Ed260Z
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Posts posted by Ed260Z
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I'm new to welding, and my understanding that Al is a lot harder to weld on. Not to mention my second point is that I want to keep the stock gauge.
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more of the while im at it disease.
Is there a shot or a pill I can for this?
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I think that the SR20 will slip before the the 26's, so less torque & shock is transmitted trough the drive line.
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Hold your wallet in your own pocket mister money bags!
I guess the real questions is when do you stop. When I was figuring out this swap I thought the Walbro 255, and some new lines would be all I needed. And then the monster jumped out and said "for a few more dollars you can the Aeromotive A1000, and it will be the last pump you need to get!" So I said great idea, I hate wasting money on something that I'll be replacing soon any way. So of course I need to get some High flow filters to protect my investment, and I midas well get a FPR while I'm at it. And I guess change all the lines and fittings.
Man that stuff adds up fast. LOL
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It seems like a lot of work to go through for not much more gain in performance. But I guess it depends what your going to use the car for. ITB's are great for auto-cross type events, and the TB is great for Drag. Either way there is not much of a difference, until you start making Mega HP.
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There might be some kind of side feed fuel cell, but I'm not sure how well they work or if they exist.
I've looked, and it seems that it's only a custom cell. As in $$$$$$$$$$. If I could find a cell with an off center filler I could use a 45*neck, and a remote filler from Summit. I'm already going to be spend $1K on the fuel system, so whats another $300 or so.
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the welding part is easy, just be careful with the thin metal, dont let it get too hot. if your going to take out the wheel well and put on an extension why not just put in a fuel cell?
I want to keep the stock filler location. And from what I've seen most if not all of the cells fill in the middle of the tank. I would need to drop the cell pretty low to have enough clearance to run a filler neck. A fuel cell would be the simplest way to get it done, the way I want. Do you know of a way to run the filler from the stock location? The only examples I've seen run the tube through the cargo area, which I don't want. Another thing is that I also want to keep the stock gauges, and the GM sending units won't work with the Datsun fuel gauge.
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Certain systems have different ways of doing this. I'm still confused on the whole topic.
As for me' date=' I plan to plug all but 1 of the vents on top of the gas tank. I'm still going to be concerned with the return line and the surge tank though. I might route the return from the surge tank, back to the original gas tank.[/quote']
The vent lines on the tank are there to allow the fuel to fill all the way up. If you look at your tank you will see that it has a few high spots, (so that it can conform to the floor of the car.) and the vent lines are connected there. You might loose 1/2 to 1 gallon of capacity if you plug up most of the lines.
Right now I'm toying with the idea of heavily modifying my 260Z tank. I'm going to divot the lower pass side, to allow for a twin exhaust. And then run new Exit and return lines of the size I want. -8 & -6. I might also remove the tire well, and weld in an extension on the top of the tank. (for more capacity) All of this will require me to split the tank open, and of course learn how to weld. LOL
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Alright 45 days it is. You know you didn't have to twist my arm. LOL.
The R34 comes with a pull type clutch, Is it as simple putting in a push clutch, or is there more to it?
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What about the other question? And why do you think the R34 is the way to go. What makes it better than the R33?
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I think McKinney charges around $350 for the wire service.
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The sensor head on mine was only about 3-4mm. Those look way to deep to fit. You could cut off the stock mounting tabs and weld them back further down in the tunnel.
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Here is my new dilema. I can get an R33 in a few days, or get an R34 in 45 days. What to do?
Is the R34 worth the wait, and why?
Now for a stupid question; Are the RB26 & RB25 flywheel the same size?
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Why not weld in new mounting tabs a bit further back in the tunnel. I think that will make a much better, and simpler install.
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Here ya go' date=' sorry for the delay.[/quote']
That looks like a broken Elec Sensor. Am I right? Mines broken a little further down, but otherwise looks the same.
I had no Idea that any of those came with Mech Sensors. I was thinking of using this so I keep my stock Speedo. http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm
I also plan on using the MSD Tach Adapter so that I can use the stock Tach.
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If your smelling gas it's because you need to replace those 30yr old + lines. If your getting rid of the Evap controll system you can loose it. But as of yet I haven't heard a good reason to get rid of the Evap Sys.
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People plug some of the vent lines, but not all. If you plug them all you will not be able fill the tank all the way, and you will have fuel starvation as the tank empties.
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On another note' date=' anyone know if a Z32 speedo sensor will work?[/quote']
I hope so. I bought J Tayor's Tranny from him, and the Speed Sensor was crushed in transit.
Since I'm getting a RB26 w/AWD tranny, will that sensor fit in the GTS tranny?
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To the best of my knowledge, the tank doesn't ever need to be under pressure.
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I've got half a sensor I could take a pic of.
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Not to bring your hopes down or anything' date=' but rarely...... and almost never, do I ever have a problem free session when working on ANY car. So i can almost gaurantee your gonna run into a few head scratchers, no matter how much your study. its just the nature of working on cars.
But thats ok because you have us at hybrid for help![/quote']
Your not going to bring my hopes down. Rarley does anything work out exactly as planned, no matter how much you plan ahead. But I figure when I run into the problems I will hopefully have some idea of what to do next.
With my job I have more time to plan, and less time to actually do it. And currently I'm useing my Z as a dailey driver. So the down time has to be minimal. I'm going to start the prep work while the car is still on the road. I figure the actual Engine/Tranny install will take a day or 2. Final plumbing a day. Elec 1-3 days. Plus head scrathing 5-7 days.
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Where do I get an HKS Rail? And how much?
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I saw this used JUN Fuel rail, but I can't find much info on it. The JUN site doesn't even show it available anymore.
It looks like a nice piece, but is it worth $200?
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He doesn't even have the motor yet (to my knowledge). Oh yeah and...
bump
Hey no motor yet. It needs to thaw out around here first. LOL Working in 30 degree weather is not fun. Right now I'm gathering all the parts and information I need. I want to know what I'm doing before I start. I won't have time to mess around scratching my head' date=' once I start. The engine will be last (Probably at the end on March) I want the engine in & running within 2 weeks of starting the swap.
I think I have all of the mechanics of the swap worked out in my head. The Elec is still a bit sketchy. But I'm working through it. The plan will be to open up the stock S30 harness, splice in the RB, and re-wrap it. Now just got to figure what wire to splice where.
Hey Ed,if you look under the dash, on the passenger side, there is a bunch of harnesses that connects the stock s30 engine harness to the chassis. go to the harness that has the start signal wire on it, i think it has like 6-8 prongs on it, and i beleive the start signal wire is black with white stripe. take a test light and try the other wires on that harness for power with the turn of the keyswitch. that was the most convienient place that i found to splice into because all the rest of the wires that i needed to splice into were in that general area. for ex, the start sig, the stock s30 coil power wire ( i used for RB IGN power) , water temp wire that goes to gauge, and ecu power, etc.
basically everything you need to wire the RB into s30 are under the dash, passenger side, just start playing with a volt meter.
Thanks for the info
Gas Tank
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted