bsmuwk

Everything is fine on this car, the entire wiring harness is made by me at this point and has no defect. I checked it all again this past day and everything was peachy. Car has been running just fine these past few days. ALTHOUGH, seem to have come across another problem. lol Once I hit close to 5 or so lbs of boost, or depress throttle more than half way UNDER boost, the car seems to dump gobs of fuel. Everything else is perfect - idles on its own. Revs wonderfully. Drives flawlessly when not under boost or under what seems to be around 4 lbs of boost. Maybe a new ECU might cure that as the one of the car I'm very skeptical about, we shall see. Other than that, ideas as to what would cause the car to dump fuel under boost? You can safely assume that EVERYTHING ignition related has been replaced other than the coilpack.

might have just been burned from when i purchased the thing. oh well, right?

It's just one of those deals I suppose. Nothing to say but, "Go Figure" lol i have a picture of the little joint. i'll put it up here as soon as i get it off of my phone. my definitions might be slightly skewed from the norm, but on backside of the motherboard a burnt joint between the two components was my issue. maybe a picture will suffice better than my poor descriptions. all in all, just looking for spare ecus to keep around

opened ECU, had a burned joint on the board. resoldered, car runs. life is good.

just as well, there seems to be a blade connection on the part of the distributor closest to the radiator. what's that for, there are no wires going to it?

just out of curiosity here, will the car run like crap if its in (i'm guessing) diagnostic mode? i think the ecu screw is turned clockwise.

Unplugging the O2 sensor does nothing. I've gotten a new MAF and that hasn't helped. I'm literally at a complete loss with this. Everything's new, seems like the issue surrounds itself around the ECU swap.

CHTS is a no go. Car sputters and won't rev. New Cap, rotor, wires, CHTS, has 300ZX ecu, maf and chopper wheel. is there any change in the timing on the engine with the installation of the 300zx ecu? any particular sweet spot i should have it at with the 300zx ecu? i want to get this thing peppy again

I need more information on this car! That GT wing makes it for me!

Well, there's a CHTS on its way to my door. We'll see what happens. I haven't had the opportunity to do any tests, but if the sensor helps out and fixes things, I'm makin my own damn wiring harness. It's not hard so I'll have no problem doing it lol. Should give me a nice headstart.

Meh, go figure. Time to go bonkers. Lol

The ecu is a turbo ecu from my understanding and research. The part number on the ecu is A18 619 372.

There is no intake backfire, It's running rich.

Well the TPS is replaced and while I still can't find my multimeter, I played with the adjustment of the TPS and it seemed like there was a slight change in behavior, but no dice. If I had the tps unplugged and tried revving, the engine just stalled. I'll assume the tps is functional at this point, but at an unknown adjustment (for now).

Well, I'll be swapping in a new TPS as soon as it comes in the mail. I'll be adjusting per fsm. Checking for continuity at the ecu plug for the chts will be done later today when I find my multimeter. I can't remember where I put it in the past day. Sad? Lol

I put a fuel pressure gauge on the line right after the fuel filter, fuel pressure at idle is 32psi and when I rev the car (with chts unplugged) it sits steady at 36psi. I don't know accuracy of the gauge.

In for taillights as well.

I'll be ordering the CHTS tonight then. Just for clarification, I went out and red the blinks on the ECU and came up with all of these: 13 - Cylinder Head Temp Circuit 21 - Ignition Signal missing primary circuit 23 - Throttle valve switch 24 - Neutral Park Switch 31 - AC stuff 34 - Detonation Sensor 41 - Fuel Temp Sensor circuit In regards to having the car run, I still have my 280ZX knock sensor hooked up. The car doesn't have a fuel temp sensor like the Z31, nor does it have the Neutral park switch. So I'm assuming codes 24, 31, 34, and 41 are not needed. So my problems lay withing 13, 21 and 23? Does anybody else have any inherent fault codes when running the Z31 ecu on an S130?

Well, I have a TON of spare parts for the car that I got from my dad when he gave it to me a while back. It's all ignition related, I know that now for sure with the unplugging of the CHTS, but my question around the issue is WHY? What does the CHTS do when its unplugged?

I haven't replaced the CHTS. The Z31 CHTS is too short to use in the L28 so I wouldn't be getting a decent reading for that anyway. My O2 sensor is hooked up, but I have no clue if its working. The Z31 chopper wheel was removed from the Z31 distributor I got with my swap. I installed it in the same orientation it was in when I received the Z31 distributor. The harness has Z31 connectors. I've shaken and cleaned every damn plug on the engine. Coil and igniter haven't been replaced. The car is getting nice blue spark so I would imagine that wouldn't be the issue? Seems just when the CHTS is unplugged the car has balls until 4k RPM then eats dirt.

I should have those tune up parts in a day or so, but damnit. It was just confusing. The AFM tests bad, I was expecting it to fail, which is why I had my 300ZX swap ready to go in. No issue there, put everything in and the car runs. There IS fuel pressure and fuel flowing. I can clamp off the return line and there is no change in how the car runs, so I'm not associating this with fuel delivery. It seems whatever's happening is ignition related. A very bad misfire with any touch of the throttle. It's got me stumped. I'm ready to rip every wire out of the car and rewire everything and do an LS1 swap while I'm at it. lol

Car ran out of gas on me and I hadn't realized (illegal tow bent up my fuel tank a tad so the gauge reads off). COINCIDENTALLY, I did the FSM test for the AFM and it failed (car was running weird beforehand anyway) put it in a friends car and his car wouldn't run with it either. So low and behold I did an entire 300ZX ECU swap from an 84-86 and the car starts and runs. However, it's running like crap. If I unplug the CHTS the car will rev nicely but under load it will cut out and backfire around 4k rpm. If I have the CHTS plugged in, the car will have a surge in idle, and will fall on its face with just the merest of touch to the throttle. I have new plug wires in the car now (they shocked me when I touched them), new TPS on order, new cap and rotor on order, etc. Any ideas where this could lead? I'm assuming the 300ZX ECU's code blinking should provide me some info as to how I should attack the situation, but I'm curious where everyone else stands on this. Thanks folks.

It's basically whatever that tach uses.

folks, i have a bee r power builder out of one of my old drift cars that i'd like to put in my 280zx drifter. i cant be going on an endless adventure when i hit boost mid drift and i need the bee r to cut in around 6k rpm like it did on my old car. now the unit only needs 12v power (accessory wire), ground (to body) and it also needs an rpm signal as well as an ignition signal. what wires would i need to tap into on an 83 280zx to get the rpm signal and ignition signal? id appreciate the help folks

Would anybody know which wires I could tap into at the ECU to get RPM signal and Ignition signal? I have my Bee R from an old project and need to put it into my 83 engined 280ZX. Drift season is coming fast and I have to limit revs somehow. I can't be staring at this retarded digital cluster hoping I'm not overreving my engine. It's literally just 4 wires to wire in the Bee R limiter (Black = ground, Red = 12v power, yellow = RPM signal, green = ignition signal). If anybody could help me out on that I promise drift vids and Bee-R demonstration. For future reference, I simply wired in a switch to turn on the "launch control" feature of the Bee-R. Far better than wiring it to my handbrake (which I can't do anyway since it's an Isis hydro set up).