New 2 z

On pump gas 400 on E85? No one knows, no one has done a stock internal e85 build but I would guess 600hp And the crank can hold 1,000 I believe.

You're not suppose to point the rotor at cylinder #1. Look very closing at which way it's pointing. Only other way I could think it's off is if someone messed with the CAS trigger by messing with the disk.

Okay, what you do is set the engine to TDC where cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke after this you pull the distributor and set it so it's point at the fuel pressure regulator. That should be the correct timing order, unless he missed a tooth or something on timing belt. EDIT: I forgot to mention make sure the cams are also in alignment with the crank.

2011 Nissan 370Z vs. 1990 Nissan 300ZX: Past Meets Present BY Joel Feder, September 22, 2011 Many things have changed in the car industry over the past 21 years, but one thing remains constant: Nissan produces a sports car bearing the letter Z. Known to some as the Fairlady, and others as simply as The Z, there's no question that Nissan has built a cult-like following for this model. It's no secret that we are big fans of the Z here at MotorAuthority. Our fearless editor Nelson Ireson owned a 2003 350Z, and I have a 1990 300ZX 2+2. When a 2011 370Z Roadster landed in my driveway for a week, a comparison between the past and present seemed only natural. Design When it comes to Z design I am a huge fan of the classic lines on the 240Z, but truly love the wide stance of the Z32 300ZX. The curvy 370Z took some getting used to for me, but I've come to like it. In 1990, the Z32 300ZX was one of the most advanced car designs on the market. It was one of the first production cars to be developed with CAD software which led to many innovations ranging from tight panel gaps to four-wheel steering. The car won multiple awards throughout its 6 years in the marketplace. The 300ZX has a low, wide, no nonsense stance accentuated by long horizontal taillights and headlights. In contrast, the 370Z is narrower by approximately 2 inches while wearing its curves like Beyoncé on the red carpet. When analyzing the 300ZX design, you get the sense it was purpose-built with coefficient of drag (Cd) numbers in mind rather than pure style, where as the 370Z feels like a mix of style and function wrapped into a curvy package. Nissan wanted the 370Z to hark back to the 240Z, with a long hood and rearward cabin. The 300ZX differed from this design philosophy with the fluid cabin and jelly-bean like shape. The main similarity in the two designs is the hood proportion. I'd like to think the sculpting on the hood of the 370Z is a nod back to the slight bulge sculpted into the center of the 300ZX hood, but I could just be dreaming. Inside, the two cars couldn't be more different. The inside of the 300ZX feels special and unique, featuring a mix of tweed, vinyl, and plastic. The dashboard flows away from you and all of the controls are driver centric, with the climate controls, lights, and windshield wiper controls all in pods attached to the sides of the gauge cluster. The interior design of the 300ZX doesn't look dated (to my eye) and could easily pass for an interior in a new sports car. The 370Z is a stark contrast to that of the 300ZX, with parts bin switch gear that can be found in anything from a new Nissan Murano to an Infiniti G37. The car's center stack isn't unique, making the interior of the newest Z feel anything but special. I did like the three pod gauges sitting atop the center stack canted towards the driver, a clear nod towards the design of the 240Z. The gauge cluster in the 370Z has a large tachometer front and center with the speedometer pushed to the right. This puts the revs as your main priority when glancing at your gauges--never a bad thing. One of my gripes with the gauge cluster deals with the small LCD trip computer display. This sits between little LEDs which act as the coolant and fuel gauge. While the funky LED gauge set-up in the 370Z is initially cool, it begins to feel almost tacky and impractical in daily usage. The sun makes the little lights hard to see, forcing you to use your hand to provide shade so you can tell how much fuel you have. Performance My 1990 300ZX is a 2+2 model which means it has the naturally aspirated (NA) 3.0-liter VG V-6 engine rated at 220 horsepower and 198 lb-ft, though a 300-horsepower, 283 lb-ft twin-turbo (TT) variant was available on non-2+2 models (coupes) in the U.S. The power is sent to the rear-wheels through a five-speed manual transmission (a four-speed automatic was also available). The 370Z is powered by a 3.7-liter VQ V-6 rated at 333 horsepower and 270 lb-ft. My tester featured the six-speed manual, though a seven-speed automatic with paddle shifters is available. Nissan introduced a new piece of technology on the 370Z manual transmission called SynchroRevMatch. It automatically blips the throttle for downshifts making you look like a rockstar. At first, I felt the feature was cool, but sort of like cheating. After driving around with it for a week, I still feel knowing how to rev match manually is important, but the technology is very unique and makes daily driving easier and smoother for novices. My only gripe about the SynchroRevMatch system is the inability to disable it for good. You can push a button each time you start the car and that will turn it off, but it will default back to on each time you start the car. Since the system is included in the sports package, the only way to get a new Z without it is to buy a 370Z with no options. The EPA rated the 1990 300ZX at 16/22 mpg city/highway while the new 2011 370Z does slightly better at 18/25 mpg. I average approximately 18 mpg in the 300ZX, which is about the same as what I saw while driving the 370Z. When the Z32 300ZX came out in 1990, some called it the Corvette Killer. The naturally-aspirated version was good for a sub-7-second 0-60 mph run, while the TT model did the deed in less than 6 seconds. Today, the 370Z doesn't kill Corvettes, but with a sub-5-second run from 0-60, it isn't terribly far behind. Driving Impressions The 300ZX and 370Z offer vastly different driving experiences from the second you turn the key. Speaking of keys, the 300ZX came with a titanium key, while the 370Z comes with a pedestrian, standard-issue Nissan passive key fob with a Z emblem stuck on. The key to the 300ZX is special. Feeling heavy in your hand, it commands attention and gives you an idea that you are about to drive something more than an ordinary car. The 370Z key is just another electronic fob. Driving down the road you notice immediately how much more noise is transmitted into the cabin of the 370Z. You hear every pebble, and every piece of dirt that hits the wheel wells. Inside the 300ZX all you'll hear is the thrum of the tires against the pavement. No pebbles in the wheel wells. While the handling of the 300ZX is predictable and progressive, it is nothing compared to the laser-sharp steering in the 370Z. Both cars feature hydraulic power steering, but the feedback provided by the 370Z is much better than that of the 300ZX. Steering is slightly heavier in the 300ZX at all times, while the 370Z steering is more progressive in weight as you gain speed. The 370Z's powertrain sounds and feels rougher than that of the 300ZX, especially with the engine on boil. Shifts are shorter and notchier in the 370Z; while the shifts are longer in the 300ZX, they feel smoother. As for which is more satisfying, that will come down to personal preference. One large difference is the brakes: in the 370Z the pedal has a lot of bite early on, where as the 300ZX has a somewhat softer pedal feeling. The brakes in our 300ZX have been upgraded in the front with slotted rotors and ceramic pads, while the 370Z I was testing had the optional sport brake package. Both cars are notorious for not having enough brake cooling which leads to cooked brakes on the track. Bottom line: the brakes are better on the 370Z, but you'll need an upgrade for track days. Conclusion So what does this all add up to? After a week with both cars in my driveway the impressions were clear. First and foremost, the 370Z is a true Z car design wise. It wears its heritage on its sleeve. But it is not the near-exotic the 300ZX was in its day. The 300ZX was Nissan's top-of-the-line sports car here in the U.S. when it was new. As an owner, you were part of a select group. From the titanium key cut at the factory, to the unique switchgear, it was a different experience than owning an Altima or any other Nissan. The latest Z isn't even Nissan's fastest car anymore, let alone the most exclusive. As of the R35 generation, the GT-R is finally sold in the U.S., and the Z has been relegated to entry-level sports car status. Sure, it can compete with a Porsche Boxster or a Cayman, but as an owner, it won't be the same as if you were buying Z in 1990. With parts-bin bits and shared interior elements, the Z is turning into just another Nissan--but it's still a blast to drive, with some serious bang-for-your-buck qualities. I just hope Nissan realizes in the future that owning a Z used to bring with it a special feeling, and brings some of that back in the future.

the 370Z is not an exlusive Z like all the others or the 350z as a matter in fact their just like any other car on the nissan line up. back when the 240Z came out the closet thing to owning a GT-R would be the S30 or the 510 if you were broke. again from 1984 - 1989 the closet thing you could own next to a GT-R was a Z31 and it sold for a pretty goof price, a GLL turbo with full leather interior was about 21 -23k thats ALMOST 60k in today's market! same with the Z32 sold for 60k in the 90's almost 100k+in todays market. it was a lot. but what separates them is the fact that with the rest you feel like you're actually driving a Z car, the 370/350Z does not have this feel. additionally IF YOU KNOW THE Z31 platform jump on it, if you don't, stay away, i strongly advise you to stay away from the Z31 if you don't know much about it. it's a extremely simple car but you need to know it.

250MM flywheel and clutch kit. amazing work.

the one thing that got me motivated to do a stock internal VG30ET was the fact that someone on 3zc.com in a z32 blew their twin turbo motor, they had just happened to have a N/A sitting around and slapped all the turbo things on it. we all know the VG30DE's weakness in the wrist pins from the 10.5:1 compression, but he managed to make 795hp on all stock internals on a VG30DE with turbo parts. it was on E85. so this got me motivated to push limits and find out WHERE the stock limits are. i've never seen a E85 stock internal Vg30ET build well none that im aware of, so i'll be the first i believe, and if she decides to blow up, I'll just upgrade to a VG33 bore to a VG34ET forged rods and pistons, cams, and keep building it. realistically I'll never use ALL 600hp if i EVEN get it that high but if i do at least i can say i'm the only one who did it on stock internals. lol we'll see what happens. motor has a fresh build so it should be alright. new rings bearings, gaskets, so many new things. also i believe you are talking about electromotive in the 80s? they built a 1000hp VG30ET but it was HEAVLY modified i believe the only factory part on it was the crank shaft and they managed to break in clean in half after a few runs, or so i read, no actual information to back any of this up so idk either just what I've read.

well heres my build, hope to run with GT-R's (rolls only) and vettes in the near future. hope to push 400 - 450 on stock internals then i wanna break the A/B series limit and do at least 600hp on E85 with stock internals. intercooler piping, 450CC dsm injectors, and holset HX35

the j30 diff i used (same as Z32 etc) was a 14mm bolt it was from a 94 - 96 model. the ring gear bolt i took from my diff that blew up was 14mm as well and the bolt i have from my customers diff was 12mm I can get pictures along with socket sizes and measurements if you guys would like? also are you guys measuring by the head or by the thread size? additionally; http://az-zbum.com/information.differential.shtml http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html

the ring gear and pinion NEED to be bought in sets or you will grenade your diff. when they leave the factory their already broken in and meshed to each other. the open diff R200s are giant pieces of ****. i finally did mine in on the 1/4 mile when i was running a evo. the pinion that holds the spider gears in place broke in 2 places and my top spider gear got loose and found it's way in-between the case and the open diff and locked up my rear end and then my pass wheel diff gear decided to strip all its gears out while all of this happened. not one piece of it was salvageable, it was a total loss. i saw the same kind of fatigue on a customers diff, it didnt get near what mine did but it was on it's way. the spider pinion was cracked in half. the spider gears were already having issues turning. i have a VLSD and it looks so much stronger then the open diff. I'm only making 230 AT THE MOST! my customer was making 240hp (these are at the wheel figures.) the clutch lsd's for the Z31 are alright but it's a ***** finding a rebuild kit which is why i went VLSD. it ran me 150 at the most. remember when ever you assemble a diff to ALWAYS use diff paste and shim your diff properly for long live and proper drive-ability. use blue lock-tight on the ring gear bolts for extra security and peace of mind. also nismo ZXT you are wrong the 87 turbo DID NOT have 3.54 gears the ring gear bolts are NOT 10MM they are 12 from 84 - 85 and 14 on up

Why would you swap a sr in a car that weighs 3000 pounds? it requires torque to move which the SR DOESN'T HAVE! at least swap in a torque monster like a KA24DE/E whats wrong with the VG30? their great motors. why down grade to a 4 cylinder?

RB's are stupid. just build the VG there have been people who have built them and produced 450hp on the STOCK bottom ends. and with the Z32 rods and pistons I've heard of 550 being easily obtainable. RB's have more cons then pros, if something breaks you'll be waiting a 2 weeks - a month for a part from japan, you need forged pistons to make any decent power over 400hp, and when something breaks it really DOES break. you'll have to rebuild it even before you swap it because you don't know whats been done to it. (parts) VG's are more forgiving motors, they are PLENTIFUL in junkyards, VG's lasted till 2004 so they have a lot of parts laying around. they cam in ALMOST every single nissan built. maxima, quest, pathfinder (old and new), villager, S12, xterra, nissan pick up 4x4, so shortage of parts is pretty slim. you're main limiting factor will be you're 9.1 compression ratio, you're ideal compression ratio would be 7.8:1 or 8.3:1. anyway now would be a good time to open her up and make the tolerances tighter then spec (not too tight need some clearance remember things heat up and expand.) if you want to get real crazy you can get a VG33E and bore it to a VG34ET I've heard of a VG35 but I'm not too sure about that. I think by then the sleeves on the walls would be very thin.

it's the Stock nissan garret T3 turbine section and a upgraded .60 trim Garrett T04E compressor wheel/housing. the engine has seen 15+ psi before so I doubt it's a gasket somewhere. boost controller was a DIY built spring and ball. i max it out ALL the way where the spring is forced onto the ball and nothing.

hello? no one on this site knows what it could be?

GT turbos can't just be rebuilt I believe they are a sealed unit. only the manufacture has the equipment to rebuild. it. contact mike turbo thats all they deal with, you'll have to ship them the turbo but quality work. also find out WHY your oil seal went bad.

my Z wont go past 11psi almost like a safe guard. I removed the pop off valve and capped it so thats not it. I have a internal wastegate with a boost controller. the turbo is upgraded it is not original. when i floor it from a stop it hit 15 psi, sometimes 20psi and then drops to 11 psi. anyone have any ideas?

the 240Z's actually came with 3.36 gears? is this proven? I've read a lot of back and forth jibberish just wanna double check and make sure. look up Ceaser Febus he has done the ford 8 rear end swap. he has a 1,200hp VG30ET i believe not certain.

well I'm looking to go lower, my current gear setup is 3.54 but I would like 3.36 What Nissan vehicles would carry this setup? any common cars like a Q45? or G20T?

Bump anyone AT ALL?!

Hey guys I'm trying to mix and match but I'm having a few issues, I want to use 2jz pistons for the simple fact that they can hold 800hp no issues. these are going to go onto a Z32 rod and then into a VG30ET A/B series engine, the problem is; I cannot for the life of me find the wrist pin size for the 2jz piston. the piston i read is a 86mm so I'm sure i can get some oversized ones made to fit into the VG walls but the wrist pin is whats really stopping me from seeing if this is even remotely possible. I still would need to check deck height with the piston at DTC and find out my new compression and stuff, that'll come later though.

I searched the topic via google and could not come up with much. So my Z is a 85 turbo Z31 (low imp) I have a pair of 440CC injectors from a 2jz Supra, I was wondering could these injectors work? what about choking the engine at idle? half throttle full throttle? I'll also be replacing any rubber hoses and my FPR for a aftermarket FPR while I'm there, that's besides the point though. I could care less about the plugs that is not even worth worrying about. I saw a couple of threads asking the same question but no REAL answer was given.