Dans toy

what all was done to the chassis to keep from twisting the car? How many hard launches with drag radials have you done?

Appreciate it. I have a similar project in the making with a ford rearend/ drag radials. Its interesting to see that you've managed to keep your car in one peace with your 60ft. & 10 sec. passes. I've previously asked questions on this forum to get some ideas on what is necessary in chassis strengthening for (traction/hp) 1/4 mile cars. My doors close nicely & LOL I want to keep it that way. Dan

Great looking project! Just curious how the rearend and link system is tied in.

One exception to the rule , as I understand it. Most of the roots style superchargers for V8's prefer larger throttle bodies(90 +). Including the smaller 112 magnuson kits (400 to 550hp).

Its a 74 260z . 2001 LQ4 engine with 2005 wire harness(d.b.w.) and a 112 magnuson blower. I don't know how to post pictures but I'll see what I can do. There is somewhat of a picture in my profile. My concerns are that just using an adaptor is not all the elect. issues. Thanks for your comments . Dan

Hoping to get some help on a throttle body change. I have a magnuson blower on a Lq4 motor with a 75mm D.B.W. throttle body . I'm considering going to a ls7 90mm but concerned about any electronic issues. I know that it would require a pigtail change,3 to 4 hole adaptor and tuning changes but not sure about any other electonic issues. Also I may try to adapt an LS7 mass air sencor if possible. I'd appreciate any information. Dan

Hi Phocion, A little something to think about that does take some fabrication skills but very little money. I had clearance issues myself and decided to make my own cowl hood using the skin of a second hood. The cost $20 for used hood/ $20.00 misc body finishing materials. Again it does take some sheatmetal skills and a mig welder but mine was a first attempt and it came out just fine. The advantage beyond cost is the cowl can be made to any size you want. If your interested I would be happy to share some information on how I did it. Good luck, Dan

look forward to prototype pictures and measurements.

Cable, Excuse my redundant question. Did not see that my last post went through. Won't these headers have a collector that plains out on the horizontal under the floor pan making engine height critical ?

Cable, Great deal for a set of headers. The other fitment concern I have is the angle of the engine, front to back, for proper clearance at the collector. I'm not running an independant rearend so the angle going out may be different. IF you have some reference points to determine if this is going to work i'd appreciate it. Dan

I'm also interested but have custom made motor mounts that centers and sets the engine back. My engine setup is like yours, LQ4 with truck excessories/ sanderson 1 3/4 headers. For reference, the position of the engine is such that the front dampner is 3/8" behind the rack & 3/8" above the xmember. Also the third primary pipe on the drivers side header sits directly across from rubber steering dampner (3/8" clearance). Once you have finish your 1 7/8 prototype I would appreciate a little information trade to see if they will work. Thanks Dan

I'm using the summit radiator#380325 with there shroud / ele. fan kit #sum-csum3800. Price $355 if you buy it all together. My 260 had enough room for a thin rubber shim between the frame rails and with some garage made saddle mounts it looks like it was made for the car. good luck

on my 260z I've add a 2x3-.085 full frame with a 4 point roll bar. My remaining concerns are the stiffness in the door area. I'm considering an angle brace off the side of the rollbar passing along side the seat to a point at the feet. I'd prefere not to do this if it isn't necessary .I will be running an engine that puts out about 550 hp & 600 tq(small blower), an automatic transmission (2000 stall),and 255 drag radials. Would appreciate knowledgeable opinion . Thanks Dan

Point take-in . Thanks There are also track requirements based on 1/4 mi. times. May not have any choice . Dan

Cable, thanks for your input. My 260 is likely an early model. The frame support under the car is small and the same on both sides. I've heard thats one of the changes. Also read comments about the unibody thickness being upgraded to a heavier gauge. Does that sound right to you? I'm on the fence with this door support idea. If I go forward with it the tubing (door way stiffner) welds to the rollbar at rib height , passes by the thy area where weld-in support extends up from 2x3 boxed steel that crosses under the seat, grabs the main frame rail then extending to the tunnel where the trans support carries through. The door stiffner would continue down, welding to a reinforced area by the feet then pass through the floor angling into the frame within the wheelwell. I'm confident that this would help with my concerns but its a lot of extra work that may not be necessary and I don't like the idea of opening the car door to a hunk of steel between me and the seat. Good fortune to all, Dan

I removed all heating ac related things on my 74 260z. It was tightly packaged but did come out through the passenger side without dash removal. + side, shed a few lbs.

thanks for the tip Chris.

Cable, curious if you had a frame under your big block car. Dan

Cable Thanks for your input Dan

Lots of interesting cars on Hybrid Z. I've used several good Ideas in building my own project. I have a question reguarding reinforcement in the door area, particularly from Z owners who are using forced induction in combination with higher traction tires for 1/4 mile use. I have a full frame under my 74 260Z with a 4 point rollbar but reluctant to weld in angular support through the door area. Curious what you guys with torque monsters are getting away with. My project uses a 6.0L with a Magnuson112 supercharger, 2000 stall torque converter & 255 drag radials. Appreciate any opinions offered. Dan

Thanks Chris, I"ve had trouble in the past with poorly molded parts. I'll give them a call. Dan

I appreciate the imfo. Dan

HI, Don't mean to steer to far away from the stock bumper talk but I'm curious what you guys think of the aftermarket bumper/airdam? cast in one piece either fiberglass or plastic and who makes a good part. Prefere no bondo work. thanks Dan

I'm also at a crossroad with 2 computor and harnesses from doner trucks. One is a 2005 "Drive by wire", the other a 1999 "cable throttle". Not sure what the camero wiring looks like but the pickup harnesses are really intimidating . Considering painless setup. Dan