hoov100
-
Posts
1503 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by hoov100
-
-
Logan1:
Yes it is doable IF a Fuel Injected 350 engine with a good bottom end, compression and oil pressure can be found. Without this it WILL NOT BE DOABLE for $1000.. Further, with a Carb for induction, the short block will go down hill at an accelerated rate. If fuel injection is used and proper oil changes, then the short block will last LONGER.
LMAO......How did you come to this conclusion?
-
My vote goes for the chain link and either metal or plastic securely mounted to the fence about 10 feet high and the width of the wall. I would also recommend a sliding gate so you don't have to worry about swinging it out and hitting something or having to worry about something being in the way. It would also give you alot more space as you wouldn't lose any floor space with it.
-
I got GT5 when it first came out and here we are 8 years later and we still have the same old crappy sound. I would love it if forza would include some rally tracks though.
-
http://www.the370z.c...pes-option.html
The notion of the Datsun name "cheapening" the car is probably what set me off - especially considering that the point where they made the change to "Nissan" was the beginning of a very long slide to the point where Renault ended up taking them over...
Wow, when people say a majority of 350/370z owners buy there car for nothing but the status of it, they weren't exaggerating! It really makes me feel like the majority of 350/370z owners are a bunch of bumbasses..
-
Motor number 1 sounds like a street stock circle track engine. (stock block, stock heads, 9:1 2 barrel manifold..etc) Ask him if it was a circle track motor and if it is ask him who built it. Carbs and HEI dizzy's are cheap so I wouldn't really be worried about them.
-
If you have the block and heads already then yes. alot of the time people get on the "might as well go big" boat and go with a $700 set of forged pistons, $600 rods, $1500 crank, $900 heads..etc when people have made the same power level safely on cheaper cast pistons, stock rods with ARP bolts, cast crank..etc.
-
Yeaa... Smoking Tires/Farah is NOT a car guy.
I mean REALLY, The Fake Ferrari screams moden unibody w/struts. Car guys that REALLY like cars look at the assembly of parts and not just the image in 2 dimensions. I spotted the fake in 2 dimensions, It would have just BLARED OUT FAKE FAKE FAKE Ferrari the moment you opened a door.
That Smoking tires dude is just regurgitating the stuff he reads in car magazines, He has no idea what makes a car a car. He is NOT a car guy. He is just a wannabe TV star who could have just as well been talking about Ginzu knives.
I watched the first three seconds when they got to the "re bodied ferrari" and even just looking at the shape of the door you would know, not to mention that almost the entire rear half of the car is completely different.
Also not to mention you can distinctly hear an L-series...
On a third note, doesn't that steering column and ignition key placement as well as the plastic trim piece and turn signal/wiper stalk look like a datsun?
Fourth, They even acknowledged the infamous exhaust/gas smell! (probably from the tripple carbs and no evap system.)
They even used 240z seatbelts!!!!!
Holy crap there is even a 240z tail light cover in the back!!!
And even shoulder belts that just happen to be right behind where the 1/4 window was removed and right above the rear shock tower that isn't supposed to exist!
-
Just get them really tight. They need to be tight enough to seal and tight enough not to come undone.
-
lol... That motor is probably a hand grenade waiting to happen.
-
Not much of an update, we have decided to keep just the driverside floor for now so we won't have to build a new one. The entire passenger floor and firewall have been removed and we have decided on moving the motor back another 7.5 inches to give us 53% rear weight and we are going to offset the motor about half an inch to the right to offset the driver. We are also going to do a little more cage work as well as tin off the passenger side and make a lightweight firewall. Any suggestions as to what we should add on for chassis reinforcements are appreciated.
-
I did something similar to the OP's exhaust except I had long tubes, used a custom made x-pipe and had no mufflers.
-
My vote goes to a z32, they meet all of the criteria, especially if you start with a TT chassis. There are tons of aftermarket support, most major parts are still available through nissan as well as plenty of aftermarket pieces to turn the car into whatever you want it to be. Plus motor swaps are becoming more and more common in them every day. The only downside is that the suspension is pretty stiff and the rear end gets a little light when you start passing the 140mph mark.
The second choice IMHO would be the z31, with a little work it can handle great and brake good as well, would still be comfortable to daily and as long as the headlights are down you will still have some pretty good aero.
-
Check for the three basic things a car needs to run. and report back. And yes it either needs to be in park or neutral to start.
-
I don't believe datsun every endorsed belt buckles, from what I have seen the only swag datsun endorsed where jackets, shirts and hats.
-
Another good radiator that fits, is one from a 72 chevelle. I had one in my sbc swapped s30 for a while it fit nice and worked really good with the taurus fan setup. I honestly don't see a valid logical reason to use the v6 IROC camaro, except for the fact that they sell bolt in mount kits. TBH when it comes to radiators for the sbc s30 swap, I really like AFCO's/speedwaymotors, HOWE, c&r, and those cheap 2 core radiators on ebay.
-
Put a few ounces of PB blaster down it and let it sit for about 5 minutes, then pour MMO in after, let it sit for a few hours, then take a big breaker bar on the crank bolt and yank to break it free. It's most likely going to seriously shorten the life of the motor, but it beets pulling it out and going through it to get it running.
-
I run a little 3k CFM fan with no shroud on my circle track car without a problem. But we also seal every tiny little hole in the air box. I think there are a couple more important factors to look at when looking at airflow to and out of the radiator, like a sealed airbox, radiator cooling fin orientation, fan shroud, fan blade geometry and construction...etc I feel that we are just in a pissing contest at this point. A fan that has the ability to pull the correct amount of air to keep engine temps nominal is the correct fan.
-
Have you ever used a speedway unit in an S30 before? The thing I'm concerned about is fitment.
That's why you measure your core and find the closest fitting one. If I can make a 2" thick double pass fit in a z32 with an electric fan and still have plenty of clearance and without cutting anything, then the s30 should be a breeze.
-
Just jack up the rear of the motor and put a jackstand under a piece of wood and put it under the pan.
-
Thats what I'm sayin! If I'm gonna pay more than $300 for a radiator, I want to make sure it's going to be an all aluminum, fully tig welded unit.
I've heard horror stories of how even Griffin radiators (yes all aluminum) have epoxy holding the cores in place, and that if you get them way hot, or even just after many heat cycles, the epoxy begins to deteriorate, and leads to failure. I'm calling my local (extremely well respected) radiator place tomorrow, to try and get a ballpark for a one off unit. This guy has built for the best. Even made a radiator for one of Niel Young's cars. Not to mention a certain BBC / weiand 14-17 blower 240z here in KS.
Go to speedway or afco's website and get one that's closest to the dimensions you need. I know the speedway brand radiator's are either tru-kool or afco's in a speedway box and are fully tig welded. I have seen the epoxy literally blow out of the radiator at the track and it's not pretty, I have also taken the end tanks off some of the cheaper radiators and have noticed the cores where blown. (seen it on a couple koyo's as well)
-
To be perfectly honest here, with how cheap an all aluminum radiator is ($150-250 through speedwaymotors.com) I don't know why people would even consider the JTR radiator, when you can get new ones through napa for $50 less and you don't have to pay for shipping! This is all just my opinion here, but why would you spend that kind of money for a stock radiator with PLASTIC END TANKS! I have lost count on how many plastic radiators end tanks that have broken or started leaking even from normal driving, while I can count on two fingers how many all aluminum radiators that have broken or started leaking!
-
I'll chime in this ancient thread as well.
The VG30DE is an improved VG30E. They both can make very similar numbers... until about 5000 RPM where the VG30DE breathes much better.
It also has improved coolant and oil circulation, nothing major. I wish they had ditched the timing belt for a chain though...
Also, I6 engines are naturally balanced, and tend to produce more torque, everything else being the same.
I'll agree with that, with the VVT and heads that flow way better the dett should make more power then the ET.
As for the auto motors having smaller turbo's on the DETT's, as far as I know they have a smaller exhaust housing, the only two other things that I know of, is the intake cams are a little smaller and the ECU is supposedly detuned. This is all to help save the trans though.
-
Modern engine run hotter due to the engine burns cleaner and more efficient at a hotter temp. electric thermostat were included in some vehicles to keep the temp at a constant temp. To keep the coolant from boiling over the oems have increased the pressure. for ever psi of pressure increased the boiling point like 3 degrees.
you shouldn't have any problems keeping and engine cool with the proper radiator and thermostat. With a 2jz you might also add and oil cooler due to it being a turbo motor.
I don't know where you got that info, but most newer cars run about the same, the difference is that newer cars don't have as many hot spots where there is poor circulation or flow.
-
the problem with bikes is that the cool looking fast bikes suck to ride for a long ride and the good long distance bikes are ugly.i bought a 2002 yamaha fz1 new and still have it.currently has about 22k miles on it.the bike works great but-the seat is too close to the pegs or my legs are too long.i was in las vegas for a week and rented a bmw r1200gs(so called adventure bike)for 2 days and did a ride through death valley.did about 150 miles of dirt.bike is very tall and you would have to be at least 5'8" to ride it.i really like that bike.its kind of ugly.but it settled into a good 90 mph criuse with the grip warmers on no problem.young guys buy sport bikes but eventually they either give up on bikes or move out of sport bikes.the insurence is only expensive if you want full coverage.my fz1 has never had full coverage because when it was new i was quoted $2400 a year.at 42 years old with no tickets i wasnt going to pay that much.i got basic pl/pd with a big uninsured motorist coverage instead.most of the young guys with liter bikes if i check out the tires they have squid strips-they are only worn in the middle
Lol, like this?
How far you can go in one day on a bike is purely rider, I have gone 600 miles in a day comfortable on my 07, while others can barely do 100 miles on their goldwings.
Hybrid Z's paint jobs not loved everywhere....
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Lol, 12.9 with exhaust and an intake... Can we safely say the 370z is the next vtech of the import world?