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The Woj

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Posts posted by The Woj

  1. I was reading the description of a roadster on eBay and noticed this:

     

    The H20 is a bored out R16 that Nissan used in forklifts. The motor was a popular replacement for the stock 1600 because it required no retrofitting to perform the swap.

     

    From skimming this thread I couldn't tell if this was a contribution to the thread or just common knowledge though.

  2. I get ~10lt/100km with a 3.7:1 diff... and yes, I drive it like I stole it.

     

    I had to lookup the conversion on google, so just incase anyone else is wondering this is what I found:

     

    10 lt/100Km = 23.52 mpg(US)

     

     

  3. I realized I had not check any Skyline forums. So after checking up on some some, it seems the transmission is the RE4RO1A which was also used in KA24 cars and in the 300ZX N/A. I'm not sure if it was the Z31 or the Z32 that they were talking about. But in answer to my own question, here are the Z32 N/A auto tranny ratios:

     

    1st 2.785

    2nd 1.545

    3rd 1.000

    4th 0.694

    Reverse 2.272

  4. My daily driver is an '05 G35 Sedan, but I have only driven one of the cars on your list (coworker's C5 Vette) and don't have any experience with 90's sports cars. There is really no comparison between the G35 Sedan and the C5 Vette - the Vette is more raw power and stiff ride whereas the G35 is more smooth and slightly more plush. Obviously, this is the idiom that each car is built with.

     

    As per true 90's vehicles (his Vette is an '04), when looking at only numbers most of the sports sedans today are pushing the same kind of numbers as the sports cars then.

     

    If it helps any, the G35 supplies more than enough performance to get one into (or out of) trouble. In my opinion, the G35 has all the performance you really need for a street car and I love mine dearly.

  5. I'll go look around on some of the UK websites.

     

    You might want to try Aussie websites.

     

    From the description on the first video:

     

    4WD V8 Chev Datsun 260Z at the Mt Leura Hillclimb on 20/5/07. Was run at Camperdown, Victoria, Australia, and was a round of the state hillclimb championship.
  6. For what it's worth, my instructor lectured on HD formats right after I made that post (was on lunch at the time). He said there were ~150 HD formats and singled out AVCHD as an example of a proprietary format that is nearly un-editable. It is also currently unsupported on Apple computers (which may not apply to you).

  7. I have seen this topic discussed at CZCs dot com. There isn't much of a consensus, but I have read that at the factory, it was quicker/cheaper to skim coat the roof and sand smooth, than to have a body guy fix the flexy sheetmetal.

     

    Question: Is this supposed to be particular to the roof? I got down to the driver's side rear fender and found more of the same.

     

    1001037iv4.th.jpg

     

    Once again, the layer seems to be really thin and is under the original paint. Am I likely to keep on discovering these little prizes?

     

    You should try and get the roof metal from "oil canning" as much as possible before you re-apply bondo. A friend recommended fiberglassing some balsa wood strips to the underside of the roof to stiffen it. Fortunately, I got it pretty tight with hammer and dolly. Took some time chasing the soft spot around and around.... but I got it tight eventually.

     

    I actually only applied bondo back to 3 very small spots that weren't level. The roof still seems to have enough strength in it, though that is assuming I don't have baseball size hail, pinecones, etc. This is the roof now, it is pretty level though the rattle-can primer job doesn't make it look so.

     

    1001044yz7.th.jpg

     

    orbital sander with high torque, low speed. I am using a 6" to do mine.

     

    Your suggestion has taken much more precedence with me after finding this in my neck earlier:

     

    1001052tb5.th.jpg

     

    I've actually gone through 5-6 wire brushes with all the bristles breaking off before one actually punctured me, I think that's pretty good but maybe it's time to look for something else. (NOTE: I always wear eye protection when using the wire brushes)

     

    That is scary...not looking forward to that with my '72 if they did that from the factory....

     

    It's getting scarier...

     

    Maybe your roof isn't as straight as you think.

     

    I still swear it's as straight as I think, maybe not perfectly level but good enough to pass an up close and personal inspection.

  8. So I finally finish removing all the paint and priming the interior of my 240Z and decide to start on the exterior. From the roof working my way down. The first thing I notice is that the aircraft paint remover is not working nearly as well on the exterior paint. I chock it up to what I thought was really thick primer used on the roof.

     

    1000991wc1.th.jpg1000992fg3.th.jpg1000995el5.th.jpg

     

    But wait, that's not primer - that's body filler. :icon_frow

     

    1000996jd9.th.jpg1000997lh4.th.jpg1000998ml0.th.jpg

     

    But it can't be, I think to myself. I just did the inside roof of my car down to bare metal and there were no indentations, creases, etc. For all intents and purposes, it is a perfectly straight Cali car.

     

    1001012wj9.th.jpg

     

    So I spent about 2 hours with a dye grinder, praying the entire time not to find body damage, rust, or Jimmy Hoffa's corpse. I am pleasantly surprised to find the extent of the damage consists of some pinprick corrosion holes - that's it.

     

    1000999ev7.th.jpg1001004te6.th.jpg1001006oh0.th.jpg1001007zn3.th.jpg1001008yc1.th.jpg1001009ri3.th.jpg

     

    So now we come to my question (and the title of this thread):

     

    Why did someone fill my rather straight roof?

  9. I haven't used Adobe Premier since version 6 or so, but I never really liked it. Last time I tried Windows Movie Maker it was just a big turd and couldn't even do full resolution. This was around 2002 or 2003 though, and I have heard Adobe Premier is a lot better.

     

    The best [cheap] movie editing software I have used it iMovie, but that requires a Mac. If you are a student you can land a cheaper version of Avid Media Composer (what the pro's use) called "Avid Xpress Pro" for about $300.

     

    From personal experience, Final Cut Pro and Avid Media Composer are the best around. Unfortunately, the former is $1300 and requires a Mac, the latter is $5000.

  10. You know, there was a 240Z with a swapped 5.0 motor, nearly done for $1900 on Craigslist just the other week

     

    That Z was on there for awhile, but according to his most recent listing (a 5.0 and AOD for $900), the Z was sold without the engine and tranny.

    • Like 1
  11. My L28ET was missing it's rear hoist bracket, so here's a pic of what I did:

     

    060417164653gm9.th.jpg

     

    The piece of chain going to the far right is threaded through another bolt on the passenger side. I would have centered the middle portion of chain, but I was pulling the tranny too.

     

    The chain was pretty thick, and I couldn't rethread the head bolts too much - but it held long enough to get it on a stand.

  12. Here's some pic's of the destruction I hath wrought. The second pic is looking downwards.

     

    dsc00554qk7.th.jpgdsc00550of4.th.jpg

     

    I only later decided to take off the hinges, so I didn't have much room to work with - thus, I accidently cut into a portion of it I didn't have to. But hey, with the fenders off it now looks like a real long-term project :icon47:

     

    dsc00588yg5.th.jpgdsc00578lf7.th.jpg

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