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VKLR
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Posts posted by VKLR
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I just got a PM from a fellow member and thought i'd post my reply here. So others may benefit from the information.
Plus it's the first time I started to figure what I've spent on the swap so far.
My swap evolved from just a swap to doing it right. I've got about 1,500 miles on it and glad i did the swap.
I could have just done the swap and get it running BUT i decided to do my best on it, my only limitation was my wallet.
When planning I was going to use the stock gauges.Then I thought why try to get 30 plus year old stuff to work with a modern engine. The tachometer would have been the only hard one to get working. So i went with new gauges, no i couldnt settle for nothing but the best. Speedhut it was.
Then i got thinking more, since the gauges would eliminate some wiring and the rest of the wiring in the car was 30 plus years old, why not rewire the whole car? If i rewire the car i might as well run LED lights, up grade the headlights with relays and H-4 housings.
Since the old cross member was going to be out to be modified, might as well do some suspension up-grades. Techno Toy Tunning it was.
You could do it on a budget but i think in the long run it's easier for me to do it once, or try anyway.
Here are some costs
S-14 Kouki SR20DET engine and 5spd trans $2,500
E-Bay inter cooler, pipe, couplers $300.00 there is no "kit" you'll have mix and match.
seals, fluids, clamps, hoses etc $250.00
Drive shaft aluminum $400.00 or you could shorten the stock one $150.00
Mckinney mount kit $450.00 Get the rubber mounts for under 300hp and street use, trust me on this.
Mckinney down pipe $320.00
Mckinney exhaust $550.00
Speed Hut gauges $1,200.00
Wiring,Fuse block, looms etc $400.00
Lighting $350.00
Arizona Z car radiator $350.00
Shroud $100.00
Fan $280.00 bad ass Derale 2 spd
Fan controller $130.00
And there was the suspension, brakes, etc.....
If you would, please ask questions in the thread so that others may benefit from the information.
Willing to help all I can,
Eric
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I think the gold in the engine compartment will look good. You got a black VC,change out the wires and silicone to black also. Too many different colors looks bad IMHO.
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Matt are you going?
I'm checking the weather, planning on going at this point...
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I'm planning on it. Moving the shop this weekend barring anything unexpected i'll be there.
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With it so dang hot here right now it's more enjoyable to work on the car in my air condition garage than drive it.
Getting the AC working again is a project for this coming winter.
I'm very pleased with the swap overall, although there are a few things that still need to be refined.
The SR engine is not really a smooth balanced engine. The straight six engines seem to me to be the best balanced engines. The SR while I do like it better than the L28 has some annoying harmonics. Acceleration the exhaust tone is good, deceleration it is in my opinion horrible. So adding another exhaust hanger and possibly going to add a flex pipe should tone things down in the interior of the car. What i'm going for on this build is as close as I can come to an OEM driving experience. That means everything works when it should AND runs and drives like a factory produced car with no excuses.
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I plan on attending.
First of all I don't know what HPDE is, need to read up on that. Second my little SR20 still needs oiling system upgrades before it thinks about running on a track.
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Matt, Are you planning on going to the NASA event in August?
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I'd like to get some of Will's DNA. Clone a few dozen of him and have a outstanding body shop.
Great workmanship.
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So, I went to an informal car show last Thursday EVENING. I got a few ideas and now I'm headed down a different but well traveled (in a different hobby) path. Pictures and vids coming at some point.
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I've got 1,000 miles since the swap and everything is good. This car now actually gets better gas mileage than any car I've ever owned.
Next up
Z32 MAF
Injectors
New fuel system
Modified Moroso oil pan
Rocker arm stoppers
Greddy remote oil filter and thermostat
Oil cooler
Move air intake in front of radiator
Tune for 12psi
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It sounds really nice also. I had a great time Saturday, thanks for lunch.
With the low spectator turnout I felt like i had the run of the track. Looking forward to the next NASA event.
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"Anyone wanting to get a few laps in the passenger seat, ping me off line and I'll work it out!"
I'm looking to put some miles on my recent SR swap.....I might have to take you up on that offer sometime!
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Oh come on Tony! You should have clearly seen that I was more poking at the prevalent response that a "lifted Z won't work".
I made no reference to a tire size "working" or having been done by Brock. I was merely trying to say that a lifted, rally setup has been done and done effectively.
Well I'm not really taking it that way myself. You seemed to knock my reply.
If the OP did build a car to his original wishes i'll stand by my statement.
I'm speaking from 33 years of working on cars....where are you coming from??
Rally cars have been proven to be a reliable race car.
I don't know of a Z car WITH THE ORIGINAL FRAME running 38" tires. If there is show me one if not please keep your ill informed comments to yourself.
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Pulled the console and wired in a over ride switch for the electric fan. Working on a few theft deterrent switches.
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The damaged parts indicate to me that you are actually putting down some serious power.
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An up to date rally Z car would be cool, maybe something like a Desert runner. Swap in a light power plant and make it as light as possible.
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Without going to a full tube frame you are going to end up with a twisted pile of dung.
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Sounds like a killer build coming up!
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So what thermostat is everyone using? I'm running stock tune, boost and a 180 degree thermostat. When I get a z32 MAF, injectors and a good tune what thermostat would be ideal? For street use.
My cooling system is currently working very well. No problems just looking for the sweet spot on temp.
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Pull both together. I did mine all by myself, out and in. Use the "load leveler" on the hoist.
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Impressive,,, I can't wait to see her in action.
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Just got back from my first extended road trip. One failure...While driving I notice the hood gap at the rear had increased. I knew I shut the hood well. Kept on traveling at 80mph. The further I went the larger the gap became? I finally pulled over, pulled the hood release and tried to close the hood fully. It still wouldnt close all the way. Opened it again and saw the striker had un-screwed. Threaded it back in and tightened, hit the road again...LOL
Actually the car did better than expected. I can see a 6spd trans in the near future.
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Heck i'd go back to dial up if i could drive my car without a bunch of idiots on the road, I can swerve around the occasional slow moving tractor here and there.
Turbo 1970 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Good job keep the passion going.
Do you want to sell me the old snowflake wheels off of your donor car?