OustedFairlady

Well, if the header is FOR an L-series, it should fit fine, but if it's not, then there's where you'd find your problem. The muffler will be pretty much universal, so that's not an issue. If I might make a suggestion, I'd say just get an MSA header or something like that and go from there. The MSA will give you fairly good performance and will certainly fit, just ask one of the many people with them on the forums. They also make exhaust systems to work with them that can be modified and the Legalis-R muffler added on.

Well, today, I dropped the new engine in. Over the past few days, I've been cleaning and painting the engine bay, and got the little bits inside cleaned up and reattached. I also snagged a new hood for 40 bucks that's in relatively good shape, but in need of one louver (280Z hood). I also snagged a few interesting things for the car. See them below. And suddenly, pictures! Before cleaning, and... After! Here's the engine going in. And here it is in the car. There's the new hood. Bit of a departure from the dinged up one I had before. I got this battery box from a friend of mine. It was originally a 24volt NiCad battery on an F-86 Sabre fighter (it's a jet.) I thought it was pretty sweet, and it looks like a braille or other small battery will fit in it alright. Any suggestions on batteries? This is a floormat from a JDM Fairlady Z32 that my friend also had lying around. He sold his Z32 and offered this and a pile of stuff in trade for an Aeromotive A1000 I had. I thought they'd look pretty nice in the S30, and so they do! Well, that's it for today. I'm going to try to get the hood primed tomorrow maybe. Maybe get my brakes back together. *EDIT* Oh, and here's the paint I'd like to go with...

'73 precludes you from most emissions requirements, though the vacuum advance distributors and PCV systems are a type of emissions equipment. If you're using an L-series engine, L-series specific headers will fit the same both ways. I have a RHD '71 240Z and the header doesn't interfere with the steering gear, nor does it interfere with the LHD rack. The piping can be custom built to work with your car and choice of mufflers, and there have been some pretty radical engine swaps done, with equally radical exhaust systems. My suggestion would be to select your preferred muffler, select your preferred header, and then have a muffler shop fill in the gaps with custom piping. One question, though. You say a Fujitsubo Legalis-R header/muffler. I'm confused by this. Exhaust systems are generally composed of Header-Piping-Muffler/Tailpipe or Muffler-Tailpipe. If I remember correctly, Legalis-R systems are just this, so is this some sort of Header/Muffler combination? I find that extremely unlikely, as almost every Legalis-R system I've ever seen was the standard "Header-Piping-Muffler" deal. Clarification would be appreciated.

Got a new hood today. It's from a '76 280Z, and the paint's nasty, and there's rust, but there's no swiss cheese smashed up nose on it. It's a winner in my book, at least for now. Also snagged a fuel tank, R200 diff and related parts, hatch, heater box, dash finisher, and other assorted parts. I have pictures, too, but unfortunately, my iPhone's disagreeing with me and won't let me upload them. /sad face.

Bought a new turbo, admired the nice bubbled paint and rusty spots on my primo $40 hood.

Yeah, I have a couple friends who're trying their best to get me to do it. I'm not exactly reticent to do it, but I just bought a 2.6 block from a guy here on the forums, and I'd like to enjoy it stock for a while. I'm almost certainly going to do the swap, just in the future. Anyway, so updates! I got the new engine, as I said above. It's a 2.6, P30 block, E88 head, electronic distributor. I'm thinking of putting the points style on it just for amusement's sake, just for a while. I cleaned the engine bay today and started spraying it black. I started with flat black, but apparently I accidentally picked up a can of satin black and I'm honestly liking it a LOT more than the flat. I cleaned all the little pieces and parts, like the voltage regulator, inspection light, etc. and reinstalled them. The car is looking a LOT better now. I've located a local, and fairly clean '77 280Z shell (no motor, trans) for 500, almost rust free, MINT interior. I'm going to pick it up on Monday evening and bring it down to rob a few parts. I'm putting the body aside to use later for maybe a turbo L28 project. The new engine is going in Monday morning, and hopefully I can hear it crank up by the afternoon. I've also settled on a paint/body scheme, and, with the help of Forza Motorsport 3 (I lol'd), I've given it a little substance. I'm set on the Fairlady Z432 orange (don't know the name or code...can anyone help?) and black. No fender flares, and 16" wheels. Pictures of that as well tomorrow. Sorry, my laptop's battery is rebelling, and it's about to die, so I'll post pictures tomorrow. Cheers, all.

Sorry, didn't think to reply. It is a 260Z dash. There aren't any tool box doors, there ARE vertical defroster lines, the seats are non-adjustable, the side "240Z" vents are the later-style vented "Z" emblems, there aren't any hatch vents, and the trans tunnel is pretty big. I think it was a transition car, though I could be wrong, and if so, please correct me.

Yeah, you're right. It was originally a USDM 240Z (guess it still is, lol), from 6/'71. The Fairlady was a '74 260Z, series two, all that, 2+2 car. It was from texas, and sat in Mississippi humidity and all that for years and by the time the guy actually grabbed it, it was almost completely destroyed with rust. Almost nothing was useful, so every usable part was removed and the car was crushed. To my dismay, he left a good R200 and associated parts as well as the RHD heater box and parts, and the firewall in the car. If it had been me, I would've cut the RHD firewall out of the car (cut the spot welds, etc) and installed it wholesale into my 240Z, but unfortunately, I wasn't the one doing the cutting. As it is, I'm making lemonade out of lemons and working with what I have. I had to cut the USDM firewall with a grinder and weld in a new plate that I fabbed up for the pedal box and reinforce the firewall on that side, or well, I'm in the process of doing that, and I adapted the factory harness to work with the RHD stuff (read: I flipped the original harness around and stuck in the dash backwards, lol.) UPDATE! Today, I picked up a 260Z long block w/ electronic distributor from Pzary3233 (thanks!). I'm going to do a little cleaning and finish welding up some patches in my car on Monday, paint the engine bay, and get everything set up for the new engine. Probably yanking my crossmember, sandblasting it, and painting it. Well, that's for monday. I'll try to get pics up tomorrow!

Picked up a 2.6L longblock today for my car. E88 head, P30 block. Running engine ftw.

Yoinked my engine out of the car, tore it down, scooped the oil out, since it was the consistency of warm peanut butter, fixed both window regulators, door handles, lamented my lack of rear glass weatherstrip and smashed up hood. Anyone want to donate? lol. I'm glad there's a thread like this here. There's one on the supraforums that I enjoy, and I thought about starting one if there wasn't one.

I'd hate to bust in this, but can you get a RHD firewall? lol. my car needs one.

lol, I hacked mine. It's jailbroken and unlocked so I use it on my carrier. No data plan or anything. pretty sad as a phone, but I like it. By the way, if some soul happens across my thread with a RHD car that's especially rusty or wrecked, I NEED A FIREWALL, BADLY!!! Don't know if I can emphasize that any more. My firewall is pretty butchered (/slaps self), and I need a RHD one, because I HATE that I had to cut holes to get the RHD to work. In retrospect, I should've waited to put it in, but, well...patience is not one of my strong points.

hey, another RHD car! nice! you run across them very often? I'm in need of a RHD firewall, lol. Nice work on your build, I wish I could take my car down all the way like that!

In the spirit of future updates, here's the first! Today I pulled the engine. It's pretty horrid. It had a lot of carbon buildup in the exhaust runners, and the oil was the consistency of warm peanut butter. I dropped the pan and oil came out in chunks. The clutch isn't that bad, but I'm suspecting that it's pretty old and the linings are probably ready to die. The flywheel and pressure plate are pretty badly heat-checked too, so I may replace that, budget allowing. I'll have to snap a few pics in the morning. I'll try to get a better camera...my iphone seems sadly inadequate. Start: Getting there: Forgot to take a picture of the engine out, but I will tomorrow morning!

Well, I'm breaking down and making a build thread. It's going to go slow, since I've got to source parts here and there and, more importantly, scrounge money here and there. Here she is: She's a '71 (06-71, point of fact), 240Z, all complete, with an E31/P30 engine. Series one car, I believe, though a few things are making me wonder at it. It had a series one dash, but no "240Z" emblems on the quarters and no rear hatch vents, though it does have vertical defroster lines. I'm suspecting that June was the crossover month and they happened to have a couple extra dashes and stuffed one into this car. If anyone would be so kind as to clear this up, I'd be much obliged. Anyway, It has a few issues, but they're fairly minor (excluding a rather thoroughly seized engine), relatively speaking. The battery tray, as might be expected, was sadly missing, due to a leaky battery. The car, as you might have noticed, has a set of "Fenton Gyro" 14x6 wheels, all of which were in fairly presentable condition, excepting minor corrosion. The frame rail needed some attention under the tray, too, but the floors were surprisingly solid and the spare tire well was, apart from some surface rust, in mint condition, with the original tire cover (cardboard flap thing?). It's missing the fuel tank...I think the PO robbed it for another Z that he had, and the hood, front bumper, and valance are fairly sad. The bumper can be straightened, and I intend to do just that. I picked it up in Jackson, MS around the beginning of August. The poor thing had been sitting in a guy's front yard with the windows rolled down for God knows how long. He's a car enthusiast, but is unfortunately rather absent minded when it comes to his projects. Now the RHD stuff...I have a good friend here in Mississippi who is also an avid Z car guy. He managed to acquire a Fairlady Z 2+2 in Texas and brought it back to Mississippi several years ago. I'm not sure of its condition when he bought it but it was, unfortunately, in very sad condition when it shuffled off its mortal coil. Another individual here managed to talk him out of it and immediately parted the car out. He sold the RHD swap in a big, albeit incomplete, pile of parts, including the dash, steering rack, column, complete wiring harness, etc, to a guy in Jackson. Three years later, I managed to track the guy down. He was moving to another state and was liquidating all of his parts, cars, etc. I offered him a miser's bargain and managed to snag the car, complete RHD swap, extra SU carbs, extra intake manifolds, and a few miscellaneous JDM parts for $600 dollars. I took the car to my school (I'm 22, in college) where I've been working on it here and there as I could. Here is the car when I started my RHD swap. The ill-fated battery tray, after the grinder got it. And...yesterday. I'm pretty horrible about taking pictures, but I'm trying to keep a record of this one. My future plans aren't terribly complicated, I don't think. It's what I'm considering making my DD (LHD streets be damned!), so I'd like to put something somewhat usable in there. I'm currently torn between two engines; a carb'd 2.8/E31 setup, high compression, with triple sidedrafts, or a Toyota 7MGTE (which I happen to have lying about in my shop after a 2JZ transplant into my supra...). Anyway, I'm hoping to paint it myself (I've done all the fabrication, welding, repair, all that jazz, myself), since I'm something of a busybody on cars. I'm thinking of a dark metallic green (an homage to my first Z, a disgusting, torn up, ragged 280Z with a busted quarter panel that ran like a bat out of hell) or maybe orange, like the Z432s. I've got a set of poly bushings on order, and I'm trying to get my hands on a set of lowering springs, as well as a fuel tank. I'd also like to lower the car, install a set of ZG flares, a new front valance-- see the list. Anyway, so here's my list of parts I need. I'm making this more for my own use than anything else, but I guess it'd make a good way to track progress. Body - - Front Valance, with brake ducts - ZG Flares - Paint - New or fixed 240Z bumpers - Rear hatch weatherstrip - New, well...used better hood - New hatch (see above) Engine/Driveline - - Not a fried/seized/otherwise non-functional engine. - 5MT ZXT trans - Eventual swap or better engine - R200 LSD Suspension - - Aftermarket LCAs, tension arms, camber plates, etc - Lowering springs - Wheels, preferably 16x10 rear and 16x8 front. Aggressive offset. - 5-lug conversion Anyway, there's a lot of little things to fix, and I'll try to keep this updated. Sorry for the enormou-post.

I'm not sure how much you know about the JZs and their respective transmissions, but which 5speed are you intending to use? I'm a die hard Supra guy, giant pigs that they are, and if I might be so bold, I'll inject a little info here: There are two that will work on the JZ series, the W58 and the R154. I'm assuming you're wanting to make some horsepower, so let me go ahead and say SPRING FOR THE R154. You'll need to source a MK3 (1986.5-1992) Supra 5 speed and a 1JZ R154 bellhousing. Driftmotion.com (click here for bellhousing) sells these for $350, give or take a little. The W58 will work, but they tend to expire fairly quickly with any kind of horsepower. I say the MK3 trans because the extension housing on the Toyota Soarer R154 (the only JDM R154) is longer than the USDM version by a couple inches, and I'm guessing that you're going to have some trouble getting it to clear the shifter hole. I'm told that even the MK3 shifter has issues, but it's easily overcome by a little fabbing. If you happen to need any kind of info, I'd be happy to help, and if I don't know the answer, I know a few guys that are fairly (when I say fairly, I mean extremely) knowledgeable about 2JZs and their myriad parts. Cheers, and very good work on the car! It's coming along well!

I know this is super late, and I'm not contributing anything to the thread, but this thread is full of win. Absolutely sloshing full of win. It's everywhere.

Lol, thanks!

She's pretty sad right now, half disassembled, not running, with ugly paint. Oh well. 600 dollars well spent, I think. Peep the steering wheel? Yes, I'm proud, even though the car's going to be a tremendous pain to drive and even more of a pain to get parts for. It's cool to me, so I'm rocking it. EDIT* Oh yeah, '71 240Z

Sorry guys I thought I posted already, but I found my linkge underneath my seat... however, I am in need of ideas as to moving my usdm linkage from pedal to carb linkage to the rhd location. It is, unfortunately, one of the few pieces I dint save so I find myself lacking in that regard Is it possible to switch to a car style linkage?

I need a linkage to go between the two carbs. The part on the balance tube is there, and the linkage part on the carb itself is also there. Just need the part that goes between the two. Also, I'm in need of a linkage to go between the pedal and the part on the firewall. (there is a part spot welded to the firewall. I need the part that goes between that and the top part of the pedal.) Any help would be great. Thanks.

Sweet thanks for the help guys. I'll read up on the link, and do a little reading. I'm pretty sure I'll go the turbo manifold route so I suppose it's kinda academic now. I think that wastegate setup was for a Plymouth reliant or something like that. Anyway, thanks for the help!

I came across this odd wastegate location/design, and I'm considering doing it for my Supra, as I've just upgraded its turbocharger. Granted, it's not a wild huge turbocharger, but it's better than destroyed, which my CT26 was. I'm fairly comfortable in my abilities as a technician, but I am by no means an expert in the care and feeding of turbochargers; with that said, this design looks as though it should work, but seems rather cumbersome...granted, it's not for a supra, of course, but I'm curious to know if some more wizened soul might be able to impart some of said wisdom upon me as to whether or not this is a good design for me. I intend to fabricate it myself, if I end up going this route, so money isn't exactly the issue. However, if the level of "PITA" is entirely too much, I'll just settle for an eBay turbo manifold for now. So, thanks in advance. Thoughts? *EDIT* Forgot to add...I'm using a T3/T4 hybrid, .50A/R compressor, .63A/R turbine, from what I understand. I won't pretend to understand what all that means yet, so feel free to either explain or direct me to an explanation... Thanks again.

PM'd. Thanks!

I know it's an old post, but in case the guy is still reading up... OP, I'm assuming you bought a JDM 7M swap, and as such, I'm going to suggest you buy a multilayer steel headgasket and ARP headstuds for your 7M. I'm not sure how much you know, but the factory torque spec (58 ft-lbs) for the 7MGTE cylinder head is woefully inadequate, and you will almost certainly lose the head gasket very soon under additional boost. You can retorque the cylinder head to 72 ft-lbs for a stopgap measure, but the only real way to correctly solve the issue is to buy the parts and replace the gasket with an aftermarket one. When you have it done, if you do, remember to have the head and block machined (INCLUDING THE FRONT TIMING BELT HOUSING, or the aluminum piece that bolts to the block and contains the water pump housing, etc.) for the head gasket so it seals properly. The ARP studs should be torqued to 72 ft-lbs at minimum. The parts you're looking for are either Cometic, HKS, or Greddy made MLS headgaskets, and ARP headstuds (I'll try to get part numbers). I'm running an HKS 1.2mm head gasket (86mm bore) with ARP headstuds in my Supra. The gasket runs around 100 bucks on eBay for a 1.2mm, and progressively higher with thicknesses. *EDIT* It seems that the OP only had four posts, most of which are in this thread, and all of which were several months ago. So I suppose this can just be common knowledge.