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About yo880

  • Birthday 03/14/1980

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    Sydney, Australia

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  1. Hi Guys, Once again, thanks for all the advice! just an update, after messing with the carbs for many many weekends.. i still wasn't able to get the car to run well enough to even move the car under it's own power. tried adjusting floats, resetting screws, balancing etc. but nothing helped it improve. I finally bit the bullet and organised a tow truck to get it to a tuner. After some advise from my local z club (viczcars.com) I reverted the dizzy map to something a little more basic (attached), and amazingly this allowed the car to idle well enough to drive onto the flat bed tow truck. It turns out what was marked as 45F9's had been partially drilled out by someone, and replacing them with 50F9's and some basic tuning was all that was really needed (although my 115's will eventually be replaced with 110's as the carbs are still a little rich). Car seems pretty solid now, i am glad to have it back on the road.. just waiting on my z story exhaust to ship now hopefully the map helps someone as a starting point (standard 1970 L24 (e31 head) with 40DCOE151, extractors, 2.5" exhaust)
  2. Hi Dat73z, I do have 40DCOE 141's .. i had seen mention of the air bleed screws but couldn't find them on the basic diagrams i found on the web at the time.. i have since found them along with a decent explanation on setting them (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/287335-weber-idle-air-bleed-adjustment-opinions.html#post2636635).. after reading that post, and the one you suggested i am starting to understand it a little more, certainly enough to reset everything again and give it a good go. i also have an STE-SK synchrometer If i understand it correctly - i should disconnect my linkage bar, zero out all the throttle adjustment screws, reset all my mixture screws, reset all my air bleed screws, and then adjust the air bleed screws equally until the engine sits at 1000rpm (and then use these individually to balance barrel flow rates), then use the mixture screw to adjust spark colour (via colortune), then finally reset the idle via the air bleed screws again equally? I will also check the TDC at the cam's as suggested. When you say adjust your valves, are you talking about the intake\exhaust valves? really appreciate everyones time, i hate asking seemingly stupid questions but you guys have helped me understand it all much better.
  3. Thanks Samurai7one.. that is hugely helpful and i think that gets me into a better headspace on the carbs..
  4. Thanks Dat73z I will re-check everything.. I have been looking for a good howto on synching the triples, but it has eluded me so far.. will keep looking, thanks for the overview.. that will give me a chance of searching. I think the thing that throws me i think is the "initialisation" (removing ground, turning ignition on and turning the body CW until the light comes on).. Even if i set TDC and have the rotor pointing towards a point, For me, This process seems to move the cap so that the rotor points halfway between the points.. though maybe i am just not quite on TDC (i havn't taken the cover off)
  5. Thanks guys, you are champions! I got it installed and the engine fired up though its chugging.. not surprising since i am trying to setup a set of triple webers at the same time.. also installed the recommended Beru red coil (bypassing the resistor) Can i ask a question though, i expected from other forums that the #1 spark plug location would change at TDC, for me it seems to be pointing downwards (1970 240Z with L24). after the initialisation process (turning the body of the distro and holding the rotor clockwise until the light turns green- the rotor turns counter clockwise when cranked), at TDC (on the timing mark, and sticking a screwdriver in #1 spark hole it seems to be at top), the rotor seems to be half way between spark plugs #1 and #5 (which doesn't match the #1 on the cap, but i assumed that is ok).. i will stick up a photo tomorrow I did get the engine fired up, but it runs rough (probably because of the carbs) and i can only get a timing signal off spark plugs #4 and #6.. any ideas? i am learning as i go! Thanks again Kent
  6. Hi Guys, I am in the middle of installing a set of triple 40DCOE webers onto the L24 in my Series 1 240Z. Rather than trying to get my stock distributor re-curved i have purchased one of the new bluetooth enabled tune+ from 123ignition. I havn't installed it yet, but i presume that it comes blank and will require me to configure a base tune on it. ignition isn't my forte, so i was hoping someone here could help me set a base tune on it for the L24 with webers that i can fiddle with from there? Thanks guys Kent
  7. Thanks for the pics, I ended up ordering the reverse color scheme in their last March madness sale, just received them.. on my new gauges (4.5" & 2-5/8"), when you look up close, the tick marks on the gauges are printed with jagged lines not straight (my full Mark on the fuel gauge is especially bad), are yours the same? Having a blue needle shows a lot of light spill through the warning lights, yours isn't as noticeable in red.. emailed them to see what they can do for me.
  8. Do you mind posting some pic's of your speedhut gauges at night? I am looking at getting the same colour combination, but would like to see a real picture of them first
  9. I thought high pressure fuel pumps had trouble with the initial "lift" of petrol, and running them dry was not a good idea (ie. not good for the lift pump). or are they fine as long as you perform some sort of priming first?
  10. 24U is the N1 block, they were valid for all models R32, R33 and R34.. i believe the R34 Nur's also ran with the N1 block as standard
  11. doesn't the R33 GTST have some sort of fuel pump controller box in the rear somewhere? i was under the impression that it regulated the fuel pump speed too giving a high and low output (giving a boost of fuel when running hard).. i am sure there is something about it in the service manuals.. unfortunately i havn't reached this stage yet, but i had briefly looked at it in passing interest
  12. ok, got it now.. the Armarda has nothing to do with the pathfinder, except in name out of interest (we don't get them here).. are they a bigger 4x4 than the latest toyota Landcruiser / LX560? they look huge
  13. Z-Gad, do you happen to know what the chassis code of the armada/Pathfinder is? i am trying to look it up in the US version of FAST, i can see a VQ35DE Pathfinder (2002+ R50 chassis), but it looks like it has a live rear setup with the H233B Diff (LSD or non LSD)
  14. Hi Guys, Hi Tony, no drama's with the guages.. my 240Z didn't come with an interior, so i am starting from scratch, i was planning to barstardise an S15 dash into it.. there is no chance of the car being original anyway! hopefully that means that i can mould in a supra/aristo cluster etc. or worse case go aftermarket. i just popped the S15 HLSD ratio (3.692) into a gear speed calculator with the details of a V160 (and R154), it came out with (based on 175/40/17 tyres) 1st Gear = 53.33 km/h (r154 is 62.85) 2nd Gear = 86.55 km/h (r154 is 104.48 3rd Gear = 121.58 km/h (r154 is 155.92) 4th Gear = 155.92 km/h (r154 is 204.25) 5th Gear = 204.25 km/h (r154 is 271.25) 6th Gear = 258.54 km/h I don't even pretend to understand how the ratio's relate to real life (or what other factors effect them), but from these figures i can see why a lower ratio diff with an R154 is a good idea. the V160 seems to be geared differently however, enough to seemingly be workable with a 3.692 diff? I can't understand why the MK3 had an R154 and a high ratio diff (3.7) and the Mk4 V160 had a low ratio 3.266.. the ratios seems backwards to me, but i probably just don't understand enough Thanks Russ, i will check out the photo's and send you a pm
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