The Rototiller

i know this is an old thread but i used the search feature and thought this would be a good thread to ask my question... i want to remove my stock framerails on my 1971 240z. floorboards look good so i am going to leave those alone. what is the best way to remove the stock framerails? should i drill out the spotwelds with a spotweld bit? any suggestions? also can someone provide me with a good picture of how they connected their subframes to the engine framerail behind the t/c bracket? oh i have already studied pparaska's and tim240z's sites and did not see a real clear picture on how this was done. thanks

i think i might have figured it out. the non turbo is a 4 lug and the turbo is a 5 lug.......

i am doing a 5 lug conversion on a 1971 240Z and was out looking around the local pick-n-pull. i found an 84-4/87 300zx but i am not able to tell if it is a turbo or not (it was pretty stripted out). it did have 5 lug hubs on it though. here is my question: what is the difference between a 84-4/87 turbo 300ZX front hub and a 84-4/87 non-turbo 300ZX front hub? thanks

here is the exact pump bracket i am looking for.

Al i was totally blown away when i looked at the pics of your Z. best engine compartment i have seen so far....

does anyone have a stock fuel pump bracket from a 73 240z or a 74 260z that they want to get rid of? let me know.....i am looking for one to mount a holley red pump to. thanks

i am going to use the holley red pump (7psi and 97 gph) and run the fuel through the stock 5/16 fuel line to the edelbrock 600cfm carb (no return line needed for carb) the edelbrock istructions say not to exceed 6.5 psi at the carb. i am thinking that i will lose some pressure due to the smaller fuel line but still be close to 6.5 psi. anyone else have an edelbrock carb that can share some info? thanks

there is no return line on my edelbrock carb (1406 model) i just need to make sure that i regulate fuel pressure down to 6psi. i guess on my 240z, the larger line is the fuel inlet and the other two smaller ones are fuel return and vent line. i should be able to remove the two smaller lines. with that in mind, what would be the best way to vent the gas tank? vented gas cap? thanks

it looks like my 1971 240z has 3 fuel lines. one big one and 2 smaller ones. do i need all 3? i am planning on running an edelbrock carb on my 350 V8. which ones can i get rid of. pics too if you have them thanks

did you guys use the 24" or 36" cable

can someone post some pics or details on how to fabricate a throttle linkage. motor is a 350 chevy with an edelbrock carb. i also have all the stock 240z hardware. i would like to use the steel braided lokar cables. please help thanks

i would like to see a pic of some of his other panels and i might be interested in a set

where do i get fender flares like this sweet looking car??????

one of the things i am planning to do is swap out the differential and change all of the rear suspension bushings to urethane. so using the rear control arms are not an option.....

anyone?

i did a search on this and didnt find much. i could have sworn that i seen a thread on this subject before. can anyone help point me in the right direction? i have 4 jackstands and i want to locate the proper places to set these to jack up my 1971 240z. i need to get under it to do a few things (driveline removal, differential swap, prepare transmission tunnel for 700r4 tranny, ect) thanks

i still have the 280z strut tubes and they have your name on them. i should be doing the stub axle swap next week. i will call you next week if i have any trouble getting the spindles out of my 240z control arms....thanks oh and roseville pick n pull only had 1 datsun Z car, and that is the one i stripped all the rear suspension and r200 diff out of (for $80).....

i just talked to the guy on the phone. sonoma is about an hour and half away from my house and i am planning on going to his shop tommorrow or saturday to look around. i will report my findings..

look i fixed it!!!!!! its amazing what a thread file and a die can do......those threads look brand new. JUST KIDDING!!!!! i pulled another one off of a 280z. this time the threads looked great when i removed the nut. thanks to all who advised me to scrap the old one.

i am not too bummed. i was able to buy the entire rear suspension and r200 diff out of a 1978 280z for $80 at pick and pull, so if one of the stub axles is garbage and i have to find another used one, then its not that bad. i really appreciate all the great advise i can count on getting here.

anyone have one for sale cheap?

your post has given me a idea. i could take a 20mm x 1.50 die and cut it like i have shown in the pic. place it at the base of the threads where i still have a few good ones left. clamp it back together and slowly back it out by hand to repair the threads. i think if i get bottom threads straightened out where the nut rests on the washer i should be ok. ssflyer, what did you use to clamp your nut after you split it? (boy that last sentence could have a whole different meaning if you didnt know what i was refering to)

jon i did cut the peened part off both nuts. i think on this one i did not cut off enough or there might have been some previous damage to the threads that i might have made worse. the other stub axle nut came off with no damage to the threads. as far as the spindle pins go. i gave up trying to remove the spindle pins from the 280z control arms. after you told me that the 280z control arms were slightly different from the 240z ones i decided to use the 280z control arms to test out the new tool that i made. i will tackle the 240z spindle pins in about a week. hopefully i will have more luck with the 240z spindle pins because i really want to use the urethane bushings.