viperredls1z

This is the new and improved fuel line arrangement. Thanks for your input. Dave K.

Good point on the increased pressure over the old system, I better get some protection over those lines. My car is the same way too, now I'll have to do two of them. I have some extruded aluminum that will make a nice skid plate for the fuel lines, just have to come up with a way to attach it without puting a bunch of holes in the floorboard. any ideas?

Remember on a LSX Datsun the oil pan is about 1.5 inches lower than stock. on this car the cross member is droped to protect the pan and to allow room for the steering to clear the stock crank pulley. the cross member should protect the the undercarrage in most situations. actually the fuel lines are protected by the frame rail for the front 2 3rds of the car. This car rides pretty high too. Dave has driven it 30,000 miles so far with the line in that location, the only difference is I had to add a return line next to the original low pressure line. Dave K.

This is week 4 and today was the day the power steering got finished. and as a bonus we got to hear the motor run with wide open headers. we only ran it 30 seconds or so because the radiator is not installed yet. (I will get to that tomorrow) my personal LS1 Z-car is going in next week for dual exhaust and we are optimistic that my old system will fit on Dave's car with minimal massaging. I know Dave is anxious to drive it but the exhaust issue will give much needed time tidy things up. Here is a few pics of the power steering. next week I should have shots of the complete car.

In this picture you can see how I used the original stock O-ring fittings and addapted them to AN fittings by cuting and flairing the original tubes. the GM and Subaru fittings are the same style, and in my case the small GM fitting fit in the large Subaru hole. I still want to find a better way to do this, you would think there would be an O-ring to AN adapter fitting, but I havn't been able to find one, maybe someone here will, I'll stay tuned.

About $7000 turn key and about $2400 for a new T56, or $1200 for a used T56. Dave P. bought this setup from Regal Performance with new engine, new trans, drive by wire module, painless harness, corvette gas pedal, corvette clutch master, camaro oil pan, motor mount plates, (that we didn't use) and custom programed computer. with shipping to my shop was still under 10K. A great deal IMO. Dave K.

tomorrow will be three weeks since starting this SBC to LS1 swap. here are a few new pics of progress. here is a shot of the modified x member, still need to build rack mounts. notice the corvette accessories have been replaced with F body stuff. the vette stuff just wouldn't fit. the alternator hits the strutt tower. this is the corvette motor mount I used on the driver side to help make room for the power steering. the right side is a JCI mount. next week should see the PS install and hopefully hear it run. wish me luck!

There will be a low pressure lift pump to bring gas to the surge tank where it will gravity feed to the high pressure pump. excess gas from the surge tank flows from the overflow line at the top of the surge tank to the main tank. excess fuel from the regulator bypass will be routed to the low pressure feed also. the reason for all this is to provide a constant gravity feed to the high pressure pump and to not have to put that pump lower than the lowest point of the main tank. this allows the use of the stock tank without having to put in extra baffles and sump the tank and keeps the HP pump out of harms way. at least that's the theory, this is my first attempt at this. on my car I have a custom fuel tank that feeds off the bottom but it's not as low as a stock tank so I have room for the pump to sit lower than the tank, but I have starvation problems under hard right hand cornering with less than half tank. BTW Kbhead your sig pic brings back memories

here's some "under construction" pics. engine compartment ready, wiring harness sorted out. [/img] camaro clutch master installed, hose lengthened. surge tank installed. [/img] [/img] cross member tacked together. [/img] just waiting on clutch slave cyl. for engine test fit. I hope to have some pics of engine sitting in car by this time next week. lots of custome work to do for power steering with air conditioning. it looks like I will have to use JCI mounts to position engine and trans, then build custom mounts and remove original mounts from cross member to gain enough room for PS & AC

Sounds like everybody here is trying to to talk you into a turbo L6 (not that there's anything wrong with that). I agree for shear horsepower bang for buck it's the way to go. but to set the record straight in the N/A horsepower department, I had Dave Robello build a 3.1 carbureted motor with a ported N42 head that put out 280hp at the crank on Robello's dyno. by the way, that engine is on an engine stand in the shop right now, just waiting to go back into a car. (hint, hint,)

It will be a Subaru rack. I just finished doing this on my car, and it works great with the GM pump.

Here is a surge tank, I made out of a vapor tank. sorry I cant tell you how it works yet, the car is still under construction. and this is where it goes, fits like it was made to go there. Oh wait... it was.

very liberal use of the word soon!

[/img] [/img] Heres some proof i'm working on it.

I have been wondering about this since I recently put a manual override switch on my fan. Is there a point at witch vehicle speed surpases fan speed and could "over rev" the fan and do damage? or is there always enough resistance to airflow through the radiator to keep this from hapening?

No problem You might have more fun with the 350Z for your first event though. By the way I have extra race rubber already mounted up for both cars, just say the word.

This daily driver V8 Z is about to get a 6 liter makeover. Dave Philipi of Roseburg Or. has owned this car for the last 2 years. and has driven it 30,000 miles. Over the next month or so I will be installing an LS2 crate motor, and new T56 6 speed, along with power steering. (so his wife can drive it too!) I will try to post pics on a regular basis to document the progress. When I get done with the mechanical stuff. Dave's next step will be body & paint BTW does anyone here recognise this car? have any history to share?

There is at least one at Danny's Datsuns in Sutherlin. try him at 541-430-9890

I have been watching this thread for the last 2 days because I am having the same exact problem. and have tried all the same recommendations. even used 2 different pumps to rule out the pump.(this is a car that has been running fine for over 2 years) finally today I rechecked the vent and noticed that even tho it flows air, it wasn't flowing much. so I installed a larger line and it looks like problem solved! I haven't driven it more than 10 min. at a time yet. but it was so bad before I would have noticed in 3-4 minutes. The first time I checked the vent I used compressed air and the cap was off the tank and you could hear lots of air going through. today I blew through it and could tell there wasn't as much volume of air as you would expect from 1/4 in pipe. This could be that stupid simple solution you have been looking for. Good Luck.

You got that right Davy! Paul; check your mail!

Dont know if this helps or not, but here's one way to do it. http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/14408595/238976382.jpg

I was at Dannys Datsuns In Sutherlin Oregon, I went to pick up some parts. after finding a space to park I looked at my car sitting there with all those sad looking cars in the back round and thought, that might make a good picture. You cant see all the cars in one shot but he has about 50 cars there. I'm using the word "car" loosely, most of the good stuff is long gone. If you don't know about Danny he runs ads all the time on zcar.com

Looks to me like you already have a competative OSPO or SM2 car, try a set of Khumo 710's in 225/50-16 (too bad they don't make a 245) it would on those rims. Or get some 17X8 rims and go 245/45. thats what I run, they stick great once they get warm. You will still be able to install camber plates and other suspension mods and stay legal in class.

competition was stiff. http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/10126901/238153823.jpg http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/10126901/238153818.jpg http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/10126901/238153834.jpg http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/10126901/238153832.jpg http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL467/2927792/10126901/238153827.jpg

My JCI story mirrors m1noel's except for the ups problems he had. I got all the same stuff and was impressed with the quality and fit of the mounts. When I had problems with the tach and the speedo x unit, John gave me full credit for both and I just went with auto meter gauges. Sure the price for engine mount kit seems high, but it takes a lot of development time to get a kit to the point that you can sell it, and support a customer base like John has. After all, so far nobody else has thought it was enough money to compete by marketing another kit. Bottom line is there would be a lot less LS1 Z's out there if it weren't for JCI. Thanks John, see there are happy customers out there, we're just not as likely to sound off as the unhappy ones are.