revlis240

good advice, so I will 40-60 grit the trans tunnel (theres no rust on it and its smooth), and scuff up as much of the floor pan as i can before applying the POR. Thanks guys! Hopefully itll come out looking good.

some tiny bits of the goop that held the sound deadening material is still stuck to the floor, if you look carefully youll see it. You dont think i have to scrape it ALL off do you? that would take another 5 hours...

Ive spent 7-8 hours getting the factory sound deadening material off the floor and cleaning them up with a wire wheel on my grinder. Please see the pics and let me know if you think theyre ready for POR15. As i understand it, im supposed to use the Metal Ready and then brush the POR15 on. Supposedly, you dont want to remove the rust and have a shiny surface, you want the floors to look like this before POR15. Right? Advice appreciated! Thanks guys Im picking up a quart of por15 tomorrow, should be enough for the floors right? Also, i think the rear trunk area has already been POR'ed in the past, the part behind the drivers seat was a PITA to strip. Whatever the black stuff was/is, its strong. Thanks guys!

Why not just go to an old camaro and get the clevis attachment for the master cylinder from it rather than drilling and tapping the stock one for a different thread? moreover, is it possible to switch the rods of the master cyl? that way you wont have to worry about the length difference nor the thread pitch difference? Anyone try? Thanks!

lol itll be so tiny! the driveshaft is like only 20" long as it is. Ill have the turbo 350 out soon, my plans got delayed because I may take the engine and trans out together. The way I see it, it may be easier than trying to fiddle with the trans under the car.

after I remove the rust is POR15 the only way to go? Or will self etching primer be enough?

Hey im doing almost the exact swap. I have a 78 350 with a 1985 T5 camaro. Did the camaro flywheel bolt right up to the old 350? I know there are 2 different rear main seal types, i didnt know if itll bolt right up or if ill need a custom flywheel. Thanks

Here is the bolt: The slot you refer to...is it on the cross member, what part on the car that the bolt went thru on the mount? Now is it just me or does it look like whoever installed my kit installed the mounts on the wrong side. Look at the pics above and compare to the pics here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html#flanges What is says is meant for the pass side is on my drivers side. Right?? Edit: I think their picture is wrong because the way its installed is what the JTR manual calls for. Noone has caught this before?

All but 1 of the bolts seem to be able to be removed. One of the bolts on the passanger side (second one from the bottom) is like 1/2" away from the firewall. So im guessing the motor either has to be loosened and moved forward or they have to come out together (motor+trans). Not cool! Did you guys hammer that part of the firewall to make it easier next time or is this just the norm for JTR mount guys?

I can confirm that the spleen count is the same. Im swapping the turbo 350 for the T5 right now, and I just took the driveshaft off the turbo 350 and it slipped right into the T5. Woot. Length...ill get back to you in a few weeks. I doubt ill get lucky twice.

may sound stupid...but try lifting the door lock and then lifting the handle. Thats the only way the drivers door on my parts car will open

I just scraped and got rid of all my stock material. This is what Im left with: Taking a wire pad at the end of the drill would still take me HOURS to remove the surface rust. Is that the solution? My plan was to: Try and remove surface rust (do i use Naval Jelly?) Paint with self etching primer Install sound deadening material Carpet over SD Material Suggestions?

Can I ask a dumb question? Why do we HAVE to cut the floor to mount the fuel cell? Can it just sit inside the trunk with mounting straps? I never plan to take my car to the track, just weekend street driving. someone took all the vent lines and such off my my stock gas tank and I just have this (perhaps wrong) thought that it would be cleaner/better to get one of the summit racing fuel cells and mount it inside the trunk. is there some general knowledge i dont have? or did I miss a memo on why everyone cuts their floor? I searched google and the Grand National guys just mount the fuel cell in their trunk, no cutting. A Tank link this Mounted like this

Ive been reading the JTR manual. I have a 1973 parts 240z and a 1971 project that im building. The 71 will be the final product, it currently has a running chevy 350 in it. The manual states that in 1972 they moved the diff back 2" so that the axles would be perpendicular to the wheels and not have to bend back. This allowed for less vibrations and longer cv life. question: is it worth swapping the 1973 diff mount setup onto the 1971 car? I am very lazy and unless there are major benefits, i could care less about vibrations. Thoughts? Thanks! Abe

Hey guys, im going the same route. what was the solution? is there any guidance you can pass along? thanks!

this may seem a little crazy, but i bought this fully restored "rust free" z today, 1971 with a crate chevy 350 in it. I stumbled upon a deal i absolutely couldnt pass up! Bought the car for the price of the motor more pics soon. Ignore the color, i dont like it either

Hey guys, Here are the pics of the underside. Does this change things for the better, or does it still lend itself towards scrapping this car for a better chassis? Thanks Thanks!!!

guys, on another forum, im being told to find a better candidate for restoration. Is the rust really THAT bad?

For that roof, Do i have to replace the entire roof? Im a little wary of cutting the pillars... Also, for the C pillar that has the hole in it, seems there is rust inside the hole? how do i fix that?

Hey guys, Finally got a chance to strip some of the paint the previous owner had rolled onto the car. Here are some pics and questions: Thats how she sits now How bad is this, would you fiberglass over it or cut the panel?: Does it look like the rear quarters have been cut out and replaced in the past? What are these bondo looking globs INSIDE the rust hole? Thats all for now, I know the passanger floor is rusted as well, but I ran out of energy for today. Please advise! Thanks Abe

right, but prelim research indicates that light duty trucks (S-10s and F150s etc) can be in the same family/classification as cars. you just cannot mix HD with SD... I left a voicemail for the ref, who will supposedly call me back today and we will have our answer!

thats got me a little confused, say you use a motor from a 1975 chevy, which had little to no smog equipment anyway, it would be a lot less hassle to pass by the ref than putting in a LS1 wouldnt it? Also, my reading indicates that the car to truck rule applies to trucks OVER one ton. meaning you can use a 1/2 ton truck motor in a car and be legal. I may totally be wrong, pending further research... Here is all I have found from the BAR so far: CLASSIFICATION Don't mix engine and vehicle classifications which will degrade the emissions certification standards. For example, a heavy–duty engine cannot be installed in a light–duty exhaust–controlled chassis even if they have the same displacement. Non–emissions controlled power plants such as industrial or off–road–use–only engines may not be placed in any exhaust–controlled vehicle. That is from: http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/07_AutoRepair/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html

please excuse my noob question, but just for the sake of being TRULY exempt, what relatively popular pre 75 V8 motors can/do people use? are there any? That way even if i go get sent to the ref, it wouldnt matter...

On this topic...are most of you guys treating/doing your best with the rust? Or are you cutting and welding in new pieces? My car that i just picked up has standard rust here and there, some holes in the quarter panel and roof area even. Would I be best served to take the time and cut out the rust? I would be teaching myself to weld

cable, youre in bakersfield? Cool! Im in Valencia, just picked up a 73Z, we can meet up! quick question about your friend that went to the ref and truck motors. If I have a 73, thus smog/carb exempt, can I put in the LQ4? I know that I'll never have to smog it, but I also know that the CHP can send you to the ref if theyre in a bad mood, then the ref has to sign off that you are exempt but will he still sign off a truck motor? Ive been up for 20 hours and read some of your posts, but didnt get to figure our your opinion on that motor in a Z, do you like it? I will never spend $3k on a motor. I do want the v8, but I just cant see spending that much on the LS1...