length, shaft length etc for different struts? Thanks Brian

It sounds to me like a bad ignitor. As long as everything is wired right, thats it. I'd check my notes but I sold the ZXT motor and gave the guy my notes and a step by step writup how to hook it up. They aren't cheap, but at the J/Y alot of 80's nissans like stanza's and pulsar have an ignitor too. Thats what I wired up for less than $5, and it worked great. The transistor nissan used is an odd one. Our circuit repair section and an electronics warehouse couldn't match it, but we were working with the blown one. J/Y is the cheapest option. I fought with mine for a long time before giving in to the ignitor. Good luck.

funny you said a8L, my friend has one-nice car! Pretty much I decided that since I have tons of plans for my Z, drove the A6 and then my Z(with no interior, a cobled up exhaust, leaking window seals and all) and had more fun in the Z, I already have a nice truck, the wife has a 2010 van for the kids, I'm keeping the Z. I dropped my daughter at school and even in present condition the kids all think its the coolest thing in the world. My car is by far the oldest in any parking lot on any given day-especially as a daily driver. For the record-I was trying to buy a late 90's a4 with a blown clutch to use as a beater car-rough aint it? Guy decided to keep and fix it though. I think there are to many intangibles when it comes to an old car. Thanks for the input everyone. I don't think I'm going anywhere. Well, that ratsun site is pretty cool sometimes....

Again-thanks a ton. I understand the info you gave saved a ton of research. Cutting without the parts- thats just silly. Why would somebody do that? Its like pouring a foundation then designing the house-but I know why you said it. I already have a urethane bushing kit. Swapped the steering coupler, rack bushings, and mustache bar(that had to be done, they were broke and the car squatted and clunked every time you aplied some power)I was going to swap out the other bushings on the extra suspension that I was going to use for the coil overs. Doing everything on the bench or in a press is much easier. I've swapped all the bushings on a 720 4x4 and most needed burned out.-amazing handling difference though! BTW-steering rack bushings are easier without a motor in the way! Still have to do the sway bars and make some adjustable end links until I buy some stiffer bars. I know that will help a lot. For welding it I'm good enough for function, but I have a body guy - and farm boy - for a good buddy. He used to build dump mechanisms for contruction equipment - We'll get it welded straight. I really don't want a small wheel until after I (maybe) add power steering. I am going to add a tilt column though. I had a little grant wheel when I got it and after my dad haviing a 240, I like the stock size wheel. Maybe A "D" wheel would work. I'll send John an email with what I'm looking to do and see what he suggests. Thanks again, Brian

Leon-What I was saying was an example, not an exact #. I read them and re-read them and completely get HOW to do it, its just ariving at some of the numbers I was asking about. I've got some $$ to use, but not enough to take a guess. Rebekahsz-THANK YOU. Thats pretty much what I was looking for. I would love to road race a car, or at least autocross, but that is so far off right now I'm not worried about it. What your talking about is what I'm looking at doing. Let me take this one thing at a time. I have a complete extra suspension off a 78 parts car (mines a 76) to play with, so my car wont be down at all-great way to learn. I suppose a "ground control kit" would be an easy way to start-same effect as normal drop springs but a coilover setup right? cut the perches off, slide on some sleeves and be about the same height as a "normal" drop spring. I'm game for starting a step beyond that. I like being able to just swap out for the stiff rears to drag race, etc. Thats part of the idea. I've read about different springs and strut combos. One reason I want coilovers is I've read a ton of bad things about springs bunching up, spending a bunch of $$ on a set and being to stiff/to soft, etc. I love how cheap these springs are by comparison. I'm always looking at ways to update things on the car to more available parts like this. The good ol days of tons of Z after market support are going away I think. Plus it will handle much better in the long run. One of the things I was wondering about was the top spring seat. I'd seen in the faq's about shaving down a billet treaded nut, welding it back to the top etc. seems like if your going for a street-ish setup you could cut 2inches out of the tube, weld the stock top threaded part back on, get the right length strut insert, slide some sleeaves down, 225 and 275lb springs (I want to have my spare tire and whatever daily junk in the back)bolt in camber plates with the right top spring mounts in it, and get an alignment. I know that over simplifies it-but its really not that complicated. What am I missing? What struts did you go with? To me if you can get a decent set of struts that already match the top mounts, why should I get some I have to modify? I want the most bolt together parts I can get. I don't like cutting new parts I just spent $$ on when I could have just bought the right part. I was going to go with tokico blues and drop springs (to mixed reviews), but I might as well just do this instead and be better off. I don't mind the Z riding a bit rough on the street. My truck is a leaf sprung superduty, and before that was a 70 4x4. It would have to be pretty stiff for me to mind, especially if its handling like its on rails. My current motor is a stock 81 140K miles. I know its not full power, but a good rebuilt one is enough to get you in trouble-of course so would a v8 I'm trying to get the suspension, brakes and body gtg first. Whats the simplest/cheapest but effective means to accomplish what we're talking about? What struts should I go with? Sorry if I'm going on and on, just don't want to screw it up! Thanks again! Brian

76 280z I was going to go with tokico blues and AZ springs, along with my urethane kit for an easy fun streat setup. I started reading through coil over threads and realized it my be entertaining to give it a shot. I realize I don't NEED coilovers, but it would be a fun project, and conversation piece. I read through everything I can find, and all the writeups are for full out racers it appears. Has anyone done a coilover for only a couple inch drop? If you went with shocks with a 2in shorter extended length, would you have to section the tubes? I'm talking about going coilovers, but not dropping it alot. It would make it so you could run Honda backspacing wheels( I test fitted a set from an accord, cool looking 17's, and the only reason they didn't fit was they just kissed the spring perches) You could drop it low for a car show, parade , or pics if you wanted to. Have any of you done this? Any writeups, pics or suggestions of where to look? I have an extra stock suspension set that I'm talking about playing with, and doing all the work myself. Thoughts, ideas? Thanks, Brian

I was thinking of the maximas column since that style max is a 280zx with a different body on it. i suppose the stock Z wheel would go right on there too, just be abe to tilt? That would be great becaus eI really don't want a small wheel without power steering. mpramsey-I've thought of doing a PS swap and routing the shaft like that, plus it would clear a nice 4.6 v8 header very well. Thanks for the ideas. Brian

I'd like to see too, anyone?

I think instead of getting the 240, I'll just keep this one, spend 1/2 the $$ i would have used on the audi to build my Z.