yo880

Hi Guys, Once again, thanks for all the advice! just an update, after messing with the carbs for many many weekends.. i still wasn't able to get the car to run well enough to even move the car under it's own power. tried adjusting floats, resetting screws, balancing etc. but nothing helped it improve. I finally bit the bullet and organised a tow truck to get it to a tuner. After some advise from my local z club (viczcars.com) I reverted the dizzy map to something a little more basic (attached), and amazingly this allowed the car to idle well enough to drive onto the flat bed tow truck. It turns out what was marked as 45F9's had been partially drilled out by someone, and replacing them with 50F9's and some basic tuning was all that was really needed (although my 115's will eventually be replaced with 110's as the carbs are still a little rich). Car seems pretty solid now, i am glad to have it back on the road.. just waiting on my z story exhaust to ship now hopefully the map helps someone as a starting point (standard 1970 L24 (e31 head) with 40DCOE151, extractors, 2.5" exhaust)

Hi Dat73z, I do have 40DCOE 141's .. i had seen mention of the air bleed screws but couldn't find them on the basic diagrams i found on the web at the time.. i have since found them along with a decent explanation on setting them (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/287335-weber-idle-air-bleed-adjustment-opinions.html#post2636635).. after reading that post, and the one you suggested i am starting to understand it a little more, certainly enough to reset everything again and give it a good go. i also have an STE-SK synchrometer If i understand it correctly - i should disconnect my linkage bar, zero out all the throttle adjustment screws, reset all my mixture screws, reset all my air bleed screws, and then adjust the air bleed screws equally until the engine sits at 1000rpm (and then use these individually to balance barrel flow rates), then use the mixture screw to adjust spark colour (via colortune), then finally reset the idle via the air bleed screws again equally? I will also check the TDC at the cam's as suggested. When you say adjust your valves, are you talking about the intake\exhaust valves? really appreciate everyones time, i hate asking seemingly stupid questions but you guys have helped me understand it all much better.

Thanks Samurai7one.. that is hugely helpful and i think that gets me into a better headspace on the carbs..

Thanks Dat73z I will re-check everything.. I have been looking for a good howto on synching the triples, but it has eluded me so far.. will keep looking, thanks for the overview.. that will give me a chance of searching. I think the thing that throws me i think is the "initialisation" (removing ground, turning ignition on and turning the body CW until the light comes on).. Even if i set TDC and have the rotor pointing towards a point, For me, This process seems to move the cap so that the rotor points halfway between the points.. though maybe i am just not quite on TDC (i havn't taken the cover off)

Thanks guys, you are champions! I got it installed and the engine fired up though its chugging.. not surprising since i am trying to setup a set of triple webers at the same time.. also installed the recommended Beru red coil (bypassing the resistor) Can i ask a question though, i expected from other forums that the #1 spark plug location would change at TDC, for me it seems to be pointing downwards (1970 240Z with L24). after the initialisation process (turning the body of the distro and holding the rotor clockwise until the light turns green- the rotor turns counter clockwise when cranked), at TDC (on the timing mark, and sticking a screwdriver in #1 spark hole it seems to be at top), the rotor seems to be half way between spark plugs #1 and #5 (which doesn't match the #1 on the cap, but i assumed that is ok).. i will stick up a photo tomorrow I did get the engine fired up, but it runs rough (probably because of the carbs) and i can only get a timing signal off spark plugs #4 and #6.. any ideas? i am learning as i go! Thanks again Kent

Hi Guys, I am in the middle of installing a set of triple 40DCOE webers onto the L24 in my Series 1 240Z. Rather than trying to get my stock distributor re-curved i have purchased one of the new bluetooth enabled tune+ from 123ignition. I havn't installed it yet, but i presume that it comes blank and will require me to configure a base tune on it. ignition isn't my forte, so i was hoping someone here could help me set a base tune on it for the L24 with webers that i can fiddle with from there? Thanks guys Kent

Thanks for the pics, I ended up ordering the reverse color scheme in their last March madness sale, just received them.. on my new gauges (4.5" & 2-5/8"), when you look up close, the tick marks on the gauges are printed with jagged lines not straight (my full Mark on the fuel gauge is especially bad), are yours the same? Having a blue needle shows a lot of light spill through the warning lights, yours isn't as noticeable in red.. emailed them to see what they can do for me.

Thanks mate, looking forward to it!

Do you mind posting some pic's of your speedhut gauges at night? I am looking at getting the same colour combination, but would like to see a real picture of them first

I thought high pressure fuel pumps had trouble with the initial "lift" of petrol, and running them dry was not a good idea (ie. not good for the lift pump). or are they fine as long as you perform some sort of priming first?

24U is the N1 block, they were valid for all models R32, R33 and R34.. i believe the R34 Nur's also ran with the N1 block as standard

doesn't the R33 GTST have some sort of fuel pump controller box in the rear somewhere? i was under the impression that it regulated the fuel pump speed too giving a high and low output (giving a boost of fuel when running hard).. i am sure there is something about it in the service manuals.. unfortunately i havn't reached this stage yet, but i had briefly looked at it in passing interest

ok, got it now.. the Armarda has nothing to do with the pathfinder, except in name out of interest (we don't get them here).. are they a bigger 4x4 than the latest toyota Landcruiser / LX560? they look huge

Z-Gad, do you happen to know what the chassis code of the armada/Pathfinder is? i am trying to look it up in the US version of FAST, i can see a VQ35DE Pathfinder (2002+ R50 chassis), but it looks like it has a live rear setup with the H233B Diff (LSD or non LSD)

Hi Guys, Hi Tony, no drama's with the guages.. my 240Z didn't come with an interior, so i am starting from scratch, i was planning to barstardise an S15 dash into it.. there is no chance of the car being original anyway! hopefully that means that i can mould in a supra/aristo cluster etc. or worse case go aftermarket. i just popped the S15 HLSD ratio (3.692) into a gear speed calculator with the details of a V160 (and R154), it came out with (based on 175/40/17 tyres) 1st Gear = 53.33 km/h (r154 is 62.85) 2nd Gear = 86.55 km/h (r154 is 104.48 3rd Gear = 121.58 km/h (r154 is 155.92) 4th Gear = 155.92 km/h (r154 is 204.25) 5th Gear = 204.25 km/h (r154 is 271.25) 6th Gear = 258.54 km/h I don't even pretend to understand how the ratio's relate to real life (or what other factors effect them), but from these figures i can see why a lower ratio diff with an R154 is a good idea. the V160 seems to be geared differently however, enough to seemingly be workable with a 3.692 diff? I can't understand why the MK3 had an R154 and a high ratio diff (3.7) and the Mk4 V160 had a low ratio 3.266.. the ratios seems backwards to me, but i probably just don't understand enough Thanks Russ, i will check out the photo's and send you a pm

Thanks ShaggyZ.. for the record i have read that post (hard to miss a sticky with a name like that!), but i didn't recall him saying that he did need to make up a new driveshaft when he changed. That post was actually my main motivation to use the 2JZ over the 1UZ or RB26.. The 2nd post you linked to, i don't get any pictures showing in the thread (which is what i was referring to in my original post about there being no working pictures). can you see them still (maybe it is just me?) it is a shame as i would love to see them.

Hi guys, i am looking at sticking in a 2JZ-GTE from an Aristo (probably pre 96) into my 72 240Z. i was looking at putting in an RB26.. but i thought i would look at doing something a little different (as i am putting an RB26 into my C110 240K). got a few questions for you all (hopefully basic), i am afraid i am not too up on the toyota bits yet, but i am learning.. and searching My main questions are in relation to the gearbox.. 1) will a V160/V161 box fit into the 240z tunnel? (sorry did searches but all pictures from other builds are offline) does the tunnel need to be cut up / modified.. the box looks pretty big. 2) If i start off with the Auto box (A340 is it?), when i eventually go manual (R154 or V160), will i need a new custom driveshaft? or are the boxes the same length? 3) What do people do with Diff's? i was going to use an S15 HLSD Diff (which is a 3.916 in Auto, 3.692 in Manual).. with a V160 or R154 gearbox will this diff ratio be any good (looks like the toyota ones are quite low)? i definately want to stick to an R200 or R230 but what is the preferred ratio? 4) are there any major clearence issues (i am in Australia, so RHD) Thanks Guys Kent

i had my 240K done over at Wilkins, and i found them to be pretty (well.. very) $$$$ for what they did.. it will cost me a lot less to get the TTT kit and bolt it all on (especially with the shafts etc. and the full shortnose LSD swap).. hopefully there will be no issues with engineering as it looks very well made (i can't imagine it being any different to the quality of wilkins kit) i appreciate you sharing the option though!

heres a pic of my pad (looks the same as Geez to me): http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2236 http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2239 When comparing with VT calipers on the net, it looks like the caliper is similar, but the metal slider thingy on the front is curved on the VT+.. so i think your right.. they may be VS.. hopefully you can confirm wiht the pad pics

Thanks for the identification.. i guess i should find out exactly what the components are then, as i was told they were VT's - not that it matters much

that is awesome, thanks for all that info, i had just finished reading your posts about the trailer hubs i had been looking at coilovers as well as the 5 stud conversion and larger brakes, so the datsport kit may work out to be better cost wise.. i have been stung before in thousands of dollars of "custom" labour, so i would prefer to stick to kits etc. this time around. it looks like datsport uses the noltec coilover sleeves etc. i have also been looking into the T3 Z32 rear end which hopefully will make the Z32 rears easy (maybe with an S15 R200 instead of the R230)

did you get anywhere with this?

Hi Guys, I am in Australia and i have a 71 240Z (series 2) which i am putting in an RB26, and trying to work out the best way to do this rear end. It seems that the 300ZX Z32TT diff is not a simple bolt in, so what is the next best option? should i be looking at an Sylvia S15 R200 rear end (with Quaiffe style LSD), or short nose R200 from an R33/R34 Skyline (GTR or GTST?). we don't have the Q45 or armada here will the rear brakes and hand brake assemblies and hubs work out of all these cars? or will there be modifications required? or am i better sticking with the Z32TT hubs, brakes etc. with whatever diff is available (ie. S15/R33/R34)? are there any issues as my car has the earlier forward front diff mount? i presume the axles would be the heaviest part of the set, any idea on what they weight?

i am trying to find out what mine are too.. i think mine are Holden Commodore VT's.. do the calipers look like this (with a straight bar on the front)? i am not 100% sure they are though.. every VT pic i can find has a slightly curved bar on the front. http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=882 http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=902 http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=964 http://www.project240k.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=968 I can't find any thing relating to the numbers on anything on the web either

doco includes pin numbers, colour and function