Twoeightnine
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Posts posted by Twoeightnine
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Yes.
Japan does have some cool toys.
I was born in Japan. left when I was four but I still remember the toys. Still have a few.
Thanks for the offer Terry!
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Not a sorority chick, but a damn good fishing partner!!
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There was a bunch of water droplets all over the truck (overnight dew). As I drove' date=' I noticed that the water from the hood, and the windshield cowl was actually getting 'sucked' into the opening of the cowl induction of the hood.
Tim[/quote']
Drawn perhaps, not "sucked".
Thats where the tread started was the high or low pressure discussion.
Heres a quote for ya.
"Chevy engineer Doug Roe, who worked with Product Promotions chief Vince Piggins, found a dramatic performance gain by taking the cool dense air at the high pressure area near the base of the windshield. Ducting pressurized fresh cold air from this area to the carburetor creates a more dense fuel charge with increased volumetric efficiency resulting in more horsepower."
I know.....Im being picky.
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Were there any takers?
More pics!
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I'll be back.
Have relatives and property in Polson. they will be here in Texas for X-Mas, I will be in Mt. in the spring. Dont think I can leave the Z home this time.
What was your call on the cooling situation? Let er ride?
Wont need it in the Montanna winter but.....
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See told you.
I had followed a thread last year were a couple of members had mentioned the fender bridge seals. Never had a resolution if I remember.
Did every one reassemble their fenders without the seals? Does it matter?
No one sits on their fender anyhow yes?
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Looks like an Ingersoll Rand? Or possibly a Campbell Hausfeld?
The pro 4000 was manufactured by both.
Not sure about the 60 gal unit but, the 80 gal unit, new, runs in the upper 700.00 range retail. These compressors, regardless of tank size, have been popular for years and parts are plentiful. A bad head gasket will cause the unit to "loose" air while it is in operation due to gasket blow by.
Basicly making it inefficient. Once the tank is compressed, the gasket should have nothing to do with it.
By the way, the 5HP rating means nothing here. Both Ingersoll Rand, Campbell and others including craftman were successfully sued over this electric motors power rating. They wound up being measurably less than 5HP. You will still need at least a 30 amp breaker as well. But if you have priced similar units at 80 gal, the price is right on this one. Look it over!
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Being that you will be in Missoula, you might be alright. No brainer that it was designed to have one, and should have one. If you are like me you will forget and one day it'l get ya. You could probably get it wired just as fast as hunting down the shroud. Got six days!
Say howdy to M town and dont drink too much Moose Drool !!
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What a Bee Eye Tee See Ache.
She wont last long, just enjoy your cup cake.
When your eating one....pretend it's her!
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Lets not forget that "Bondo" is a brand name for a filler that yes, was popular decades ago.
The modern fillers are a whole different animal.
Companies like 3M refined fillers (aerodynamic smoothers) decades ago, for the aerospace industry. That when applied on properly preped surface (rough and clean) would fill a dent 1/4 inch deep by 2 inches wide. And when bent at the repair area, in excess of 90 degrees, would not pop off or even crack!
These types of fillers are on the shelf today. The real "old school" Bondo can't hold up to that kind of aplication for one thing. And secondly, Bondo's reputation was also slughtered by it's missuse. The unknowing, or the lazy, would slap it on thick and even use it to cover large holes! Chicken wire, screws, and a gallon of Bondo.....hole be gone!!
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Very cool J!
I bagged and taged every thing. Was calling around about fastener options. Here in the dust bowl the fastener selection has been hit and miss. The kits are priceless considering the cost of the back and forth/miss match situation that I am facing. I was dreading reworking the original fasteners.
Thanks!Along these lines I have been wearing out the search button looking for what folks in the past have used to replace the fender "bridge" seals. The metal bridges that support an installed fender. What was the "goo" that was used. It needs to be plyable to allow for adjusting the door/fender/bonnet but, then needs to harden and actually support. Or do we even worry about this?
Many thanks!
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Yep.
If your car does the ass slide with no front bite. And does not walk off to the side violently. Your problem rest within the master cly. If you are willing to rebuild it, you can get away with a hone and O-ring deal.
Brakes are important, new is good.
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Food for thought....
A proportioning valve that splits the pressure ratio between the front and rear will most likely "mask" the root cause.
If it is stock as you say then something is dead wrong.
If you have replaced the front pads check them. If not replace them.
If you feel confident that it's not the pads, and both sides of the front are weak, you have no choice but to suspect the master cyl. Its the only place that a stock sys splits front/rear duty.
Think about it, both front calipers equally malfuctioning? Prob not.
The cyl that operates both front calipers being bad, yep.
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As one can see by reading the article on cowl induction, The induction system creates some positive pressure. Its greatest benefit is in inducing "cold" air into the engine. It must have the plennum sealed to the cowl however to perform it's designed function.
As far as heat issues, I would look up front to gain flow. Underpaning of the air dam will provide forced flow. Sealing the plennum will reduce the cowl induction back pressure and gain you HP. Lets not forget the fan as well for low speed cooling.
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(Quote)Any opinions would be great.
Mister, that sounds fun!!
In my opinion, there is no such thing as too much power.
Power management would be in order, from a driver stand point.
Going to need some rubber!!
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Im no expert, but Wayne Guinn is. Check out this excellent read.
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Run!!!!!!!!!!
Take your time. A straight car is worth the money and will save you money in the end. Promise.
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Dude.
Your going to have to track it down, while it is smoking, for any one to give you a diffinative answer.
Wheel bearing?
Ask your self stuff like..does it smoke while sitting? Or after its driven?
Start eliminating.
Jack it, check it, look around.
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Pick up some flat magnets at the hobbie store.
They are great for holding your patches flush with the existing sheet metal.
Go with gas (MIG). Flux core is for fences!
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I purchased a "how to" paint book so that my prep work would be compatable with modern techniques.
The first twenty five pages was on the history of paint finishes!
A layman needs the what, why, and how to. Perhaps a "system" book would be in order. A book that explains a certain paint philosophy from prep to finish. The book that I have did get me to where I needed to be but, I had to fish around quite a bit.
Vids would be great. One could get a feel for the "motion" of the art.
How bout a book that also contains a DVD? hmmmm
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Nice shot.
Glad to see you might have a crack at getting to normal. What ever that is.
Have a great Friday!
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You're assuming something that probably isn't true. Showcars probably doesn't have a rear mold for the part being order. They probably just do a splash off a plug they have had lying aorund for years or try to order the parts from a vendor that they haven't paid for 180 days.
Hey just curious. Not familiar with the term "splash off of a plug".
Is that a one off mold made from a donor auto. Or a mold of an auto used for one offs?
And, I get the impression from their so called "inventory", that the later (vendor use) would be my pick.
Pardon my knuckle dragging ways...
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Because of the camp that it is comming out of.....TT SBC!
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I purchased all of the majors in advance.
New trans, coil overs, eng swap kit, radiator, seals and such.
Still spending on the drive train. Clutch kit is next.
Letting her go to paint as we speak. And I expect that quote to rise.
I had a budget of 6k and have kept the receipts.
Dead positive that I will bust the budget with the purchase of new glass.
Rods....arn't they fun!
Thanks!
Healthy debate wanted....should I flame my Z?
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Nice work.
I agree with veritech-z.
Not the classic from the front but, from underneath and the wells.
Would look trick.