Zlovemachine

Hello guys, I need some help with this Freaky Car. I have a 240z with an 83 turbo setup and z31 ecu and maf upgrade. I need to know if i hooked my car up right. The car was running ok for about 6 months but the other day just took a crap on me. Thinking it had to do with wiring i disconnected everything and ran new wires in place of old wires to the coil but nothing changed. So i thought it was the coil and change that too but still nothing. Then i read more about the z31 swap and seen that i never used the pin5 wire i added that and to the car and it turned on and idle fine. When i went for a test drive car ran like crap was not able to go fast at all speed limit at max with bogging. What is happening here anyone!! I am just getting feed up with this CAR!!!!

Hello All, I believe I have a problem with my motors EFI. I was driving to buy new tires for my car when the car started to - what seemed like a miss fire. Thinking nothing of it I proceeded on my way. Half way to the shop my car stated to give up on me. It was Stumbling and unable to idle. When I would go to give it gas the car would bog even more but not die. Looking over the ignition wire when I finally puted home, nothing seemed to look bad. I turned the car on and quickly jiggled the ign. Wires and the car shut off and never turned on again. Thinking maybe the wires maybe bad I ran new wires from ECU to Ignitor NOTHING. Thinking it might be the coil I got my hands on a fairly good looking coil and ignitor hooked it up and bam it turned on. But when I went for a drive car would not accelerate more than a couple thousand RPM’s in each gear. So car drove but bogs when gassed. I NEED HELP! WHAT HAPPEN HERE! I have the Z31 ECU AND MAF hooked up. Before this car ran fine, I just haven’t use it for a week.

Thanks this is exactly the info i was looking for thanks. I will go ahead a use this setup and if i have any bad results i will post them!!

The problem is that I have already bought this size tubing over internet and do not really want to go through the hassle of pay for shipping asking if I can exchange and buying more coupler to fit on setup. I can exchange the other coupler I have already bought to fit this 3†setup. I didn’t realize how big 3†tubing really was till I open box:shock: . Well my setup is not really a stock setup. It has a T3/T4 turbo with flat top pistons make it high compress in 8.6.1 region. This is the whole reason for the intercooler. I just made a bad decision to go with 3†tubing. So the question remains will I lose power with this setup? And How much power loss am I looking? Would it really be worth pay all this extra money and time to reduce the tubing size?

Has anyone use 3" intercooler piping before and was their any bad effects of using such a large diameter pipe for a stock turbo intercooled setup. Intercooler has 3" inlet and outlet.

Thank you guys! this is the good stuff! Now I can buy with confidence! I know this might sounds stupid and redundant, but how do you know when you need a colder plug? The other little problem I had which I hope is related to plug heat is my Air/Fuel meter scans back and forth from a lean (red led) to rich (Green- Led) after I have driven the car for a while or after a hard run. Why would this Happen? (or should i start another forum)

Thanks for the info! That is exactly what i was asking, thank you very much! This is what you call help. I think im going to stick with the NGK's, copper is better for the MSD system anyway. Wouldnt two heat ranges be too much, from what i heard each heat range would be for 75-100 HP increace from stock settings. FYI - I did notice that when i bought stock bosch platium plugs (cheap kind) for my car. I did start to hear more knocking at higher RPMs. That was with stock timing (24 degrees) also.

I hate people who assume i dont search first!!!! Anyway thank you for the info guy:icon14:! i have some more questions. Is this plug 1 - 2 or more heat ranges from the stock plug? What gap should i use for that plug and timeing? Where should i be at with that?

Hello guys I really need your help today. I have blown 2 head gaskets running 5 PSI on what I thought was a completely stock setup. I was shock to have found out that the guy who rebuilt my motor put flat top pistons instead of dished when I decided to change the head gasket myself. So I need to know what kind of spark plugs (colder I assume) I should use and what timing (more retard I am guessing) with an 8.5-8.6 compression ratio. I have a t3/t4 type turbo and the z31 ECU and MAF setup.

I am having a problem with my car . It runs fine has power but after i blew my head gasket high boost a N/A injecor. Which i though i had the turbo injector. The car stalls out after a really hard acceleration, which i didnt before the new head gasket. I am now back to stock boost and i now have turbo injectors. When i accelerate fast and then get off the gas fast the car climbs down normally then as it approches idel it dies. Why would this happen spec are below.

I just bought a weber throttle body and i want to know what would be the best adjustment for this setup. The is a big idle screw, throttle plate adjustments and a small nipple bleeder that is very close to the plate. 1. Should i adjust the idle screw all the way out to good idle will throttle plate completely colsed or 2. Should i adjust the plate alittle with the idle screw also adjusted alittle.

I did the 300zx ECU MAF swap and now i am runnning really lean. It is so lean that it does not read on my Air/Fuel Meter Guage. it will only read if i floor it passed boost then it jump from not reading to to the first green light on the guage. I do have something wired happening with the return line there seems to be no pressure there at idle. The line is really soft compared to the really hard feed line. Why would this happen? I have a fuel cell and larger feed line and using stock feed line as return line. Could this be the problem?

Yes the same thing is happening to my car ( it jiters back and forth really fast from 5 to 10 psi but when i disconnect MBC a solid 5 psi is what i get ) we need some help guys! I am using the biggest nipple on the stock manifold i am tee it with a blow off valve. can that be a problem? Or can it be cheap MBC (Manual Boost Controllers)

Here is the answer that many people have been looking for when it comes to the 83 tubo ignition harnes: The Yellow/White which is suppose to be uncut should stay uncut (easier that way). This is the only wire you would use if you are not using the fuel pump modulator. (This is the other plug next to the 8 prong plug that is connected to the ecu harness.) Now just tap into the Black/White (BW) wires on EFI Relay and Ignitor Plug Both go to a switch source as in the plug that plugs into you ignition switch (Key Hole) on steering colum. Mine happen to be a BW wire also. There are two more wires one is a blue(L) wire that connects to the tach. The other is Black( wire (i think) which run off the BW wire to the ignitor this wire connects to the distributor via a condensor that is grounded.

Wow 39 people have seen this post 4 days and no help, not even look here dumba$$! I made same post yesterday at zcar and in 18 hour had a reply! :( Hey but dont worry about it guys the other 37 or so guys that might have been interested in this very useful information must have found it somewhere else!!!!!! I must not be cool enough ..... (Kicking a rock around right before jumping in front of a speeding 240XZT)

Ok i am only lost at the ignition harness plug but does this mean all i have to use the plug for is Wire 1 - yellow/white wire for ignitor uncut wire! Wire 2 - solid yellow from ignition plug or black/white wire from ignition harness for the switch 12V. So is the 12v switched power for the plug going into the ECU harness or is it for the ignitor? or is the solid yellow already a 12v switched power that i connect to black/White wire? and finally Wire 3 - Solid Black Ground wire only if i am using the fuel pump modulator?

Ok this is were i need your help guys i have read many threads and spent many hours reading this great stuff over and over. I still have a question about the 8 Prong plug (6 prong plug on 81 harness and pix) by the ECU, i know the answer is there im just over thinking here. I guess i need the extra eyes and brains here!!! Am i only going to using 2 wirings from 8 prong plug Y & YW? YW - Yellow/White: goes to the ignitor (I used the LW Blue/White wire that was in the harness to run the signal out to the coil; I used the YW wire between the empty terminal and the y wire) Uncut porstion From ignitor to plug of ignition harness right? Y – Yellow: is the start signal (I ran a wire to the BY Black/Yellow wire on the 77 harness under the dash) Am I to use start signal off 240z ignition Harness or connect to 83 Black/White wire to ignitor? Then i have a blue wire from 83 ign. harness thats just floating around, i believe this is tach wire? Does it connect to the NEG. side of coil? What side of coil connects to distributor? My referrences: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103683 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105103&highlight=coil+trigger http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620

Hey Guys, Has anyone use the cold start valve as a water/alcohol injector or fitted a stock injector in that place. I need help with using this set up for more safe and cheap horsepower. I am thinking big here and can use all the help I can get!!

hello guys, i have a couple of question i need to know. Lets say i have a stock turbo zcar with 10 psi of boost and a fmu that is 8:1... Does the fmu add fuel pressure to the stock pressure of 35 psi making it 115 psi or will it only go to 80 psi? and how many liters per hour equal Pounds per hour flow rate in a stock turbo Z car?