SpeedRacer

It's a 350 http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/CHV_BLK.html

Sorry guys (and Gals) I've been off line for a bit due to my Abit SE6 motherboard cooking my PIII 700E and then the replacement 933EB!!!! So now I have an ASUS CUSL2 MB and another new CPU. Whew, what an expensive problem. Anyway, welcome Brian and thanks for the kind words Rick. Besides the info on this site in "Featured Cars" you can get some additional pics and info here http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294856715 Other than dealing with the air cleaner the V8 does not cause any problems with the kit. The biggest problem I had with the kit was the nose fit. Tom McBurnie did a pretty good job of fixing it so the later kits from Stable Autoworks and Thunder Ranch are much better. The car is super solid with no squeeks or rattles. Of course there is a Z under it all so it turns out to be a great riding and handling car. With the kit it draws a huge amount of attention and is a blast to drive. You can contact Jeff Krekeler at Stable Auroworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ or Tom McBurnie at Thunder Ranch http://www.thunderranch.com Please email me if you need more information. I'd be glad to help! Good luck with your project.

Yup - Motorsport Auto - http://www.zcarparts.com/

I had the Hooker kit in my car at first and then switched to JTR. The Hooker (Scarab) kit does not permit the setback of the engine due to the front motor mount design. And yes, one pipe slips out so you can get it around the steering shaft. Sorry, but he long tube Hooker headers did not fit after I made the change to JTR. Here is an interesting article over on the Sanderson Header site http://www.sandersonheaders.com/letsgettech3.htm If you are not building a race car, you might fine block huggers perform better than long tube headers for the street.

When I went from the 3/4" to the 15/16" I could tell the difference in both pedal pressure and travel. Definitely less pedal travel but actually LOWER hydraulic pressures. Since the 240Z has a small booster I have to stand on the pedal much harder to lock them up. If you have an automatic I think you can fit a larger booster to help offset the higher pedal pressure required, (if you have enough engine vacuum).

Matt, I'm running TrickFlow aluminum 23 degree heads http://www.trickflow.com/product/23_cylindarheads/product_index_23.htm and they very good. With 64cc chambers and flat top pistons it comes out to ~10.5:1 compression ratio so I can run the engine on 93 octane pump fuel. I just checked the paperwork that came with them and they will fit the 262, 283, 305 and 307 small block Chevy's as well as the bigger bore engines. And yes, they have the big 2.02/1.60 SS valves. In most big valve heads the 2.02/1.60 valves hit the top of the bore if it is not at least 4.00" in dia. However, if you run smaller valves (i.e. 1.94/1.50) they should clear the top of the cylinder bore. So yes, you can buy a set of TrickFlow 23 degree heads now and then swap them to a 350 or larger later on. Check Summit for prices.

Al, you might want to give John Washington over at VR Engineering http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html a call since he has been bonding his fiberglass kits to Z cars for many years. Sorry, I got a gallon of the stuff with my kit but I can't remember the name.

You might try to get in contact with Eric over at ZParts because I think he knows a couple of guys that have them http://www.jps.net/zparts/home.html BTW - He also has a pic of a 32 valve/4 cam Lexus V8 in a Z car on his site.

Wow is Morgan right on! Remember seeing the fuel guy all dressed up in his sealed silver suit with special enclosed helmet on. That stuff would take the paint off the nose of the car following behind! BTW, Toluene is also found in paint thinner. The truth is that it burns quite slow (very high octane) but contains more BTU's than gasoline. At the high boost levels they really needed to slow down the burn rate to prevent knocking. Here is a triva question for you. The current rules call for 102 octane "pump" fuel and the current F1 engines have 13+ compression ratios. Why don't they have a pre-ignition (knocking) problem anymore? Answer: At 19,000+ RPM's the engine just plain doesn't have time to form pre-ignition in the combustion chamber.

DrewZ - You can also check out some of the panels that John Washington at VR Engineering has http://www.reactionresearch.com/automotive.html

Hi Jerry, I have TrickFlow 23 degree heads on my 327 and I love them. The papers that came with the heads states that they fit all 262 - 400 SBC motors up to 1995. You can call them at (330) 630-1555. I also have Hooker Block Hugger (ceramic coated) headers and they fit but it is real close on the number 3 and 4 cylinders. Hard to get a wrench on (I've broken two so far) and the plug boots are very close to the pipe. I'm using Moroso Blue Max 8mm wires and it hasn't seemed to hurt the boots yet so maybe it's OK. If you can aford them I would go with Sanderson headers.

Yeah Mike, Sanderson cast headers can be expensive. I counted 30 different SBC headers on this page http://www.sandersonheaders.com/enginetype/chvysb49eng.htm and that does not include all the variations for different aftermarket heads (Edelbrock, Trickflow, Dart, etc.) However, they do have 1 7/8" block huggers for a SBC http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc178.htm. Or how about the http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc1ho.htm D port block huggers for those of us with HPO heads. They start at $225 but go higher if you want ceramic coated or stainless steel. Check'um out!

Ditto on the alignment and check the mounting of the alternator bracket. Also check to see if any of the pulleys wobble. They do sell shims for the waterpump if you need one. Summit and Jeg's sell deep grove pulleys that should solve the problem but it will cost you a few bucks. Most of the HPO (solid lifter) SBC engines in the late 60's and early 70's had deep groove pulleys from the factory if you want to check some of the local yards.

Mike, you might want to read this article http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson/headertech.htm and they have a link to Sanderson from their site. Sanderson offers a bunch of very high quality headers for the small block Chevy. I think they offer almost a dozen different block huggers and then some. Check it out.

I have Trickflow aluminum heads and the instructions just had you tighten the head bolts in three stages (32, 52 & then 70 ft/lbs). They did say you could re-torque after running but it was not required.

Just had to add my $.02 in here as well. Txtrucknut, these guys are right on. I first tried the John's Cars (Scarab) conversion and then switched to JTR http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html It is the only way to go and if you are careful it will look and drive like the factory engineered it that way. With the lite-weight parts the engine will weight no more than the old Z engine. It will be placed much farther back in the car (completely behind the front axle!) and, (since it's a V type engine instead of a tall SOHC in-line 6) your center of gravity will be lower. The result is a car that not only rides better than the original car but it handles better and goes like stink! The 350/350 will be OK but you should check out the rear axle ratio. Without overdrive in the trans. you don't want to rev it to high on the highway. Not that it will hurt it but your mileage will suffer and it might be a bit noisy. Noe repeat after me....JTR, JTR, JTR, JTR, JTR.

Some of it may may be your driveline angle. Stop over at Pete's web site http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm and check out the info he has on this - it's really well documented and I think it will help. The harmonic blancer/crank pulley not running true is a bad thing. Even if it not causing the vibration it will be effecting the engine and belt(s). Stock harmonic blancers can come apart at high revs and that is really bad. They're not cheap but you might want to consider a fluid damper from some like Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/

You are right Yuichi - It is a great forum with a lot of folks that have a great deal of knowledge on Z Cars, and about cars in general. Sorry, I can't help you with the mirrors but good luck.

Hi Yuichi, It's good to see you over here from ZDriver.com. Check out Pete's site http://www.tidalwave.net/~pparaska/ because I think he was going to install some Toyota (Tercel?)ones on his car like Jim Biondo did.

Hooker has been selling the Scarab kit for many years now (10+ years at least) and I think you can get the full length headers from them. I'd give Summit a call and see if they help.

Hi Frank, Glad to hear that the master cylinder worked. You should be able to throw some pretty quick shifts!

Jim, The PAW Hooker kit is the old Scarab kit and mounts the motor to far forward and to high. You would be better off with the JTR kit (buy the book) http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html If you don't use angle plug heads you can use Hooker "Block Hugger" headers.

I first put a 1" Tilton master cylinder on my car with the Corvette type hydraulic setup. I didn't like how fast the clutch grabbed so I changed to a Tilton 3/4" version and took out the stop that John B mentioned. Works great know. The master cylinder was used for less than 50 miles. If it will help and you want it, I'll sell for $35.00 including shipping. Just let me know.

Wow, I'm jealous!! 302 mouse motors are awesome and love to rev so I would go with a turbo setup. I'd do a small one or twins so you don't get to much turbo lag. Install a boost control knob on the dash and have fun!!!!!!

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