jakeshoe

I am leaning towards the 327. Sportsmans, and either the TH350 or 200-4R. It is a 240 style car. It needs carpet, seat covers, and a dash cap. It's been in an indoor storage for 6 years. So it needs all the cosmetic stuff. I'm planning on a R200 diff with a LSD.

A.G., I bought a 260Z to use for a project while I was home in Aug. I've been lurking here learning about the specifics of getting the V8 in and all the little things. I have a 400 SBC or a 327 to use, and I'm going back and forth as to whether to just use a Th350 or the 200-4R out of my Chevelle. The 260Z is supposed to be a budget deal for giggles. I paid $575 for the body, rust free steal of Ebay because of poor picture and description. I bought a 400 SBC to get the deal done quickwhile I was home but still ran out of time. The 400 came with Sportsman II's and the compression is steep for an iron headed pump gas deal. ~11-1. The 327 is currently in the '55 Chevy that will be receiving a 5.3L LSx type motor and 4L80. I also picked up a 4L80 for the Chevelle. So... I'm kicking the projects around mentally here in Iraq. I don't want to tie too much into the 260Z. It was initially meant to be a fun low budget project. Pull the 327 and Th350 from the '55, put them in the 260. Get away from the heavy cars with BBC's and go to a lightcar with a revvy SBC. Then the 400 came along at a deal too good to pass up. So i figured I would use it. Now I may sell it, use the Sportsman II heads on the 327 ad the Th350 from the '55 to keep it on the cheap. That'll leave me with an extra 200-4R with most of the upgrades from behind the 427, but I can always use it later on something else or in the 260 if I get tired of the TH350. Anyway, By the time I get home next year I will have enough cash to build me a pretty decent size shop and get the projects done

The overhaul kit is $23. Most local parts places will rape you on prices for the little stuff that adds up, so beware. I've been there done that. Sometimes you will find a friendly local place though... I occasionally build racing automatics when I'm not in far away places. Good luck. The 700 is not one I would recommend you start with, but the more difficult rebuild processes will be the pump and the input drum. The rear section is not too difficult. Almost exactly like a TH350, which is one of the easier trans to do.

Ditch the B&M improver kit. You can get parts from www.bulkpart.com You will need off the top of my head: Super Master Rebuild kit with Borg Warner frictions. You want the 4L60E band (should be included). That kit should have all the soft parts and a Vette servo. You also want a TransGo Reprogramming kit, Transgo pump rings, a new 10 vane pump kit, a new TCC solenoid, a "Beast" sun shell, an ATSG rebuild manual, and possibly a thrust washer kit, bushing kit. .500 TV boost valve and the .283 reverse boost valve... Be prepared to make s couple of orders once you get started. If it's your first rebuild I would buy an extra "overhaul kit" that has all the gaskets, seals, that way when you cut a seal, you aren't stuck. You will also need a low/reverse clutch spring compressor (look on ebay), the lip seal installers are nice (almost required), the input shaft teflon ring installer and sizer is also good to have to do the job right. Also a set of snap ring pliers.

A 8.6 1/8th mile time comes out to a ~13.4 1/4 mile time... So his numbers aren't off that much, and it does look like he let out too soon. My '69 Chevelle would run a 8.25 1/8 in a 12.94 1/4 at 104-105 mph... If he gets it to hook, and runs it all the way through, it would be an easy high 12 car...

You can install a LT1 T56 to an old style engine using the stock bellhousing, an old style clutch and flywheel setup, and a hydraulic throwout bearing. I've done it behind a 454. The best deal now is to use the Mcleod Scattershield setup though... and probably an LS1 trans.

Email me at jakeshoe@hotmail.com ... What trans do you have with the LS1?

Hey guys/gals, I pulled the 260Z motor out yesterday and have no use for it but hate to take it to the metal yard, wanted to post a "free to good home" ad here but must not be computer literate enough to do so. Any tips?

When I installed a T56 in a Camaro of mine several years ago, I used a short old style Hurst lever, that had 3/8" threads, the white 6 speed ball I orderd from Jeg's had a larger metric thread, so I made an "adapter bushing". Took a bolt that fit the ball, drilled a hole in the center, tapped for 3/8", and cut it approx 1/2" long... Worked great.. I think they make something similar aftermarket now.

I got my JTR book and kit today, so have been scanning it for info. Assembled the short block today for the 400. Waiting on a few more parts to long block it. I may be mistaken, I may have used a 7/8" master before. I used what was recommended by McLeod with their hyd TO, but it left a very short clutch pedal travel. I may try the T56 with a stock Datsun master. The "retrofit" T56 is probably not as cost effective as using a Viper or LS1 unit now that McLeod has a scattershield that works for all the T56's. The McLeod scattershield setup is $335 from Summit, plus the cost of a good used T56, and you are still less than a new retrofit version. If you get a Viper trans, it should have the mechanical speedo. That takes care of most of the retrofit problems. Without a computer hookup, non of the T56's have the "skip shift" I didn't have any issues using the LT1 unit behind a BBC. With the Mcleod setup, you can use a hydraulic or linkage clutch. Think I have myself talked into this one

I searched the "Forums" up at the top. I used a 3/4" diameter master on my last T56 swap and the clutch throw was TOO short, so a smaller diameter master would have increased the throw length and been much better IMO.

Hello All, I'm new to HybridZ. I've been itching to do a Z car V8 conversion for awhile, bought a 260Z the other day as well as picked up a 400 SBC to go into it. Little bit of background about me, ASE certified Master Auto Tech with Advance Performance, as well as Master Engine Machinist. I have a few years of delaership as well as auto manufacturing experience. Currently working in Iraq as a private military contractor so I can afford my toys at home. Anyway, I ordered the JTR book and mounting kit. Was hoping it would all be here today but didn't show. I have a 400 SBC with Sportsman II's, Air Gap, new rotating assembly, etc.. I just need to assemble this week before I head back to Iraq. I'm kicking around doing a T56 in this car. I've done the T56 swap "back when it was hard" I searched the archives and it seems alot of the info is somewhat incorrect and/or outdated. I have previously mounted a LT1 T56 behind a 454 in a 72 Camaro using a lightweight 153 tooth flywheel, Centerforce DF clutch, McLeod Hyd TO, and a Tilton master. Stock Lt1 bellhousing. No need for the pull-off style clutch...or related expensive flywheels/parts. I would likely use a Viper or LS1 trans this time as McLeod has scattershields made for this swap now. Should make things easier. The car I have is a manual car, so I was thinking of using the stock Datsun clutch master (anybody know the diameter?), a McLeod housing, Viper T56 (mechanical speedo), and a McLeod Hyd TO bearing. Seems to me this would be the easiest way to mount in the Z car, since it already has a hyd clutch setup. Has anybody used the stock master for any type of T56 swap, slave cyl or hyd TO? Anybody use a mechanical linkage setup using a McLeod scattershield, or even a mechanical linkag eon an older 4 speed style setup?