VKLR
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Posts posted by VKLR
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I'm almost at the point of starting to put stuff back on, a few more evenings.
On another note.....The engine supplier gave me the wrong ECM. It turn out there are TWO versions of the S14 engine. Mine is the S14a or also know as Kouki. That seems to be a good thing.
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I need a 280z "brake pressure switch".
This is the part below the master cyl, its the brake block with a single wire attached.
Thanks for looking.
I went by Z-Car of Atlanta and got one today. Good people to deal with.
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I just got my S14 engine today. After looking at everything AC looks within reach. The factory mounting bracket is heavy so another bracket might be an improvement. I probably wont get around to fooling with it till early next year.
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Today i picked up a SR20det S14. Overall it looks fairly good. The front crank seal leaks, clutch is down to the rivets, oil pan dented and a little wiring damage. Not really unexpected. I spent a few hours today cleaning and inspecting the engine and transmission. The oil pan looked like it had never been removed. Upon removal it was actually very clean and free of metal. One bummer is my new high dollar down pipe is going to need a little work to get it to fit. While i'm doing the engine swap i'll complete the front suspension rebuild. It also looks like running AC will just need to fabricate another mounting bracket for the compressor.
On order:
Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel
AZC Radiator
AZC Steering knuckles
Current shopping list:
front and rear crank seals
inter cooler and piping
Thermostat
Rocker arm stoppers
Valve cover gasket
Turbo outlet pipe
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So how did the changes to the nose affect your car? Was it more stable?
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Well i finally did it. The engine and trans are out. In a way i feel guilty not rebuilding the L28. I know it ran well for many years and was a true warrior. It ran great, smooth as silk but it was just plain tired. It smoked and leaked.
It only took me three beers to remove the engine and trans. No stripped or seized bolts.
Now a little clean up of the underside and order some parts.
I did get my order in today from McKinney Motor sports.
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"Another thing to do would be to hook up a spare tach in the engine bay with new 3 independant wires to coil -, thru a 2.2k resistor, and +12 and ground and see if it works out there. That would eliminate the car wiring entirely. Might be very instructive."
You have done everything else, this should tell you something.
On another Tach subject. Anyone on here ever try to get the stock 75-78 Tach to work on a Sr20 swap? I'm thinking a MSD DIS Tach adaptor and maybe calibrate the Tach?
Let us know what you find.
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I have the new Techno Toy rods and stock strut rods laying around. If you need me to i'll try to figure out what the stock length looks like.
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Ok so i work on Corvettes for a living. I can cuss Garbage Motors all day long for a slew of things. I really cant say a bad thing about the LS motor. Pushrods or not it's a really well built engine. The only time we go into a engine is to gain more power, not fix a failure.
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Well if you didn't go on vacation you might be driving now... LOL
Hope all goes well and you have a blast.
I havent taking a vacation and it looks like i'm not going to be driving for a while.
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I got a new set waiting to be put on, other things come first though.
As stated above if installed you will need an alignment but i'm assuming there is nothing on the car now. Caster is the angle between the upper and lower pivot points. Most of the time you want even caster side to side. Even caster dosent allways mean both rods are adjusted the same (if you had a perfect car it would). To get it close you can go by wheel base or an even cruder method would be to center the wheel in the wheel wells. Caster is not truly a wear measurement. Toe will chew the tires really quick and camber tends to wear a little slower.
So what to do? Put the suckers on there, center it up with the wheel well and drive it. If it pulls you need to either= A lenghten the rod on the side it pulls to or B shorten the opposite side.
An alignment should be in your near future if they are installed.
Edit- reversed the right-left, i was thinking front mounted rods. LOL
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I got one i pulled out of my early 280z. It fit great in the car. $40.00 and you gotta come get it.
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That's how it always starts
What fun is a dead end street? Gotta start somewhere.
What is going on with your rides?
I'd like to get together again sometime and check out other Z cars.
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Getting a new hood soon. While the hood is off i'll throw in a sr20.
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I'd like to get some measurements from someone that has the conversion done. I'd like to know the distance of the engine/head to firewall about 8" below the throttle pivot bracket.
I also heard of someone locally who swapped the SX subframe and all. That would cure the compressor clearance issue. I have a phone number to contact him.
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LOL I would love to see your grandfather doing a burnout in his truck. Looks really cool.
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Thanks six
OK so what the heck.... I'm going in a totally different direction. A guy is allowed to change his mind isn't he.
Currently going the SR20 route. I do want to keep the Ac in the car. I'm not going to build a monster (not at this point) but keep it simple and close to a stock looking install but with a few minor tweeks here and there.
Checking account currently being drained....stay tuned.
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I know this is a older thread but i never found the solution to running AC with this set-up. I'm planning on doing this conversion very soon on my 75 Z. I did a fair amount of looking through the threads and have not seen anyone running AC on a SR conversion.
Anyone out there running AC on a SR20 swap??
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I'm about ready to pull everything out for a routine rebuild. Runs great just a little tired.
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Thanks for the replies. I'll look into the above recommended shops.
I havent fully decided whether i want just machine work and i'll do the assembly or just let them do the whole thing. If I feel like the guy can do this engine in his sleep i'll go the drop in route.
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I've done a few searches and came up with very little.
I'm looking for "the" machine shop in the SE US for the L28. What I want are the guys who do these on a regular basis. I know people still race these engines locally. Not looking for a race engine but a top quality balanced stock re-build.
Or do the racers in the area go to the West coast?
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So,, where in the heck are we at with the little Z car......
It drives great, slammed but still manages to smooth out the bumps as if it's a portly Cadillac.
Runs good, actually really good.
New wheels, tires, brakes, interior, still could use some paint.
Looks good sitting in the garage.
The problem is the poor motor is tired. A few leaks here and there, smoke on acceleration and deceleration. Smooth as silk but tired.
I was thinking about going the turbo route but i feel this car is in too good of condition to anything other than go back somewhat close to stock and rebuild the original motor.
Currently looking for "THE" machine shop around the Atlanta area that deals with the L-28 on a regular basis....
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This thread will help me this winter on my swap. Thanks.
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The dry ice blasting seems like the cleanest way to blast a car. I did a little searching and found a company in the SE US. Seems mostly big jobs but i did see where they were using it for mold removal on a residential house.If the home owner could afford that route,maybe it could be cost effective for automotive use. I'll try to contact them to get an idea on costs. I also thought it would be a good business to get into.
Joined the club
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Good bonding session with the car tonight. I wish my older camera didn't die.