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The Woj

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Posts posted by The Woj

  1. 611hp??? Doesnt that sound a bit too little for a quad turbo v-12??

     

    That's a 3.5 Liter quad-turbo V12. Pretty much any v8 will displace at least 50% more. And, the quad turbo's don't really add more power than a single turbo, just allows for better spooling. 611hp is really quite amazing to me for a factory 3.5 liter engine (until accounting for the fact that it's a v12 Bugatti).

  2. I am going to assume you are using a PC, and thus recommend a program I used to use for converting video called virtualdub. I know it could convert almost any movie I imported into it, but that was before cameraphones so I don't know about 3GPP.

     

    Best of all, it's free.

     

    It will also show you what your output will look like, and allow you to change a myriad of settings with the video.

     

    Hope that helps.

  3. Well, I drove the 500zx to La Habra and back (~22.5 miles either way) with the now clean[ish] IAC and it was giving me a little grief right after reinstalling it but a few hours later on the way home was doing great. I think the last bit of electrical cleaner must have dissipated in that time.

     

    Once again, a big thanks for all the suggestions.

  4. I'm not too sure how much I want to modify this motor. I need the thing to pass smog every 2 years, and I'm not really in the mood to switch parts around to get it to pass.

     

    As for it being HO, he said he put "HO heads and a hot cam," I did notice the upper intake has HO cast into it under the 5.0 plate.

     

    I cleaned the IAC housing liberally with electrical contact cleaner earlier - it seems to have a lot of gunk plastered to it still, but there was a lot of dirty crap that blew out of it too. There was maybe a 1 x 20 inch layer of oil floating on top of the puddle of cleaner.

     

    I really need to get a multi-meter. One of the guides I was reading said to test the IAC contacts on the harness and sensor side before cleaning. I'll just hope the cleaning works for now, I guess.

  5. Well, I finally got back around to this project.

     

    Thanks everyone for their advice, I think Lason hit the nail on the head. I unbolted what I'm pretty sure is the IAC and it seems pretty damn dirty:

     

    dsc001920nw.th.jpg

     

    Unfortunately, I got around to this at 11:00 PM so cleaning is gonna wait til tomorrow (I need to buy some carb cleaner).

     

    My new question is, do I unscrew the two parts of the IAC housing for cleaning? Here's a pic of the screw(s) I'm talking about:

     

    dsc001937qk.th.jpg

     

    Also, I performed an accidental benchmark and now know this is probably my problem. When I put my manifold back together yesterday I forgot to reconnect the plug for this sensor, the engine was performing exactly the same (death during unassisted idle and trouble revving). One thing I did note after putting my intake back together was that my idle seems to be lower than it used to (around 650 RPM now, without IAC sensor too). I guess it should still be able to idle at 650, so I'm not going to worry about it.

  6. Dead puppies

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

    They don't come when you call

    They don't chase squirrels at all

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

     

    My puppy died late last fall

    He's still rotting in the hall

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

    Mom says puppy's days are through

    She's gonna throw him in the stew

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

     

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

     

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies aren't much fun

     

    Dead puppies

    Dead puppies

  7. Have you considered a turbo swap? I'm doing one right now, and the major cost so far has been buying tools, which if you already have makes it fairly inexpensive.

     

    I paid $700 for my turbo car which ran but was in crappy condition (dented, rusted, torn up). Past that, you don't need to buy a swap kit or any of that. You will need to convert some of the systems (like the fuel tank) to work with FI. But, for that specifically you only need to find a fuel tank from a 75 or 76 280Z.

     

    As per power, boost is the limit. You won't get 350-400whp by just cranking up the boost - but I doubt that it's that simple on a VG30 either.

     

    Just throwing it out there.

  8. Slight bump, but I found this on ebay. Not sure if it's the same as yours, but it sounds that way.

     

    Weber Big Throat

     

    You are looking at a nice upgrade for your fuel injected 280Z or 280ZX. This unit is called the " Weber Big Throat " throttle body which was designed for 1975 and later fuel injected Datsun Z cars. We all know that Weber is one of the top names for performance, remember the old 240z cars with triple Weber's? they were awesome. This Big throat throttle body measures 60mm vs the smaller stock throttle Thus allowing more air flow for your engine. As we all know the more airflow you can get into your motor, the more power it will make across the power band. It has a rubber adapter piece on the end with the clamps, the instruction sheets are also included but are a bit soiled. This " Weber Big Throat " looks great, it is offered with No reserve .
  9. Redneck Wind Tunnel:

    1.Find deserted highway.

    2.ignite smoke bomb attached to car in strategic location (in front of windshield' date=' on top of roof)

    3.Drive real fast

    4.Have buddy drive beside you while third buddy in passenger seat videos your car.[/quote']

     

    Who needs a smoke bomb, just get a Z that smokes already.

     

    Ahh, fond memories of my first Z - too bad I was more interested of not dying of smoke inhalation and not of aerodynamics.

  10. Found this in superboosted's store.

     

    I haven't been playing with forced induction for very long, but I've never seen anything like that. Is it a new concept?

     

    Also, I looked up charge cooler on ebay and found truck intercoolers, is there another name this thing goes by?

  11. Damn, I've been seeing that car for sale for around a year now. It's a wonder that it doesn't sell. I'm pretty sure it has been listed on CA craigslist and has been on ebay a few times. Not to mention, I'm pretty sure it used to be a little under $40,000.

  12. Ok, so I tried to start the car again earlier, and it started just just fine. It was still almost dying at idle, and it was still having trouble with about 50% throttle from 1000-3000 RPM. I noticed that it almost died when the throttle was depressed.

     

    I checked out the intake and all of the hoses and such around it, and I think I found my problem. Well, if it isn't the problem it probably should be.

     

    I have included a couple of cameraphone pictures of my intake, the first shows the location I am talking about and the second is a closeup. What I found was a rubber large rubber hose clamped onto a smaller rubber hose in order to act as a turnaround. I do not know what these hoses are routing, but it seems like a shoddy way of doing it. If I remember correctly, the top hose had one or two sensors attached to it on the other side of the air filter.

     

    trouble029ng.th.jpgtrouble010vi.th.jpg

     

    On a (hopefully) unrelated note, the previous owner also mentioned that it was going through water pumps every few thousand miles. I think I found the astoundingly obvious reason why this is occurring, but would like to see if you all think the same way. Here is a picture of the lower radiator hose going to the water pump (the upper one is also like this at the connection):

     

    trouble035td.th.jpg

     

    Could the kink be causing the water pumps to be going bad?

     

    Thanks for the help,

    Greg

  13. I might have found the problem. Whenever I hit the gas on the car (while it was running) I could hear the sound of air coming from the engine and the throttle response was relatively slow. This would occur for a second or two and then everything would return to normal. Furthermore, it sounded like it was being sucked into the engine. I knew this was out of place but just brushed it off as a peculiarity of the engine. I was reading through some troubleshooting and someone mentioned vacuum leak. I googled it and it sounds like what is occuring on my engine. The guy I bought the car from said he pieced together several intakes from mustangs to get it all working.

     

    So, could vacuum leak be causing my problem?

  14. Found this posted here.

     

     

    1983 Mercury Grand Marquis

    Ignition System Malfunction When starting When warm

     

    Q: I have a 1983 Mercury Grand Marquis, 302 v8 EFI, with the duraspark III ignition system. This problem just recently started.

    The car starts fine when cold, but after about 4 or 5 minutes the car shuts itself off, and won't start again for about 10 to 20 minutes.

    I had the ignition module tested and it checked out as good. I haven't had a chance to check the crank case position sensor yet.

    Do you think that might be the problem?

    I checked the ignition coil after the car stoped and there is no spark, but the engine turns over like it is trying to start.

    And i found out that if i turn the key from off to start, about every 6th try i get one spark, and thats it.

    Any suggestions?

     

     

    A: Crank case position sensor???. I guess you mean crank shaft position sensor. That could be your problem. It has happened before.

     

     

    So my next question would be: is it a good idea to add an aftermarket ignition and would that solve my Duraspark problem (assuming it is Duraspark)? Any system I install will have to be smog legal, too (I'm pretty sure there are many smog legal aftermarket ignition systems).

     

    How hard is it to install aftermarket ignition?

  15. Fuel injected, the entire engine including all the smog components are there as far as I know.

     

    I'll look up the ignition problem, thanks. Anything else it could be? Fuel pump? The previous owner made sure to point out where the fuel pump was, kinda awkward and maybe a little suspicious?

     

    Here's a picture of the engine:

    dsc01620r6dp.th.jpg

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