Jump to content
HybridZ

RTz

Administrators
  • Posts

    2943
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Posts posted by RTz

  1. Would it really be necessary to cap them?

     

    I'm wondering that if at WOT at a high rpm if there would really be a significant difference cause by the other valves being closed becaused they'd be closed for such a short time.

     

    (just thinking outloud)

    Mario

     

    Mario,

    I think even capping them would fall short of whats really happening. Keep in mind, every time a valve closes, it sends a pressure wave back up the runner. Theres only one valve open at any given time, so the 5 backwaves could have significant influence on whats happening in the plenum.

  2. Well thats no good..... I can't hear the fuel pump running on my 280z so what if I took a 280z fuel pump and mounted in line, would it make enough pressure to run the TPI system?

     

    Yes, TPI is typically 40-42psi, 280Z typically 38-40. No worries.

     

    I know my buddy has a 280z pump somewhere at his shop. If the 280z pump was ran without a regulator what would it be? 50psi' date=' 75psi, 100psi.... as long as it was 50psi and up that would be fine cause the TPI system has a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.[/quote']

     

    Be careful with this line of thinking. The more pressure you ask from a pump, the less VOLUME you will get. At 40psi, the stock Z pump should flow enough to run a stock TPI motor.

     

     

    But I would still have the problem of the return line going into the tank.

     

    There are plenty of vent lines in the 240 tank to get fuel back in but, you have a bigger problem than that... if you do not run a baffled tank or some sort of swirl pot, you'll uncover the pump pick-up under accel/deccel/cornering, causing very unpleasant surges.

  3. I am in the middle of installing a 1987 TPI fuel injection intake on my 1972 240z with a 350 smallblock 5 speed. I need a high pressure fuel pump to get me 38-47 psi to operate the TPI. I really don't want a external fuel pump due to the noise they make, so I was looking around and found out that a 280z fuel pressure is 36-38 psi. Would that be close enough???? If not, will a turbo model z make more fuel pressure? Or is there a in-tank fuel pump out there that would work easily and cheap? It just seems like if the 280z tank is a intank pump that it would be perfect for my needs since it would already have the return line there and it would hopfully fit. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks,Paul

     

    First, The 280Z's fuel pump is external. Second, I would assume you'll be using the TPI Fuel press. regulator (mounted to the pass. side rail, aft) so no worries on proper fuel pressure. Third, I once installed a '75 tank in a 240 ('77-'78 are larger) and it 'sorta' fit. The thing that I remember most is that the strap 'embossments' are in a slightly different location, so the strap brackets required some tinkering. Looks a litte funny as well.

     

    HTH,

  4. Guys I'm getting ready to do some research on intakes with soldworks's flowworks I've tested mine with disappoint that I've got a vortex that forms after the throttle body and sucks the air back out my t/b under 25psi of inlet pressure.

     

     

    TBS,

     

    The videos are very interesting... thanks for sharing. I am assuming you're modeling this as though all 6 valves are open and flowing continuously? If so, how much impact do you think there would be with the valves opening/closing (individually), causing there own reversion?

     

    Thanks again.

  5. I cannot break that sucker loose. I removed the flange from a spare diff...... Any suggestions???

     

    Hi,

     

    In my experience, this is not a recommended thing to do... There's a crush sleave setting up the tolerances. Removal and/or re-installation is a gamble. I've done it once successfully (I think). Others ended up with a howl.

     

    HTH

  6. Braap,

    Thanks for the plug.

     

    JSM,

    I pretty well agree with Braap. To say the same thing in a different way... Its been my experience that SDS will get a modestly modified Z up and running REALLY well in a short period of time with minimal headaches (if any at all). On the other hand, MS will take you 4 times longer, at times leave you scratching your head, and won't run appreciably better. BUT, MS has TON'S of room to grow. Radical cams, COPS, WBO2, ITB's, etc, etc, combined with datalogging and its low entry fee, is very attractive. Whats my point? I think you should choose one based on what you're going to do with your car.

  7. I've been receiving very helpful responses from you guys... but now... nothing. Did I make everyone angry with me? I'm sorry. What did I do? Did I expose myself as the moron I am? Im sorry... I've had no performance automotive exposure for the last quarter century. I still need help.

     

    Mike,

     

    I seriously doubt you offended anyone. If I remember your original post correctly, I got the impression what you're asking for isn't available (that I'm aware of). The closest thing to meet your needs would probably be a standalone engine managemnet system ie, Megasquirt, Wolf3d, etc.

     

    rt

  8. Funny you mention the more accurate timing thing. Ron Tyler actually tested that on an L-16. It is dual SU carbs, had Mega Squirt running ignition only, EDIS-4 and he also left the electronic dizzy in and with his Fluke “O” scope, was able to verify how much scatter difference between crank trigger EDIS and the OE dizzy. I’ll let him reply the results…

     

     

    Jon/Paul,

     

    Sorry for the deley... burned up my keyboard last night (damn Vino :-)) Anyhow, not sure how useful this is but I'll tell you what I did and you can decide for yourself. I installed a VR sensor on the crank of my 510 (still L- powered). I also installed the matchbox style elec. dizzy. This sensor is also VR. I then took a two channel O-scope and data logged both VR's. Keep in mind that the dizzy still had mech. advance (also vacuum adv. but disconnected). In general, 80% of the time, they 'scattered' inside of 4 deg. The remaing 20% of the time, there were scatters between 4 deg. and 8. I didn't spend a lot of time with this so take this as general info.

     

    Afterwards, I machined a trigger wheel to fit the dizzy shaft and paired it with a Hall effect. This eliminated the Mech. and Vac. advance, so now were dealing with primarily gear slop. I re-tested and found them both to ramain plus or minus 1 deg. A pleasant suprise... I had expected worse.

     

     

    HTH, rt

  9. To no one specifically,

     

    Just for clarification... I see a hint of interchangeably referring to wasted spark and dual post coils within this thread. They are not the same. You must use dual post in a wasted spark config. (or put both plugs in the same chamber). But individual coils, such as COP's can be run either sequentially or wasted.

     

    rt

  10. But it seems that you have it backwards, I'm not really sure you kind of confused me. The coil gives a positive voltage in reference to the block. Electrons flow from negative to positive, so it would flow from the little tab thinger on the plug ,arc across onto the electrode, and then through the wires and to the coil windings.

     

    Alex,

    I don't belive I have it backwards. This discussion pivots around the two plugs in series having opposite polarity. So, with one plug, you'd be correct, from ground strap to electrode. With the other plug, its from electrode to ground strap, as Braap's diagram is drawn in post 1 of this thread.

     

    HTH, rt

  11. One upside to wasted spark is that there are multiple coils sharing the electrical load where as with a dizzy ignition system, one coil has to fire off ALL the cylinders by itself. That is quite a load for one coil to handle at high RPM, especially at WOT or even more so under boost…

     

     

    Braap,

     

    One thing I'd like to clarify... peak ignition demand is frequently at peak torque (depending on the application), not always peak RPM. Your last sentence said that but it was a little "hidden".

     

    rt

  12. You are kind of right. 2 plugs are put in a series curcuit, Current is common in a series curcuit. It is the same and it is impossible to be different. Current times resistance equals voltage, and voltage times current equals power. If the resistance of the plugs are the same(properly gapped) Then the current should be the same and so on. Unlike most people think, there isn't really a lot of power in high voltage ignition curcuits. Because there is such a small amount of current.

     

     

    Alex,

     

    On the surface you're correct. However, take the typical single coil/distributor system and reverse the polarity on the coil and you will reduce the spark performance. Depending on the car, you may or may not notice a power drop, but you WILL likely notice a MPG drop. Its a subtle thing to be sure, but some folks are running some serious boost/RPM and, in my opinion, under those conditions, the benifits are tangible.

     

     

    I quote two gentleman citing roughly the same cause....

     

    "The center electrode in a spark plug runs hotter than its grounded electrode. Since electrons can be striped off of a hot electrode more readily than off of a cold electrode, the center electrode is always made the negative electrode. The result of this choice is that the arc across the spark plug electrodes can be initiated at a slightly lower potential when the center electrode is the negative electrode. (In this manner, thermionic emission aids in the establishment of the initial discharge.)

    Best wishes, Carl Cederstrand"

     

    And...

     

    "Spark plugs are sensitive to polarity and they will not function as

    efficiently it the secondary coil voltage is of the wrong polarity.

     

    The reason for this sensitivity is as follows. The centre electrode has

    a higher temperature, normally, than the ground electrode so that more

    electrons will be released from the hotter metal surface of the centre

    electrode than from the ground electrode.

     

    If the centre electrode polarity is more negative than the ground

    electrode (which is connected to chassis) then the earth electrode will

    attract electrons from the centre electrode; but if the coil secondary

    voltage polarity is reversed, the voltage needed to cause electrons to

    pass from the earth to the centre electrode (i.e. to make the gap

    conductive) is increased.

     

    All the best

    --

    John Harper"

     

     

    HTH, Ron

×
×
  • Create New...