garretthes

I just replaced the fuel pump with a new one. I plugged the throttle body and blew through a vacuum line to see if it held pressure and found a few small leaks. I will try it again. But I have replaced every line except for the one under the intake.

There is no MAF. This year has an AFM. I checked the settings yesterday and they are factory. The silicone glue has not been touched. If the air induction is leaking between the AFM and the injectors, wouldn't it be running lean? It's not backfiring at all which is good. When I had low fuel pressure from the clogged lines it was backfiring a lot.

The power is pretty good. The plugs are brand new. I don't have a way to test the injectors. I went through the fuel rail 6 months ago and replaced several frozen injectors by swapping them from an 83 parts car. Then I had another injector lock up, replaced it Monday. It is a PITA to get the fuel rail off this car.

I have come a long way with this car but can't figure this one out. Cranks right up, sputters, black smoke, the smell of gas is strong. It runs OK but rough if I drive it. Recently cleaned a lot of crud out of the tank. Replaced plugs with NGK New wires, cap rotor New CHTS Cleaned all sensor connectors. Replaced all vacuum lines Fuel pressure is running at 30. When I disconnect the regulator vacuum line it pops up to 34 so it appears the regulator is working properly. There is no gas in the vacuum line. When I stop the engine the pressure gauge pops immediately to 25 but doesn't move, even after several minutes. Thinking the injectors are NOT leaking. Also the vacuum is running low. It's between 5 at rough idle and 13 at higher rpm. I'm wondering if the injectors are dirty and staying open too long. We had the car running well BEFORE I drove it the first time. I'm guessing the drive shook up some of the crud in the tank (there was a LOT!) and caused the filter to clog. I'm also guessing some of the finer crud got through and has clogged the injectors. Put a can of Seafoam in the tank and let it idle for 40 minutes. I don't think it helped at all. Not sure what to try next...

Yea Im nervous about another online purchase. I swapped the MC with the parts car. It's an 83 so it required a few modifications. However, I was quickly able to get a reman for the 83 from a local parts store. Now if I can just figure out how to make the fluid level sensor wires work. The 79 has 2 reservours and the 83 only 1. How do I wire it so the brake light goes off the dash?

I have been looking for weeks for a re-manufactured master cylinder or repair kit for my daughter's 79. They are back ordered EVERYWHERE. Not interested in a junk yard part because they don't last sitting idle. Not worth the risk. No luck on Ebay either. If anyone has an idea I would love to hear it. I have posted in the parts wanted sections of several forums. We have an 83 parts car but the MC is different.

Excellent! How do I get you paid?

Actually I could buy the entire caliper if someone has one

Actually I would take the whole caliper

I need the toggle lever from the drivers rear. This is the lever the Hand Brake cable connects to. I need the washer and nut that hold it on as well. On the picture attached it's 23, 24, 25 and 26. Hopefully someone has a spare!

Need some help guys. My daughter's 79 is almost ready to drive. I need a few brake parts. I need the toggle lever from the drivers rear. This is the lever the Hand Brake cable connects to. I need the washer and nut that hold it on as well. On the picture attached it's 23, 24, 25 and 26. Hopefully someone has a spare!

I figured it out last night. It goes in just like it's laid out in the photo. The notch is where the seat belt attaches. There is a big plastic piece that covers this spot.

Here is an image of what the carpet looks like minus the small pieces on the side. The floor pieces are split front and back.

This is for a 79 280zx I can't figure out how the two notched pieces fit in the car. Which way to turn them, which side, where does the notch go and how does the front piece overlay the back. Does the edge of the front piece stop at the brace that runs under the seat? Also, how does the carpet fit around the foot rest on the drivers side kick panel? It would be great to get a diagram or pictures.

Update and question I replaced the ignition switch and fixed the coil power problem. Swapped it with the 83 switch. One last problem. I have a problem with a short to ground when I crank the car. The car cranks and runs but it blows one of my 20 amp fuses I replaced the fuse-able links with. I found that with the ignition ON the coil BW wire shorts to ground. I discovered that if I unplug the EFI relay the short goes away. I have traced the problem to the green wires at the relay. After close inspection of the wiring diagram I noticed one of the G wires leaves the relay then goes to a connector. It appears to my untrained eyes this connector (under C3) connects the G wire to a BW wire. Confused

Very strange about the coil ground wire. I'm wondering why it was there.?? I finally got it running. The problem is when the key is turned to the start position the coil loses power. We ran a temporary jumper from the battery to the coil and got it running. I'm hoping to fix that soon. Maybe the ignition switch?

I have read and searched this out. I read 10 pages of a similar problem but still have questions. Of all the Z sites this one seems to have the most knowledgeable and helpful people. My daughter wanted a Z project so we found a 79 n/a with an 83 Turbo parts car. The 79 was a driver when parked 2 years ago because the windows wouldn't roll up (I fixed this already). My guess is the car died on him and he never got it running again. I found several wiring issues. It had a new starter that wasn't wired properly. I toasted the Bw wire from the switch to the coil because the ground from the battery to starter was missing and I didn't catch it. I'm thinking he toasted the old starter trying to get the car to start. Anyway, I repaired the burnt wires and everything seems OK now except I get no spark. When the wires 1st burnt I replaced one that ran from the coil neg to the chassis. I can't find this on any schematic though. What the heck? I get 11 volts (charging the battery tonight) at the coil + to ground and zero at neg post to ground. I figured it might be the Ignition module so after reading several posts about swapping to the GM 4 wire I tried that tonight. No luck though. I will tackle it again in the AM. Also of note, I read where the ecu has a green LED that lites when in use. Does this apply to the 79 as well? I do have a FSM and will look more but no luck yet. I'm hoping the ecu is good because the parts car is a turbo Are there any threads on here that will help me? I read this thread- http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89168-240z-electronic-ignition-help/ Thanks guys. Long term plan is to swap an LS engine. I did that with my 1959 Apache Suburban and love it. I drive it anywhere and get 20mpg.