OustedFairlady

Harsh. I have something similar on mine. It's rather old fiberglass, and the valance is damaged, so the spoiler is bent a little bit. Any idea where I could find one?

Taz240Z.V-8, I'm not generally a big fan of V8 Zs, but that's one fine automobile you have yourself there. Well done.

I'm in the process. More in the planning stage, at the moment, to be honest, but I'm getting there. I'm using a triangulated four link with 2x3 steel stock to build the frame, and a shortened ford 9" axle.

Subscribed. Awesome thread.

I did a few times, but the only ones I've found are some old posts on Zilvia, and a few other places. I haven't found a recent ad in a while for them. But maybe you're right! I sure would like a set.

SSR Longchamp XR4. Immense amounts of win. These are, hands down, my favorite rims ever made. Period. It's too bad they go for 2500 a set. Very rare, 70s vintage wheels. One of my life goals is to own a set.

No input? Anyone?

I'm four weeks behind! The head bolt patterns for JZs are identical. 1JZ, 2JZGE, and 2JZGTEs all use the same pattern. You wouldn't need to make any modifications to the gasket. It's a factory multilayer steel gasket, and the head and deck surfaces are finished properly for proper sealing. I would recommend taking both to a machine shop to have them cleaned, however. The GTE gasket will lower the compression to around 8.5:1, which is suitable for boost. 350-400hp in a sub 3000lbs Z car would be fast. Very fast. And 2JZs can easily support those sort of numbers, reliably, with no issues unless you make an operator error, say like throwing into first at 70 miles an hour. Extra information: JDM 2JZGTEs from the Toyota Aristos come with front sump oil pans. The proper oil pan is a mid-sump, which can be had from any USDM Supra. You can order these from Driftmotion.com. JDM 2JZGTEs use a ceramic bladed compressor wheel, and these are EXTREMELY prone to delamination above stock boost. 12 PSI, if I recall, is the maximum. USDM 2JZGTEs use steel compressor wheels, and when boost is increased on them, stock 2JZGTEs will make 400 horsepower reliably. USDM 2JZGTEs use 550cc side feed injectors. 2JZGEs use 370cc (IIRC) side feed injectors. 7MGTE 440cc top feed injectors are a good stopgap for NA-T setups until a proper aftermarket set are obtained. JDM engines use a MAP based air metering system, whereas USDM engines use a MAF based system. The ports on GTE heads flow far better than any other Toyota I-6, and the GE and GTE heads are different castings. The port flow characteristics, as well as manifold (exhaust and intake) mounting pads, are different. In other words, intake and exhaust manifolds WILL NOT interchange. 1JZ heads WILL bolt onto 2JZ blocks, with some different parts, such as water pump, transfer tube, etc. Bear in mind that 1JZ cylinder heads flow marginally better than 2JZ heads, but use completely different electronics. You would need to buy a complete 1JZ, with harness and ECM, and a 2JZ block. Flywheels are identical. I own a MKIII Supra turbo, and the most cost effective way to have reliable horsepower in them is to use a 2JZGE with a turbocharger, manifold, and 7MGTE electronics. It's a tested, proven method to make reliable horsepower. Transmission selections include the USDM Aisin R154 5speed manual (requires 1JZ bellhousing), the JDM Toyota Soarer R154 (suitable for our cars, as the shifter housing is the correct length, and comes with a 1JZ bellhousing), USDM and JDM Aisin W58 (not suitable, due to weak gears; used in N/A applications), and the A341 4 speed automatic trans. 240 and 260Z R180 differentials are not suitable for this swap, as they can't hold the power that you're aiming for. The R200 differential is a much better option. There are several write ups with information on swapping. Personally, I'm going with a 31spline Ford 9" live axle, with a triangulated suspension setup, and a 2JZGE-T/R154 combo to power it. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM.

In other words, 11-17 degrees of travel is adequate for a four link, and the high-misalignment type joints aren't required? As for the tubes, where might I find such a thing? I'm not going to rally the car, although drag launches with two step would be likely on occasion. I should be making four hundred or so, but I'd like to build the suspension to hold a good bit more if possible.

I'm working on something of a project, specifically, back halving and installing a cut down 31-spline Ford 9" axle. I know there will be people disagreeing with me, but this is the route I've decided to take with my Z. I'm installing a Toyota 7MGTE, and in the interest of traction, I've decided to install an entire new rear suspension setup. I know the factory stuff is perfectly capable, but again, this is the route I've decided to take. Back to topic: I realize there are a lot of measurements and a lot of information one needs before undertaking this sort of project, but one must start somewhere. Just to serve as a reminder, as much to self as would-be advisors, I am NOT a professional fabricator, although that is a field I am intensely interested in. My mechanical aptitude is fairly high, as I'm an ASE certified mechanic with some experience in the field. However, I am by no means a genius, nor do I claim to be. I'm here for answers, not to push my idea of the truth on everyone. If I'm wrong, please present evidence to that fact, as I am interested in learning, not arguing, and evidence is the ultimate impartial judge. Now...I'm familiar with the concept of a triangulated four link suspension, and to clarify my plans, here they are: I'd like to reinforce the chassis by, for all intents and purposes, adding a ladder bar frame to the car's existing unibody construction. I.e., I'd like to use metal stock to tie the front and rear of the car together. I was informed that the S30 chassis isn't the strongest thing in the world and could do with reinforcement before applying any sort of horsepower. It was suggested to me by another member that has undertaken the 7M swap, and in the interest of A) safety and B: reliability, I'm going to do this. I have a cut 9inch housing and axles with differential (posi, of course). This illustration depicts fairly accurately what I'd like to do, albeit on a different chassis. In any case, my questions: 1) Does anyone on here have experience with triangulated four links? 2) Does anyone on here have experience with heim joints? To elaborate: I'm considering the use of heim joints instead of poly bushings. However, as I understand it, heim joints have a certain range of misalignment, as it's referred to, which, in most cases I've found ranges between 11 and 17 degrees of deflection. Will a triangulated four-link setup be able to move enough to exceed this 11-17 degree maximum? There are high-misalignment heim joints available (for a fairly substantial price) whose angle maximums fall between 18 and 22 degrees of misalignment. Would the normal heim joint be suitable for a this setup, and would it likely experience higher alignment angles than it is capable of withstanding? 3) I'm considering using T303 stainless steel bar stock to build the links, rather than tube. This would allow me to simply mill down the ends and thread them for the heim joints. Is this ill-advised? I understand weight may become an issue, although I didn't see how four stainless steel bars would create that large of an issue in a gutted '71 Z. However, again, I bow to the wisdom of those with more experience, and would happily admit my error if it is. I have access to a lathe and all equipment needed for welding or fabrication. Here is a link to where I intended to purchase my heim joints, if I decided to go that route: Poly Performance

the 5M-GE came in 1984 to 88 cressidas as well as MK2 supras, and was later replaced with the 7MGE. The GTE version was only available in the Supra. They're supposed to be fairly simple swaps, but Karl (another 7M swapped member) told me last night that particular care should be taken in regards to the chassis and suspension. If you do the swap, the 7M would be great, as long as you took care of their factory issues, such as the head gasket (simple fix) and oiling issues (another simple fix). These are the only two major problems that 7Ms face, and as I said, they're simple to fix.

Wow, that is sweet. I really wanted to put the 7M in, and i thought the soarer trans wouldn't work...as it happens, I have the extension housing...bahaha

Take 2JZ-GE, install 2JZGTE factory head gasket. Remove distributor, install 7MGTE camshaft position sensor (requires slight modifications; a dremel tool does this fine), cut water temp, oil pressure, etc. pigtails from 2JZGE wiring harness. Install 7MGTE coilpacks, or, alternatively, extend coilpack wiring and install IS300 coilpacks for flush, clean look. Wire into 7MGTE engine harness. Install turbocharger and manifold, and whatever desired style intake (will require aftermarket forward facing manifold to clear Z hood, IIRC Install 7MGTE 440cc or better top feed injectors and (IIRC) 7MGTE fuel rail. Crank engine, drive, enjoy. This is the MK3 Supra method of installing a 2JZGE w/turbocharger for the least amount of money. It's the route I'm taking with my MK3 Supra, and there are guys on the Supra forums running this type swap very easily with good reliability. You're looking at between 300 and 500USD for the long block, and then you need to source 7MGTE wiring harness and CPS (incidentally, I have these) as well as a computer. The 7MGTE computer needs to see boost to run properly, but the engines are similar enough that this process works just fine. *EDIT* I forgot to mention: a stock 2JZGE will make FAR more horsepower than you will likely EVER want in your 2500lb Z-car. You'll likely never need to upgrade it unless you are simply wanting a large horsepower number. In terms of drivability, anything over around 350hp will start to seriously degrade the safety of your car, disgusting quarter mile times notwithstanding. In other words, it'll be a rocket with 350hp. A 2JZ will do that bone stock with a small turbo. Do it. Oh. Or you could pay 1800+USD for a twin turbo setup. Your choice.

Exactly. I hacked, even if I hacked in the most proper way I could think of to hack, with all the proper parts save the firewall, and still...it's hacked. Unfortunately, I'll always know it was hacked, and that is aggravating. So if you want RHD, my suggestion is the same as Tony's. Buy one. Now, as for Tony...just where exactly can I find a Fairlady for $1500. I'd REALLY like to know.

Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the wiper cowl. I got rid of my wipers...lol. Yeah, skimattybee, the 260 and 280Z wiring is specific to RHD or LHD. For that matter, so is the series1, but where the series 2 uses RHD or LHD specific molded plastic wire loom for the dash harness, the series 1 stuff uses regular old convoluted tubing and little bendy clip things to hold the harness in place. It can be swapped over pretty easily, where the series2 stuff can't be swapped easily. But yeah, it's a pretty big thing, and honestly, for the expense, trouble, and lack of "originality", I would just buy an original RHD car. They come onto the market now and again, and you might be able to snag one at a decent price. I love my car, but it will forever be a swapped 240Z, not a Fairlady.

Is that right? I took some measurements, and I admit I'm not exactly sure how much longer the Soarer's R154 is than the Supra's...I was led to believe that it would definitely not fit. I'm not very satisfied with the fact that my shifter is somewhere in my dash...

Well, the dash will run you $1500 or so, minimum, I should think. I could be wrong, but I'm sure it isn't cheap. You'll need the pedal box, the steering column, a steering rack (you might be able to flip it), the firewall, and a new throttle pedal. Oh, and since you have a series 2 car, you'll need most or all of the JDM body harness. Otherwise you're going to need to cut your factory harness to ribbons or build a completely new harness. It's a cool swap, and they're awesome to own (I own one.), but in the end, it's an exercise in impracticality. This is one of four cars that I own, so practicality in it is NOT an issue. I love the car, and enjoy driving it, but in a car that I wanted to possibly use on a daily basis? Absolutely not. Oh, and you'll need to obtain the JDM heater box and blower motor if you want a factory heat/ac system. You'd be better off buying a real Fairlady for what you'll have tied into the parts. The only reason I managed to do mine is because I had a real Fairlady that was rusted to pieces and a decent/fair series1 Z to play with. And I managed to get it all at a good deal. Otherwise? LHD FTMFW.

You're looking at between 1000USD and 2200USD for the engine. Whether or not you get a manual trans will affect the price, obviously. If you get the engine sans transmission, You'll need to source an Aisin R154 manual trans from a USDM Toyota Supra (87-92), and a R154-JZ bellhousing from either eBay or Driftmotion.com. The Supra R154 is easier to install, as the extension housing (that holds the shifter assembly) is shorter than the Soarer extension housing. It doesn't fit perfectly, and you'll likely need to do a little trimming, but with the soarer trans, you would likely end up needing to cut a new shifter location or push the engine forward in the bay. Driftmotion sells new R154 JZ Bellhousings for 335USD. You'll need that, as well as the clutch and flywheel. If you're lucky, your engine will come with a manual trans flywheel and not an auto trans flexplate, but that's on your luck. Once you get all that, you should be ready to drop your engine in. Keep in mind that the 1JZ and 2JZ have similar blocks, and share a lot of common parts, like water pumps, etc. Also, the oil pan MAY or MAY NOT need to be changed. I can't remember if they had a bunch of different ones like 2JZs. Just want to keep you informed. I'm pretty knowledgeable about Supra stuff, seeing as how I own three of the buggers.

Out of curiosity, what parts are you looking for? I happen to be in dire need of a RHD firewall (you understand my difficulty, yes?) and would be interested to know if you happen to come across one...

I bought a gasket today. The intake-to-block gasket. Four days, from felpro. Ridiculous.

Waiting on a youtube video to load, so here we are. I tied up a few things today. Got my fuel lines finished, out of braided SS aircraft lines, and the carb breather bowls and whatnot. Pictures later. Fixed a little rust on the hood and sprayed some paint on it. I decided to put the battery box just behind the passenger (driver for LHD) seat, between the seat and shock tower. It uses two allthread rods with wing nuts to hold it down, so I think it'll work well enough. I cleaned the back of the car out and sorted my parts out. I understand there are a few KA24 guys out there, and I'm considering a KA swap, since I've located a KA24DE, harness, ECM, trans, and other parts for $200. I put the 7M back in my Supra. Well, there we are. Update for the day. Also thinking of getting some Recaro knockoff seats. I'm 6'4", and the stock seats won't go back anymore, lol, so the car is a tad difficult to get in and out of.

Cool beans. Link?

Yeah, I'm not sure...my swap came with the RHD rack, so I didn't really look at it all too well. Just popped the RHD rack in. Any idea if anyone's ever done a linkage-to-cable conversion on the carbs? I'll admit I haven't even looked yet, but if you know of anyone...

I did this: and stuck on my new hood.

i'm told you can flip the LHD rack and it works just fine. I looked at it and it seems like it would, but the angle on the rod might be a bit wonky.