New 2 z

i finally got this motor running i need to post pics ports are phyiscally bigger then the vg30dett and i have also heard the block was used in imsa racing for 1 year before they changed to alterntive material. blocks are different casting numbers as are heads. cams and valves are the same.

This is all the information i have been able to gather for a VG30DET not a vg30et not a vg30dett. I'm making this thread to help future vg30det people and future swaps this information is mostly shrouded in mystery and information for the single turbo twin cam monster is seriously scarce. There 2 types of vg30dets series 1 and series 2. Series 1s have black intake manifolds and red valve covers, they don't have knock sensors, they dont have recirculation valves, some turbos are journal bearing or ball bearing depending on model. However they are bigger then rb25 turbos and vg30et turbos i will post specs when i have a chance and when I get home. These motors are believed to make 230hp at the crank despite what wiki says however theres no hardcore evidence. Most of these motors came in luxury nissans in Japan ans they are just hard to get ahold of. Series 2; they have a black intake manifold cover with a unpainted upper intake manifold and silver valve covers with knock sensors and they do have recirculation valves. These motors are believed to make 250hp crank again there's no evidence behind this statement they can make 120 crabk hp for all i know though i doubt it. The series 1 and 2 share the same cylinder heads. 45v regardless of year. Upper and lower intake manifold are also the same, the vg30det's use a top side feed fuel rail setup like the 87-89 z31 300zxs na/turbo. Vg30det's also run 270/260cc injectors stock. Impedance has not been confirmed yet i will get to that. (I have a series 1 and 2 vg30det) All vg30dets have bigger intake ports then z32 vg30de/dett from 89-1999, vg30dets have a unknown compression ratio i have speculation that series 1 is 8.3:1 and series 2 is 8.5:1 with makes sense considering the power drop with series 1. Vs series 2. Vg30dett/de vs vg30det the blocks are different vg30 twin turbo and na blocks have a casting of 30p the det is a block casting of F65 whether its stronger or not I'm not sure. I know nissan doesn't change casting numbers unless a change was made like non turbo 30p heads vs twin turbo 40p heads vs 48p tt heads vs 45V det heads. Vg30det have a side mounted starter just like the z31s. I will get more information and pictures as it comes

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271218787878?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 This is what I bought, and I bought it because it had a flat face with no ridges, but it came out to be 250mm ridged flywheel which pissed me off.

Whoever posted the information about the crank lip is WRONG. I went out and measured again, watch the video, I know it's low quality like all the others but bare with it. I even tested and made sure 100% it was on properly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQFB_qmUDbE

I would like to see side by side photos for comparasion. I have a hard time believing this as i see their the same bore and cylinder spacing looks the same as well as the same number of mains.

I checked this out yesterday the lip that you are talking about its OVER the lip of the RB crank. I had red paint to confirm this and make sure it was sitting flush with the mating flange. need to upload that video when i have a chance, im sure the RB crank is 79 or at most 80mm (the lip where the rear main slides on) .

I will go and pull it apart again, I do remember the bolt holes sitting flush when I bolted it on but I will go and double check!!! Thank you for bringing this up! I'm not sure if the RB's have the crank seal ring to mount I know the VG30E's dont but they have a hub ring to mount on, maybe it was the other way around, been so long since I've done a clutch on a VG30.

This is my video for my L to RB flywheel fitment. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BjwsLjDek0

I destroyed a 1 year rebuild old t-5 had BRAND new counter shaft, (hard to find new?) input, out put, bulk rings, snycro's the whole thing was rebuild about a year ago. So I was shifting from 1st to second (not hard) I go into second and it goes into 4th gear and completely RIPS 4th gear counter and input gear apart! no gears except 4th (since 4th is direct drive). I broke another T-5 not so long ago but I thing that was because of low oil. And another on my last Z31, going into 3rd lost all gears except 2nd, and 5th. Drove home like that and while pulling into the drive way the t-5 jumped into 3rd and locked my gear box. I moved onto a 71C from, you should too, N/A Z31's come with the, RB20's SR's, KA's and CA18DEt's come with them too. What had happened what the hub springs on the 4th gear collapsed and it was able to slip into gear.

I received my starter today and it cranks the motor over fine, don't know whats all this mish mash of 6mm out, MAYBE 1.1mm but the flywheel and starter are NOT a high precision part like a crank and bearings or cam and cam cap placement. The only reason one exist is to start the car that is all. I need to pull it all apart as i have a sleight rubbing on my transmission flywheel dust cover but that will be sorted and fixed. I have a RB20, L28 flywheel, L28 clutch kit and a RB20 starter. I need to measure the bosses on the flywheel and RB20 I will do that later this week, my hand was badly injured after slipping off a ratchet and hitting a rb20 cam sensor open plug NOT A FUN EXPERIENCE! (I was turning the crank to make sure no rubbing went on).

I will go out later today and measure mine and I'll post up the info. If it works for a RB20 it will work for a 25/26/30/24/ whatever RB you want. I'll measure the small boss and then the large boss as well. My L28 flywheel has a large circle ring on it to sit on the crank and a small hole for the pilot bushing, but it works nicely like this.

I recently fit a L28 flywheel on my RB20 because I could not for the life of me find a RB20/25 flywheel and the KA24 flywheel was not an option since it was only 225mm. I went with a 2+2 reman'd S130 flywheel with the 240mm face. (Mines came with a 250mm face lucky i guess?), it looks the same. I do not see WHY the crank would be longer. I would imagine it's the same seeing as the L series is the father of the RB (and S20 is the father of the L, nissan has a long history with inline 6's). We will see once my starter arrives tomorrow. Cylinder heads exchange (nothing lines up oil/water wise), and I'd be willing to put money down the cranks can swap over too, they even have the same number of mains.

@Brain: The ones going for $500 WILL not fit the sump is too large to clear the steering rack, it has to be off a 200ZR or one off, otherwise it WILL not fit. I know what pan your talking about, Raw Brokerage sells it I believe. @blu: Thank you I will contact him.

I am looking for rear sump oil pan from a 200ZR or maybe from a RB30 QR truck? I'm not willing to spend $800 on something to hold oil that is outrageous for that I could cut and weld my own oil pan to work.

I have a N47 head needs a little bit of attention, let me know.

I am currently doing a Q45 VLSD internals in my diff. right now im missing Q45 axles. I know a machine shop who machines axles for race cars and lots of stuff. so I'll end up taking my axles to them to cut and re-spline for the Z31 wheel stub. I tried using my J30 VLSD axle stub in the Q45 and it's too small no avail. also the j30 and Q45 axle stubs. the Q45 is slightly taller.

I read through the whole thread! wow amazing work guys. I dont have a L28 yet, I am a VG owner, and as a VG30 owner we have quite a bit different water pumps that can change flow how much flow etc etc. I did some research on the L28 pumps and found some interesting stuff. Thats all i could really get but for the VG there is like 4 or 5 different pumps. none are performance related but im sure different flow characteristics and of the such.

I have a N47 head if you need it.

a P99??? what did this even come in? nissan maxima? (no diesel?)

So, I've googles this and not much has come up, only this one topic. http://forums.hybrid...l-series-l26et/ and it makes sense, it's been almost 8 years since that topic was made and im sure someone has to have done this in that time span? what would spool time be? detonation? power potential? I really don't know too much about the L series but i'm researching and learning something new everyday.

That does not mean you CANT run a blow through. join Z31 performance theres a few people running a blow through without a single issue. as a matter of fact my Z runs better with a blow through then a draw through. i know thats not the factory setup but the factory setup didn't have a intercooler either.

I am sorry i HAVE to chime in. I am running a blow through maf along with a few other Z31 people. some making 200-450hp with that same blow through setup. so if he is running a Z31 afm i doubt that is the issue. just dont have it close to a bend as lots of turbulence builds at the 90 degree couplings and such.

You are very right. the RB is a very good motor, you are very correct about the transmissions too. but how many L30ET's @500hp in Z31's have you seen? lol sure its not as efficient as a RB or VG. yes the Z31 was originally built with a RB design in mind but I just love the old L series as there just is not much to go wrong. I was thinking of a rebello forged bottom end. either way i go I'm going to spend money to get there. I should do it in a way no one has done before.

kind of bring this back from the thread but after reading many many engine swaps. i love the L for it's reliability I've been reading up and down google search engines and i cannot find one thread where a L has spun a rod bearing (engines fault). or dropped a valve/ something along those lines. the VG's spin bearings this along scares me. and rhw newer DETT's while being a better motor parts are retardly expensive. and i dont feel like buying two of everything. I've seen a L30et make 650hp on e85 and 609hp on pump. and realistically 770hp would be insane to daily drive. looking to make more along the lines of 500hp with the L28ET. i don't see why it would not be reliable daily driving it (off boost.) however I am somewhat new to the L series so i can be way off base too.

I have a Z31 and I'm thinking of going to a L31 in the far future. i strongly believe the L31 has a ton of potential that hasn't quite been tapped the way it should have as the years past. to a lot of people this may seem like a "down grade the VG30 is proven to make power" it's true but the sad fact is it's a V6 and while the VG30 is built tough as nails it's not up to what i want. it's a very rough motor for the simple that that it was built as a V engine, it wants to tear it's self apart. (easier to go up and pull down and push up then on a vertical). I'd like a 650 - 770RWHP L31ET I was thinking of doing a compound turbo setup (like marcs 2jz Z31 setup) to get these numbers and head work of course (i know someone who does GODLY head work the head won't be a issue). money is not going to be a issue for this build. i need these numbers to be reliable numbers. (obviously NOT on stock internals.) I do need some direction as to where to start? is 9.1 a good compression for the old folk L motor. I heard someone tell me i should go 7.4:1 with godly amount of boost but again i need direction as to what the old design can take, not every motor is the same and some motors like to detonate with high compression and boost. keep in mind this will be a project for the future but it will happen though.