Boy from Oz

See the link on post #37, the images there might help. http://www.mototechnique.com/250GTO_p1.htm

I raised the subject of "weld-through primers" on the welding/fabrication forum a few weeks ago but got no posts - this is perhaps a better thread to raise it again. I would like to hear from experienced panel shop guys. The primers are recommended for lap joint welds associated with the frame rails. http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/article/articleDetail.jsp;jsessionid=HHH2Rh37M25tPgyTQlGVLJvBZq1p7Dy5h30yKC5J2PLv483C6L22!332306947?id=35942 Here is some discussion on the topic from Alfa owners - if anyone knows about rust it would be Alfa owners! http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/34075-priming-metal-before-welding.html

Okay, I'll take the bait; it's colour - just ask any English speaking non-Americian! In Keith Bluemel and Jess Pourret's book Ferrari 250 GTO they state that about two-thirds of the GTO's left the factory painted in Rosso Cina but many were painted in team colours before they raced. The other third were non-red colours (white, green, blue, etc) and some of these are now red. According to Europarts, up until 1980 the paint used by Ferrari was acrylic produced by Glidden Salchi of Milan, comprising 11 solid colours and 10 two-pack metallic finishes. From 1980 the paint manufacturer was Glasurit, and the range of colours available changed over the production period of the cars. Here is the Europarts listing. http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/ebayShop/PaintCode.htm Glasurit do not list the colour on their website. http://www.glasurit.com/COLOR/new-color-online/m1frameset.php?language=1 Here is a sample of the stickers currently available on the Europarts site. You can buy a Glidden Salchi sticker and stamp Rosso Cina on it. Also to quote Mr Bluemel: "Principally, Scaglietti-built cars were delivered with paint manufactured by Glidden & Salchi, whereas those built by Pininfarina had paint manufactured by PPG or Duco, the latter only being in solid colours." He goes on to say that the customer could get whatever that wanted, though, so don't expect any consistency. Finally, I've read elsewhere that Porsche Guard Red is the way to go, so Speedracer is spot on even if he spells funny.

I am attempting to install a GM diff in a 240Z and require a mustache bar to suit. As a starting point I would like to utilise the bush mounts from a non-OEM bar (see photo) and then make my own cross piece to suit the GM diff. Unfortunately I have been unable to purchase the bush mounts by themselves. Does anyone know of a mustache bar supplier who might be willing to sell just the mounts?

20.456 http://www.jb330gt.com/Colors.htm http://www.barchetta.cc/all.ferraris/2001.colors/ [url=http://www.jb330gt.com/Colors.htm][/url]

Did a search and found only one thread mention back in 2000/2001. If anyone has experience with weld-through primers would they post comments and any product recommendations. Thanks.

Here are some photos of a simple mock-up rear mounting bracket - I figure I'll will probably need something stronger than cardboard for the real thing! Although the standard moustache bar is shown here I will have to construct a new one that run basically straight between the two attachment points of the standard bar. That is, the diff mounting holes will be approximately 50mm forward of the standard position and 50mm closer to the floor of the car. This should leave the centre of the diff output flanges in line with the wheel hubs and about 20mm closer to the floor of the car. Some strengthening webs would be added to the final bracket, particularly at the 90 degree bends. Any feedback at this point would be appreciated.

Never used it myself and I have only undertaken a little research on this but it appears that the domestic stuff has a problem with moisture retention and ultimately breaking down. I think you may need to look at foam used in marine applications. mclark999 Re: Driving lights - see post #52 on this thread.

Mea culpa, mea culpa. I have remeasured the offset and it is 33mm not 60mm, so there is no problem at all. Must still be excited about Casey Stoner's Moto GP world title and not thinking too clearly. Thanks for the earlier comments. This GM diff is looking better and better all the time.

Yep - as simple as that. I would like to think that I, or probably my grandkids, will still be using the car in 25 years time, it's part of the philosophy behind my build. If the locks are that hard to find now can you imagine what it will be like further down the track. 250 GT0s are now 45 years old and more popular that ever and I expect they will still be icons for many many years to come - this should help keep interest in our replicas. Check the '250 GTO builders' thread where there is a link to genuine lock trims.

Do you have a specific reference for this information? Thanks. John (JCI) advised that his mounts are offset 25mm (1"). If I use the formula above, 0.07 x DS length [0.07 x 20.75" (530mm) = 1.5" (37mm)] and add the 1" (25mm) then a diff with a pinion offset of 2.4" (60mm), i.e. the GM diff, should be okay centrally mounted. 20.75" = http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94188

Vinh - I would appreciate it if you could confirm there is an offset and the actual measurement. I will contact JCI as well. Can you give a value? The original donor car setup is a two-piece shaft with a CV located in the middle. The service manual sets the vertical alignment to zero with very little tolerance for both shafts but states nothing about the horizontal setting. I'm guessing that's because there is no horizontal adjustment and vertically it's implying more about ride height rather than tailshaft alignment.

I'm attempting to install a GM IRS diff. It has about a 60mm pinion offset and I am wondering whether a JCI mounts LS1 has the tailshaft running offset from the centreline of the vehicle which might address the diff offset to some extent. I thought I read somewhere that it does!

I am trying to utilise the IRS diff from a GM vehicle with an LS1/T56. It would be great to have someone stumble down this path with me. Early indications are that it is very possible, and cheap as well. There is a readily available large range of ratios for easy swaps to suit your horsepower and driving application. I'm starting with the 3.07:1 option and the comments by '1 tuff z' sound encouraging. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124522

Yes I am trying to fill out the wheel wells but I want to limit the wheel width to 8" to achieve the original appearance of the sixties 250 GTO - they were actually 7 1/2" on the GTOs but Daytons only make 6', 7" & 8" Borrani style wire wheels. Spacers are banned in this country. BlueovalZ - Do the inserts sit on the bottom of the strut? Also, I'm guessing the size of the 'notch' would be fairly small to generate a 50mm shift in the top of the strut. How confident are you that the top mount would need work?

Thanks for the replies. It would be 100mm (50mm each side). The first photo is an over exaggeration, the offset is far less in practice. Would it be possible/practical to notch the strut assembly, low down near the bearing housing, as shown, and re-weld to reset the camber to zero or am I just beginning to chase my tail with this whole idea?

I am presently experimenting with the installation of a GM IRS diff (see Drivetrain). I was looking at options to use the original GM length drive shafts. I am building a 250 GTO replica and could easily cope with an increased track width of up to 50mm (2") on either side to fill up the rear flared guards. I considered the fabricated transverse links but they are more about fine adjustment than increasing the track width. The thought has just crossed my mind that it might be possible to move the transverse link inner pickup points out by 50mm, thus increasing the track by 50mm each side. I could make an offset shim to ensure the rear strut mountings would sit flat, if required, but I was wondering what this arrangement would do to the camber? Anyone with any comments.

Hoping this thread gets some traction (pun intended). I have purchased a GM diff and it's a bit scary as everything seems to be going okay. Firstly, the weight; only measured on bathroom scales but came in at 74lbs. I think the r200s are 72lbs and I know from my chiropractor that the r230 is 117lbs. So the weight looks good. Secondly, the fit; as you can see from the pictures there are no real dramas at this stage. It looks as though it can be mounted with the axle centerline somewhere between 2"-3" closer to the floor pan than the original 240z diff installation. I'm not too sure about the moustache bar at this stage. It may be possible to retain the original and use a triangular bracket to attach the two vertical mounting points on the rear of the diff (considered as one point of the triangle) to the two existing mounting holes in the moustache bar. This would mean mounting the diff 1"-2" further forward from where it is pictured, creating a misalignment with the wheel hubs, though I understand this is standard practice on the Porsche. It looks as though a variation on the R/T front mount should be possible. The PCD of the bolts on the CV is 95mm and I think they are 112mm on the r230. If it is not possible to have the MM adaptors machined to the smaller PCD then I should be able to get away with using a spacer drilled and tapped to the different PCD's on each side. One thing I noticed is that the CVs are secured only with screws - I have observed how most people seem to use bolts and nuts for this connection. The screws should allow for a much neater adaptor and they could be lockwired or tabbed for extra assurance. Unlikely to be working on the project for the next month but will post an update when I resume. If anyone can see that I've missed something please comment. Thanks. Sorry for the mix of imperial and metric measurements.

Excellent - yet another example of a fast and knowledgable response to a member's query. Many thanks.

I have a set of Arizona Z brakes on their way. I am trying to obtain a set of 260z front hubs but I'm not real sure how you can differentiate them from the 240z hubs. I know there is a different offset but can somebody tell me what that is and how it's measured or if you can tell the difference just by looking? Thanks.

If I can use the GM CVs on both ends it would only mean a shortened axle and some adaptor for the outer end. I'm quessing that due to the hardening or raised splines the axles cannot be actually shortened and that new complete ones will have to made. As GM vehicles are so popular in motorsport down here I'm confident someone will be able to hob up a shortened version. The multiple choice of ratios is, as you say, an exciting prospect.

I'm very interested in this thread achieving its original aim. It's very enticing to follow the path made easier by the hard work of others and that's where I was heading - r200, CVs, Arizona Z mustache, etc. The big difficulty we have down here is that LSD r200 diffs taller than 4.11 are non-existent. No 3.54 Q45s, etc. What we do have is thousands of 3.07 IRS diffs that come with the GM LS1 powered vehicles - Commodores, Utes, etc. If you use a donor car it means you can utilise the whole drivetrain from the crankshaft to the outer CVs. I would have thought the diff is used in the States as well and wondered if anyone has considered this approach. I appreciate that it would mean designing a new mustache bar and front mount but has anyone gone down this path? This diff in image #1 is from a pre-LS1 powered vehicle but it looks very similar to that used in the LSI cars. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/STATESMAN-COMMODORE-V8-IRS-LSD-DIFF-ABS-VQ-VP-VR-VS-A_W0QQitemZ250169475493QQihZ015QQcategoryZ102360QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem