The Woj

Sorry about the very late response, I don't come around here very often anymore. I don't know what year my 4L80E is, I am pretty sure I was told it was off of a 3/4 ton truck and it was sitting behind a 454 (which made it a bolt on in my car). I am using the Lokar firewall mount dip-stick for the 4L80E. The cooler fitting should be apparent in it's intended function when you pull it out, mine had a tube that was several inches long reaching into the transmission.

I think we have a winner, wasn't sure how this would be the answer on a carb'ed car but this post seems to confirm NewZed's answer. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77476-speedometer-question/ I guess it was just a thing for the Hitachi carb'ed cars, as it seems the 70-72's didn't have this box and the 280z's had a similar box with different wiring.

Forgot to mention this is on a 73 240Z.

Does anyone know what this is? It is a small box mounted to the back of the speedo. The red wire goes into the speedo next to the high beam indicator light, and I don't know where the yellow wires went as I pig tailed them a long time ago. The outside of the box says "132", inside the clear top I can read "XP-34". The FSM refers to it as a "Switch Element", I am not sure what the heck that means. Thanks!

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I clearanced a bit for the plug on the drivers side. Just to reiterate, make sure you use the rear cooler fitting that came with the transmission, otherwise you will be doing a tranny rebuild shortly down the road.

I was the one that purchased the Cable's old BBC-powered 280Z. I initially replaced the TH350 with a 200-4R but quickly asploded my cheap eBay transmission. After talking with Cable, he convinced me to purchase a 4L80E (and got me a hookup from a friend on the actual transmission) and I went to town fitting it. I did not move the engine mounting location at all when installing the transmission, but the transmission mount had to go back several inches. If you look at my mounting plates, I believe the crossmember was on the middle set of bolts and the transmission mount was going through the offset hole rather than the centered one. The only clearencing I remember doing was where the main computer plug goes into the transmission - it sticks out kind of far so I had to add a little room with a hammer in order to plug and unplug the tranny. Additionally, I nixed the front transmission coolant line and went with a brass fitting from the parts store. This screws in and doesn't leak, though technically it's the wrong thread. I was using a brass fitting on the back of the transmission also, but ended up burning up the rear of the transmission and doing a $1000 rebuild because the stock fitting has a pipe in it that drops the fluid onto wear items, which the brass fitting does not. I have included pictures of my cut down and bent piece of stock cooler line that I ended up putting in. So, to summarize pictures: 1. Torque converter size difference between 4L80E and 200-4R (I never put the trannies next to each other, only in a line which isn't a very telling picture). 2. The ear on the transmission that has to be cut in order for it to fit in the tranny tunnel. It is in the bottom left of the pic and has a line cut across it already. 3. Part of the original mounts in the tranny tunnel that had to be cut off. 4. The top of the transmission crossmember showing the mounting hole dead center. 5. The mounts on the car from the bottom of the car. 6. The mounts as they are inside the car. 7. The hard line I pulled from Pick-a-part. 8. The cut down hard line (before being flared) 9. The engine as it sits in the engine bay, showing proximity to firewall. The remaining pics show the TCU I used, and how I mounted it and the wiring for it. If you have anymore questions or I glossed over anything let me know.

Without searching, I swear this has been discussed here before. Mainly because I remember a short discussion of this car (not realizing up until that point how the exhaust was routed): READING

They ship to the states...

Found it on eBay, got mine coming. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomy-Tomica-C-30-Disney-Pixar-Cars-Mahhamatsuo-Datsun-240Z-Standard-Type-/390384067978?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item5ae4b4258a

I bought and installed this kit from Shaun. All of the hardware to perform the swap was included and he was quite good about answering n00b questions I had during the installation process. The car doesn't run yet so I can't answer any questions as to how they perform, but the handbrake works great.

Bump!!! I am going to make one of these bars to mount 5 pt harnesses in my car until which point I decide to put a cage in. I noticed that the OP used .25" plates for the mounting points, I only have .12" and .33" stock on hand. I spent 1.5 hours making a 14" cut in the .33" steel with a 3" cut off wheel before I decided it was way too thick. It seems to me that .12" would be a good thickness for these mounting plates, especially since they are only mounting to 20ish gauge body steel. Am out of line? Does anyone disagree?

Back when I was doing this, I tried to thread on a nut and pound it with a 5lb sledge to get the spindle moving, here were the results: Ruined my 1/2" 17mm impact socket too I then broke down and bought a puller, here's how the pins came out: I didn't bother trying to unscrew them from the puller, I did the therapeutic thing and just threw the whole thing away to block it from my memories.

While digging some more I found this: Oh well, the prices are fair anyways.

All of the codes I found were from Christmas time, and were thus expired. I read some threads in other forums of people-turned-coupon-beggars and the threads were saying that of late Summit has been more frugal with their discounts of late.