GrayZee

I have always found that posts like this can be very handy because sometimes you need to look it up again. Rather than testing/researching, you just search for that old post and you have it! I figure it would be useful to add the correct pinouts as that will be the next question. RED: +12volt switched source (efi relay) BLACK: ground WHITE: pin# 8 GREEN: pin# 17 To be honest I am only guessing on white/green from memory, I could be wrong. If someone can confirm this, PM me and I will edit it.

A good locksmith can pick your lock and file down a key by "feel" Or, take your lock out and take it in. They will be able to take it apart and cut a key to fit it.

I had a phantom problem with mine a long time ago. I could never figure it out, after trying a ton of other things I finally ripped the harness out and made a new one from scratch. That fixed the problem 100%

Reminds me of a old ClintE movie where he was in a car chase and he turned on the tail lights and floored it. The bad guy thought he was braking and stopped for fear of slamming into him. It was so cheesy.. like that would really work.

Gotcha, wasn't planning any kind of welding so I guess I am good.

Well I got a chance to try the new torch out and man what a difference from my old setup!! Night and day.. Grumpyvette you said that in certain applications that you needed a much bigger torch. I am curious, what did you need a bigger torch for? I can't really imagine needed anything more, at least not in a automotive application.

If that L28 was n/a then it would have needed a fair bit of mods to get a 6.6 IMO, but with a turbo very possible.

That 3 prong style tps plug can be found on TONS of different kinds of Nissans. Just have a look around a local pick and pull, I'm sure you'll be able to find one.

It is a real bugger to get out, I tried a few different methods but gave up and bought one os these... http://www.princessauto.com/tools/auto-repair/auto-repair/8105256-3-jaw-bearing-puller It worked like a charm!

Rick Mercer is hilarious, this is one of my favorite vids..

You can PM BernardD, he has a 83 dizzy for sale I believe.

Ok, that was strange.

Even if you get a brutal launch and your et sucks, the trap speed should still dial in with your weight to get a accurate HP measurement. Dyno's have their uses but they often do not give accurate HP measurements.

I will agree with that, if I could find a 3.36 R200 I would definatly try it out.

I think what jt meant was to unscrew the disposable bottles when in storage.

Good advise. Around here the disposable orange tanks are around $10 and the green bottle refills are $30. Anybody have thoughts on how long the new bottles will last? I found with my old kit I would go through 5-10 bottles of oxygen for every bottle of propane. I am assuming the heavier green bottle can withstand more pressure and therefore hold more oxygen per volume? Also, I think the more you use a torch the more sense it makes to get bigger tanks, I considered getting the bigger rental tanks but I was only buying a few of those little disposable tanks a year I figured I would be spending just as much on rentals as I would on the gas itself. For me it seemed to make more sense to own a tank and not worry about rental fees. If I had a exhaust shop or something, I would get the biggest tank I could.

I used to have a torch like the first pic but after many years the oxygen valve failed. So I bought one like the second pic, it uses a MC and a R tank I haven't tried it yet, how do you think it will compare? I don't use a torch much mostly just for the occasional rusty bolt. The old one did the job for the most part but could have had a little more heat to offer, also it went though oxygen like crazy. Basically I needed a new bottle everytime for everytime I used it.

That explains alot about the different trap speeds.

It is possible to run a Nissan ecu on a map sensor, it has been done on a KA ecu. However this is still un-charted waters, and so far Bernard has not felt like being the skipper.

I have never had any issues from not running one.

yep

Here is some good reads: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/567417-trap-speed-vs-et-explained-here.html http://www.turbobricks.org/resources.php?content=quartermiledyno

I have see some natsy rat's nests of wires underneath dashes. People that installed a alarm 10+ years ago and did a brutal job. The alarm being long gone but the mess remains. In cases like that I agree it's better to rip it all out and start fresh. However, rturbo is right, wiring is a huge PITA and unless you really feel you know what you are dong then leave it alone. You also have to be prepared to spend ALOT of time on it if you want to do anything resembling a good job. Oh and just for laughs I saw one car where a guy had installed foglights and bought a spool of wire to do the job. I guess he didn't have a wire cutter cuz he wrapped the wire around the bumper about a 100 times! LOL

Good luck, and let us know how it works out. btw, I don't understand how a car can get 10 to 20 mph differences in trap speed regardless of 60fts. Unless you are letting off the throttle mid way down the track or something. Last time I went to the track I had BRUTAL traction issues, I ran a 13.4@117.5mph. Now if I was able to get some textbook starts I would likely run mid 11's but I certainly would not expect a 125+ mph trap unless I did something to increase HP as well.

Nistune is good too, I was gonna suggest it but it sounded like you had your heart set on a standalone. You could probably get away with a z32 ecu but you would likely have to mess with the pinouts to get the correct firing order. Not a big deal though.