yo880

yep, they are nissan part numbers out of FAST. some may be superceded.. but nissan will be able to sort that out (i just bought and fitted all of these myself). and yes, that is every bolt (and Nut) to bolt the Transmission (either RB25 or RB26) to the RB26DETT.. if you are not using the RB26DETT sump, i am not sure if you can use the RB25DET bottom gearbox mounting plates, but either way you need all these bolts. Kent

The N/A RB25's have a cover similar to the RB20 too.. RB25DET is different (has a raised section at the back).. the RB25DE still fitted on the RB25DET.. but not sure what clearence is like underneath (i realised they were different after i put them on and replaced them back to rb25det)

I used all the standard bolts from the RB26: 4X 01121-05121 BOLT G/BOX 1X 08121-0501E HEX BOLT G/BOX 1X 08915-3401A SPRING WASHER G/BOX 1X 08911-2101A HEX NUT G/BOX 3X 08121-0401E HEX BOLT G/BOX 2X 08121-0351F HEX BOLT G/BOX

Here is the completed document R32R33RB26Pinout.pdf

Oh I forgot to add, if anyone is ever in the position to verify the R33 RB26DETT wiring.. please let me know!

Thanks The "missing" pin on the connector just isn't there on the R33 connector as it is on the R32 connector. Although the R32 wiring harness may be compatible on the R33 engines, they are obviously differences (although probably minor) i went out and bought the rest of the engine bay loom (Relay box etc.) and finished tracing the left over wire. It goes to a 4 pin connector which it shares with a wire that goes to the A/C relay. So i guess it is A/C related (though not exactly sure what would connect to this connector, it is in the RHS corner of the engine bay, nowhere near the A/C compressor.. only thing i can think of is the AC condensor) Interestingly the R33 must have a completely different radiator fan setup to the R32, one in which it isn't controlled by the ECU (as Pin #6 does not exist) Here is what i hope is the final document (until i can get the engine running )

OK, Traced all the wires and compared them to an R32 RB26 loom (and my pdf) and i have got most of the wires. The only 2 that i have had trouble with is a Yellow/Blue which goes to the interior dash loom (so i guessed it is the tacho Pin#7), and the other is a Green/Red. the Green/Red has me puzzled, as i still have 2 choices left in comparison to the R32 loom; Cooling fan relay (which is on the Black large connector that eventually goes to the relay box), or the Air Conditioner relay (Which goes to the grey large connector to the relay box). obviously one of these functions have been dropped in the R33, but no idea which.

i should probably also add that the information in my document has been taken either through visually ID'ing the Loom (in the case of the colours), or through the respective service manual. There is also a nice little power circuit picture from the PowerFC FAQ on the internet

yeah, i know that I would much rather someone double check their R33 loom and let me know the pin order.. saves me tracing all of them, working out what the sensor is, plugging it in then blowing the ECU because i had something not quite right... The colours should be the same across all R33 RB26's (GTS-T's and R32's are different (colourwise in the r32's case) PS. Just updated the document posted above with a little more info from the website above.. anything in Red is unconfirmed (since the website pinouts refer to GTS-T's too.. which are different to the gtr loom)

Thanks, i will update some of the functions (i am missing the grounds and 12v's i think).. but i am looking mostly for wiring colours.. the whole loom is standard, so i don't want to have to break it up to work out what the 20 pins are.. hence i am looking for the colours of the wires . Kent

heres the pdf so far if anyone knows what the functions of the pins not listed are.. let me know them too (they are not in the R33 manual) i will update this when i get more info

Hi guys, I am attempting to rebuild the ECU connector on my RB26DETT. As you can see from the photo's, it has been quite severly damaged, luckily the plastic took most of the damage, and most of the wires are intact. I got a connector off an RB25 loom, and have connected 3/4 of it all. The section i have left, i have no idea of what colours go where.. Can anybody have a look at theirs and send me a list of the wire colours vs Pin numbers? my engine is an R33 RB26dett.. the R32 wiring colours are different.. so please only list ones from an R33 RB26. Needed Pinouts 1-20 (which is on the inside of the larger pins), i have attached a pin numbering diagram too The colours i have to find are (short cables): * Blue / Brown * Blue / Red * Yellow / Blue * Green / Red * Black / Yellow * Grey / Black * Brown / Red (Longer cables) * Light Blue * Purple / White * Black / Pink * Orange * Blue / Yellow * Blue / Black * Black / Yellow I will post up a document afterwards with the color / pin / function off both the R33 and R32 RB26dett ecu after i have this info (for verification and for future help of others) To get the correct numbering, look at the back of the Connector (ie. wire side).. the top can be identified by the plastic being higher on the top (ie. my 4th picture is upside down ) Thanks Guys, i appreciate any help

the adaptor plate that i have screws into the oil filter location, similar to the grex one. Will the RB20 or RB25 oil filter adaptor bolt onto the RB26 to remove the water cooling ?

out of interest, if you remove the standard water/oil cooler from the RB26, what do you need to replace it with? i presume you have to get an oil filter adaptor plate from another RB engine?

I am on the flipside, i think the Greddy is worth every dollar. There is no need to modify it to get it to fit, and it comes with all the fittings and hoses. Plenty of guys here in Australia but the cheap china knockoffs, only to find they require a tonne of work to flow properly, or even to fit.. then they need to find/buy all the fittings.. besides, the plenums are cheaper in the US than they are from japan, so your lucky you don't have to pay much for postage in the scheme of things $900 isn't that much if it saves you piping, and a lot of work

yeah, i think i am going to have to do the same until i can get an answer, or get the car mobile enough to take into a specialist

Hi Guys, just wondering, what are you guys doing for power steering pumps on RB26DETT's? i believe the standard R33 (which is the engine i have) steering pumps have 2 outlets on them for the 4 wheel steering? i was going to try using a low pressure pump out off an RB30E but the bracket does not clear the water pump. I am thinking of switching my power steering with a high pressure one now.. do i have to find an N1 power steering pump (don't think they had 4WS?) any help would be appreciated (i am not sticking the engnie into a Z, but a 240K... though not exactly the same, they are of similar vintage)

awesome thread! cn i ask a really dumb question? (well i will anyway!).. how do you work out the block designators (ie. AF99, MA## etc..).. i have been looking for an R33 body wiring diagram, do you have one? having things layed out as you have makes things seem so much easier (and almost seem achievable ) Kent

nobody knows? surely somebody here must be using one on an rb26dett?

Hi Guys, i am looking at installing an accusump system on my RB26DETT that i am installing in a datsun 240K (not quite a Z, but close ). I was looking at getting a 3 qt system with an electronic valve. i have done a search in the engine manuals i have, and also online, but i am unable to find out what pressure valve i should get. my options are: 20-25psi 35-40psi 55-60psi standard valve kit (pre-lube only) i have seen a pew mentions of some people using them here, so hopefully somebody can give me the magic answer i have a remote oil cooler and a remote oil filter adaptor, so i am hoping installation will not be too difficult. Any pics or details would be appreciated though Thanks guys Kent

Hi aussie ZX, car looks great! congrats! do you know, or can you ask your friend, how easy it was to hook the power steering up in your car (i presume you have PS and used the RB25DET pump?). i am thinking of using a 280zx power steering rack in my C110 240k, but i am not 100% sure yet if it will work with the RB25DET power steering pump (which i presume is a dual stage setup) ie. are the pressures etc. compatible? any ideas?

Z U L8tr, when you used the MSD adaptor for the - signal for the autometer tachometer, which cylinder setting did you use? 4/6/8? and can you give me more detail on which wire it should clip over (i have a series 2 RB25DET, so i will need to try and locate it as it doesn't have an ignitor, they are o the individual coils)

nt sure about not having the 2 relays, but it sounds like a series 2 (01/95-12/98) engine, integrated ignitor modules etc. there is something different about the CAS too (can't remember exactly what) i found that out the hard way when i bought the Series 1 set of splitfire ignitors..

thanks guys, i appreciate the feedback! Yep, the C110 does require a front sump (like the RB25DET), but my engine is mounted further backwards.. it does fit, but with only millimetres clearence with the crossmember

Hi Guys, i am installing an RB25 into a 74 skyline, and while it isn't quite a Z, i couldn't think of a better forum to ask this To get clearence around my engine crossmember, i had my RB25 oil sump modified to take about 2 inches off the rear of the sump (and added a bit of volume to the front). After getting the sump back and while getting ready to fit it, i realised that the oil pickup now won't fit into the sump it hits the sump just below the mounting point, and also at the oil pickup mesh "hat" i was speaking to a friend who thought we could modify the pickup a little by cutting the middle section of the pickup off (between the mounting point and around 2"s from the pickup), and braise a copper pipe with a similar diameter, bent to fit properly Is this a good idea? is there anything i need to think about before doing this? i assume the oil pickup end needs to be horizontal, is there an issue with flow if i bring it into a 90 degree bend straight from the mounting location (there isn't much clearence)?