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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

    Front Suspension shock tube modification

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I agree that the bump stop is now closer to the strut tube, but without a lot of experience here, I must ask, does it even matter.

     

    Jolane,

     

    Yet another way to say all this... If you lower a stock car with springs only, you will use up some of the quoted 3" of travel. If you lower the car 2" then you would have only 1" leftover before the top of the strut tube hits the bumpstop. You can put any damper in the world inside that tube and it will never change that. The most direct way to add more bump travel is to install a shorter damper and shorten the tube accordingly. If you shorten it 1" then, practically speaking, you'll gain 1" of bump travel (setting aside motion ratios for the moment). So now, in this scenario, you have two inches. The T3 gland nut does not address this in ANY way. I don't even see the point of it. If you lower a Z and you expect good handling the strut needs to be shortened. There are a couple of other ways to increase bump travel but they are a bit of a tangent.

    Redesigned TC Rods!!

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    it it because you realized the entire shock/strut assembly would have to rotate for it to change the angle?!

     

    Actually, I just imagined a one piece A-arm with its inner mounts parallel with the longitudinal axis of the car. Pivot the A-arm up and down... no need for its 'leg' angles to change right? Now, spin the whole A-arm assembly in a horizontal plane (so its rear mount is far outboard). Pivot the arm again... stilll no bind. It now just travels an arc that would promote caster change... BUT the angles between the legs don't change.

    Redesigned TC Rods!!

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    True, but IME having the TC on a clevis like that and being able to run a larger amount of caster was a big improvement over stock, poly, or GMachine setups I ran previously.

     

    I couldn't agree more... Brian's are also adjustable so I'm not seeing your point.

     

    When you're talking about 1" difference in the length of the arm (guessing since the tie rod end end also moves the pivot forward from stock probably an inch) I don't know that the difference in the caster sweep is going to be that huge an issue.

     

    Agreed' date=' probably not a huge issue. But I don't want any more caster change than necessary. I fail to see the advantage of the heim and combined with it being farther forward just doesn't excite me.

     

    I don't like the way you worded this part. I know what you mean, but I don't think the argument you make is really true here. The bolt through the clevis gets locked down once the caster is adjusted, so there is no pivoting of the clevis "as the caster changes with movement". The impression I get from reading your post is that the clevis can change its angle because it is left loose at all times.

     

    I think were talking about the same thing... we just have different opinions. No matter how tight the clevis bolt is, there is no way for me to imagine that it wouldn't rotate with even a small load. I'm not implying "leave it loose". However, I think torquing it to oblivion won't do anything either. *IF* there is caster change during travel (from a non-ideal location of the rear pivot point) then I don't see how it could NOT rotate. The angles must change. So something either has to flex, pivot, or break. Its possible I'm looking at this all wrong... If you type REAL slowly, maybe it will sink in :-)

    Redesigned TC Rods!!

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    because in all honesty' date=' i'd rather buy something that has had input from a board such as this, than the ones from T3...[/quote']

     

     

    If my opinion matters... Those don't really do anything for me. The heim bracket pushes the pivot point farther forward than Brian's. The farther forward the pivot is, the more caster change you'll have as the suspension reciprocates. Also, becuase of the caster change with movement, the angle between the LCA and the TC rod MUST change. With tech-toys design, the TC is clamped solidly... that means things must bend to accommodate the caster change. Brian's design has a pivot for this reason.

     

    HTH.

    BMW engine weight

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    If this is so - these engines are very lightweight or am I not understanding something here. Look at the weight of the M70 12 cylinder engine:

     

    M70

    V12 SOHC 24V. 1988-1994. 155kg 341lbs

    Used in E32 750il' date=' 850i

    5.0 (300bhp)

    [/quote']

     

    Hi,

    The info I have agrees with the 341lbs BUT... thats bare longblock only... no manifolds, starter, etc, etc.

     

    John's 522lbs would give it about 180 lbs of 'stuff'... probably not far off on a V12.

    I know adjustable LCAs have been discussed before...

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis

    Posted

    Hi all' date='

     

    I've been looking in to this idea of pointing the T/C rod at the ball joint, and I've got a slight concern that it may cause interference with the wheel rim:

    [/quote']

     

     

    Rob,

     

    I went out and took a couple pics. @ full lock... First pic clearly shows enough room for this wheel/tire combo... a 15x7, 4 1/8" backspace, with a 215/50 tire.

     

    TCRod.jpg

     

     

     

    Second pic... There is enough room for a 4 1/4" backspace... I'd say, with stock dia. springs, you'd never conceivably hit the TC if aligned with the BJ. However, with coil-overs and proper wheels, it looks like you'd run out of room.

     

     

    Tire.jpg

     

     

    HTH

    CV Axle Problem

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    PS' date=' as I recall, factory clutch type LSD's had a typical preload of ~35-40 ft-lbs. (with car in the air, and one wheel locked, only takes 35 ft-lbs force to break free your other wheel from the LSD clutch action). Autox's (I know Ron did this at least once right Ron?) may wish to have this tightened up to a higher limit approaching 90 or 100[/quote']

     

     

    Ross,

    Pretty well nailed it. The production car diffs ran, as you say, 35-45 and the last NISMO comp. diff I bought was close to 55. Nissan diffs are pretty easy to adjust and its necessary for a track car. How much depends on car set-up and driver preference... at minimum 55lbs. Go up from there.

     

    Tom,

    Very nice car! The fact you car didn't move one on axle isn't cause for alarm... especially if its a production car diff thats never been shimmed. The significant portion of the 'lock-up' comes from the side gears separating, putting pressure on the clutches. In order for the side gears to separate they have to have something to work against. Essentially, that comes from two places... what little grip is left on the inside tire and the pre-load on the clutches. The inside rear, generally speaking, dosent have enough grip to work against, hence the 'help' from the pre-load. However pre-load, on its own, isn't enough either unless its substantial. So the typical LSD, if you raise one wheel off the ground, won't provide much torque at all to the other. In normal conditions, once the reaction has begun, the amount of 'lock-up' can be substantial.

    Plug gap changed Dramatically?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    My understanding is that the heat range of a plug only affects the temperature of the center electrode and insulator.

     

    Sam,

     

    I respectfully disagree. The ground strap, if the proper heat range, will indeed run hotter.

     

    Taken from Champion spark plugs....

     

    "If you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug."

     

    Also, the way I understand choosing the right temp range is shown in the below pic...

     

    plugreading.jpg

     

     

     

     

    This clearly illustrates the ground strap running hotter. Twenty bucks says Braap is right :-)

    fuel pump relay

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Nobody knows? I'm starting to think the 75's fuel pump didn't have a relay, and maybe just was wired to a 12volt hot.

     

    Hi,

     

    Its located under the dash, nearby the steering column. It looks about the size of two standard relays side-by-side. It has two plugs attached to it (becuase its actually two releys, main and fuel pump) If memory serves, one plug is black and one is clear.

     

    HTH

    everyone that has built a custom intake for the L6

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I think your missing the high point of whats being analized in the videos. problems like a vortex or un equil plenum filling can be seen and corrected.

     

    I can only assume you're addressing me. I agree that you have an issue that needs resolution, but I also think its a terribly small representation of the big picture. I don't believe you can say that you have laminar flow or a propensity towards equal cylinder filling when your test's only show the static picture... too many other influences. No doubt, its a starting point and I appluad your efforts. However, once you show static flow to be acceptable... your work has only just begun. Of course, this is just my opinion... I could be wrong :-)

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