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Ed260Z

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Posts posted by Ed260Z

    RB25DET Custom Driveshaft

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Ed, but he might be asking about the other one too?

     

    If you mean fentin_fury he's got a S30 as well. But if you mean you also have a 280ZX who's cooler then you bro. I think I'll have to move to Cali just so I can be around more Z freaks like me. I can't remember the last time I saw another S30 by me. LOL

    My RB is in

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    The big problem is the the S30's aerodynamics SUCK :cry2: in a big way. So the car is inherently unstable to begin with at speed. The lower you can make the CG the better. Rick Wong and Q (240Z Master) both make mounts for the S30 that will put the engine as low as possible. But I think the Q is still refining his design.

    My RB is in

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    Sorry guys... Is my question really that dumb? My motivation to do this RB swap just went down. <--EMO... hahah.

     

    All of the RB's have the same block. you need the mounts from a 200ZR (JDM 300ZX) to drop it into the S30. But this does not mount the engine in the ideal location. There are several posts on this subject already. :search:

    My RB is in

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    You'll probably want to go with the 4.11 rear in the car. It will give you a better launch, and good on road characteristics. Should knock off over 1 sec from your time.

     

    I'm pretty sure you won't be able to fit the 26 intake on the 25, with out some serious fab work. That intake looks custom, or may be JUN, MINES, GREEDY, ect............

    The Dreaded 6

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

     

    This is the GT cooling setup you see on some of the race cars such as JUN and the Exvitermini stuff. Using a mill you plunge down to the water passage in the manifold between ports 1-2' date=' 3-4 and 5-6. I then welded a -8 male an fitting to the manifold. This will run to a reservoir that will also be a merge for the water returns for the turbo's. From there it will run back to the radiator. Basically, all the water leaves the head and runs to the front of the intake via the log on the bottom. To help expidite coolant flow from the head we supplement by adding additional outage points from the manifold. It would have probably looked a bit more clean on the bottom of the manifold, but might as well show it off.

    [img']http://www.speedshopthagard.com/pics/projects/RB26DETT/cooling1.jpg[/img]

     

    This is the coolant plenum I just fab'd. The 3x -8 AN connectors are fed from the intake manifold. The 2x -6 AN

    connectors are the coolant returns for the turbos. The single -12 AN connector on the bottom connects to the radiator.

    coolant.jpg

     

    The coolant plenum runs as it did stock to the front of the manifold where I have fab'd a -16 AN male connector and also welded a -16 AN connector to the radiator. This will supplement the stock setup. The radiator has both a -12 and -16 bung for the inlet and another -16 for the outlet.

     

     

     

    Does anyone want to elaborate more on this mod? Specifically the mod to the ITB's.

    RB Twin Turbo Exhaust

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    I'm going to go with a 3.5" from the down pipe to the muffler. And I'm going to notch the tranny support so that the pipe will fit up higher. I still want a dual look, so I think I'll mount the muff just behind the tranny. It will have two 2.5" outlets to make the "dual" look. A lot of modern performance cars do this the get the look of a dual.

     

    I'm going to fab up my own exhaust, and I wanted to know if a MIG welder is OK for this application? I don't have a shop, and I don't want flammable gas around the house.

     

    Thanks for the replies guys.

    Ed

    RB swap in progress

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    Looking good so far. I'll be joining you soon. Are those dumps from SS auto chrome? I've read mixed reviews, but no one has said that they actually used them. I want to get their Exhaust Manifold & Dumps myself, since they seem to be the only ones that keep the stock placement of the turbos.

     

    What Rad are you using?

    battery relocation

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    The "Tool Box" behind the seats is not Square all the way down. It starts to taper forward about 3" down, and mets up with the front at a depth of 9". To make the Batt fit right you will need to cut into the under body of the car to make a true box. I hope you can follow me with that.

     

    I plan on relocating my batt as well, but I'm going to put where the spare is. (Or would have been, depending on how you look at it.) I will be replacing my 74 tank with one from a later model S30 (76-78), and in the process I will need to remove the tire well so that it will fit. That will also leave me plenty of room to weld in a Batt box just in front of the new tank.

    dual exhasut

    in Exhaust

    Posted

    It seems that on a N/A engine you want to keep some pressure in the exhaust system, to increase it's power. But does this hold true for Turbo applications? More specifically Twin Turbo'ed cars.

     

    A turbo wants 0 pressure in the pipes, so that it can flow as quickly as possible. So in the case of a TT application it seems to me that 2 pipes would be better than. Also when you take into account that a overly large pipe will not flow as quickly as a properly sized pipe. Ideally a TT motor making around 600HP wants a pipe that's 4-4.5", which is to big to fit under my Z. Now two 2.25" pipes (one for each turbo) will be easier to fit under the car. And with a smaller diameter it should have a much higher exhaust velocity.

     

    I'm no expert on the subject, and this more of a long winded question w/ explanation of my reasoning behind it. If I'm wrong please correct me.

    It's almost time! Half Cut or Not?

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    Is it just an engine or a halfcut? My mate has an R33 and a R34. In fact the R33 is quicker for some reason.

     

    It's just the engine,tranny (AWD), ECU, & sensors. I think that this is worth the "penalty" of not having a front clip. I'll have to do a bit more head scratching, and I'm going to be spending some extra money on parts that I could have gotten off the clip. Like the factory boost control solenoid. (I was going to replace it eventually any way)

    I really wanted to install the engine completely stock to begin with. This way if I have any problems I can rule out any modification that I may have done. This will be a HUGE learning point for me, as I stooped working on EFI engines over 12 years ago. Never mind try and modify them safely.

     

    I'm almost surprised to hear that your mate's R33 is faster than his R34. I thought that the R34 was suppose to be the best out of the RB series. I know that the R32 had some issues that where corrected in the R33. I also thought that the R34 had revised turbos with Ball bearings, to help them produce more boost safely.

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