gonzalezj1943
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Posts posted by gonzalezj1943
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can anyone tell me what front air dam this is? and where i can get it?
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Interesting... I've been thinking about it, and because my car was originally an auto, I never hooked up the back up lights. I wonder if they could be shorting on something and causing the problem.
I have spare bulbs, too. It seems unlikely that I would have burnt out only the bright filament on all seven, but I'll check, just in case.
It sounds like I'm going to be spending some quality time with a multimeter this weekend. I'll let you guys know.
if it was shorting out you would have a blown fuse im pretty sure it might just be your bulbs or you have an open somewhere. Start with checking voltage at the bulbs if you have no voltage start at the fuse and work your way to the bulbs till you find the open. Check the condition of your bulb connectors also
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use a voltmeter and do an available voltage test you might have an open circuit somewhere or really high resistance before the bulbs a simple voltage test will help you diagnose your problem ... or it could be a bad relay or turn signal switch all the lights connect together at the turn signal switch.
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i know its a dumb question but what exactly does the tension rod do ?
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it could be the actual switch its self all the lights are wired to it the switch for your headlights might be getting stuck (the turn signal switch)
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that would be the fuel injector cooler
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i was reading another post on here that said you cou;d just take off the bcdd and plug the holes under the throttle body ... will it affect anything else ? what are the 2 hoses that are hooked up to it for?
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You can delete the Air Flow Regulator, but it come with compromise. I deleted it on my the original BRAAP Z, at the time I was in my 20's and was wiling to tolerate some compromise in how the car ran fo rhte lceanup appearacne of the intake manifold, (see pic below of that car). The compromise for deleting the Air Flow Regualtor is;
1) If the idle speed for a warm engine is anythign below 1000 RPM, then cold starts in the morning or after the car had sat for more than a few hours at temps below 70-80 degrees outside required me to feather the throttlle for a few minutes till the engine developed some heat and would idle on it own.
2) If the idle speed was set to the bare minimum the car would idle without me having to hold the throttle on cold start withe temps in the 40-50 degree range in the morning, that meant a warm engine idle speed of 1100-1200 RPM.
I chose #2 and lived wit it that way for a few years. knowing what I have since learned about the stock Z EFI, and wanting to retain that clean appearance withe stock EFI, intake, its easier to just relocate the Air Flow Regulator to the under ht the intake or the fender and route vacuum lines, one before the TB, the other after the TB plumbed in under the intake for cleanliness sake.
Hope that helps,
Paul
Bone stock EFI, cleaned up, minus a few goodies, only real compromise was the Air Flow Regulator delete, everything else functions as OE.
yeah mine just keeps acting up i guess ill just have to go buy a new one. The noise i was telling you about was coming from the air regulator it just got loud one day iand thats how i knew that was what was causing that ...
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thanks BRAAP....
is there any way i can bypass the air regulator so i dont have to buy a new one
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okay so i finally figured out what it was ...
my air regulator was the thing that was causing me all those problems ...
were can i find a after market fuel rail for my l28?
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Being as the cold start injector doesn't make any sort of noise other than one click when it is activated and another click when it is shut off, other than that it makes no real noise, so what sort of noise are you trying describe? A hissing noise? If so, that is most likely a vacuum leak, which will make a noise, especially at lower throttle settings/idle, and will affect how the car runs while making that noise, i.e. engine breathing air that was measured by the AFM so the proper amount of fuel to combined with it.
If the noise is chattering clicking noise, especially in the neighborhood of 2000 RPM, check the B.C.C.D., put your hand it to see if you can feel it chattering. The BCCD that is the doohickey apparatus on the bottom of the your throttle body. If it is not operating correctly it could chatter and will cause the RPMS to hang at 2000 RPM for extended periods, etc.
As for your cold start injector, move on, quit messing/diagnosing it, that is not your problem. Unplug your cold start injector and forget about it for the rest of your cars life. Better yet, remove it, cap the hole it use to fill and plug the fuel line feeding it. It is a useless injector that sometimes leaks. I have NEVER in ALL the umpteen cold start injectors I have removed from mine, friends and customer Z cars cars since the late '80's (probably as much as 100 or more), from stock to modified Z cars, had an issue that would be resolved if the cold start injector was still there! At the south pole, it might be of use, in most of the continental US within the outside temp ranges a sports car would be driven, it is useless.
thanks man ill check out the BCCD in the morning and as for the cold start its all in the trash now i just need to cut out plates to seal the holes but what you are describing about the BDDC sounds like what going on with my car
the noise im hearing is not a vacuum leak it sounds more like something is spraying somewhere around the intake manifold but can really tell where and i just replaced all my injectors today so its not that but like i said ill get back to you after i check out the BCCD sounds like thats the problem thanks again
the nois sounds like a vvvrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr when its hanging at 2000 back down to idle but other then that car runs great
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how much resistence should the cold start injector have mine shows 5 ohms and the rest of my injectors are between 2.7 - 3 ohms i took everything apart today and still doing the same thing i checked all my connections too...
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iv tried that it still makes the noise it runs good and everything just the rpms drop down slow from 2000-idle ive been trying to figure it out for the last couple days dont know what it is
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very nice car those 17s look really good on it
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okay my car just started doing something weird that it never used to do if i rev it up when it comes back down and hits 2000 rpm it starts makeing a weird noise like if the cold start injector is shoting alot of fuel into the manifold iv had this car for a year and it has never done that it does it starting from 2000 rpm and stops when it gets back to idle the rpms just go down real slow has anyone had this problem before??? its a 1980 280zx
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i want to take the whole cold start system off i saw a few guy that shaved it all off meaning the cold start injector and all the vacume lines what vacume lines do you need and which ones dont you need i want as little as possible under my hood
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i have a 1980 s130 all original i want to take the cold start off to have the cleaner look what would i have to do ? can i do it with that manifold or is there another manifold i have to use
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thanks for finding this iv been looking into putting leds every where on my car i want to see the pics when you get them installed
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just woundering if anyone in cali has a transmission or driveshaft for sale the u joint on my 1980 280zx is busted and they are not replacable still oe i need to buy the whole shaft and from the vibration it messed up the bearings on my trans so i need a trans also if anyone has some laying around let me know
Need help diagnosing gasping engine
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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by bypass the fuel damper do you mean take it off the car and just connect the hoses together? would it effect anything?