spitsnaugle
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Posts posted by spitsnaugle
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On different, but similar note, I'd like to see photos of FS items required. I'm a moderator of calibersrt4.net and we require photos with a piece of paper showing the users screen name and date, not saying that this forum needs to go that strick about requiring the name and all, as its made it a bit more work to moderate, but it has kept our FS section pretty solid. (we had a few members using others photos which created some issues)
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FAIL for towing a trailer that is almost MAX capacity for the caravan....... (I'm pretty sure it's rated around 2.5k)!!
^caravan? its a station-wagon. even worse.
I passed this on i75 between dayton and cincinnati one day a month or two ago, made me cringe a bit.
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Any update on this? Would be very nice to have this...
Quite sure Dave: (username: HLS30-08077) does these.
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There is already such a product. I don't know who makes them, but I think you can find them on ebay.
Karmotion did i think?
Bartman has one:
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...pics like the thread requests?
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-Spitsnaugle
Where is the eccessary relay located and what does it look like? i can look into that here in a little while
Miles circled it in red above.
Heres a couple reference pictures I took when taking apart my harness
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Sounds like your going through nearly the exact same thing as me.
My ground wire was fried from the start of the harness to the gauges, I replaced it and it wouldnt start, then I realized I didnt have the accessory relay attached to the body (it grounds itself?) when I went to restart it, it did nothing. I attached it and cleaned the ground between firewall and the battery. and it started right up.
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From those pictures you posted, your dash harness does not look like it's in need of replacement, all of the insulation looks intact.
Those yellow wires look like they're for sending units (oil press., water temp [i think temp is only one wire it's like white/yellow or something] and fuel level), and the blue wires are for lighting of one sort or another (headlamps, dash/gauge lights) and the greens are for indicators and controls (HVS, turn signal indicators, etc.) at least that was the color scheme on my 1/1971 Z, if I recall correctly.
It appears the yellow/red wires are power to the gauges, solid yellow and yellow/white seems to be from the sending units.
Green for the most part runs indicators and hazard switch, but solid green is at the fuse box and at the tach, it also appears to run to the hazard switch,
Here is the wiring diagram I've been using, I've been coloring it bit by bit trying to make it a bit easier to follow. I wish I had it in better quality.
(should note WR white/red striped color is switched because white on white is hard to see)
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update:
Installed ammeter and replaced negative terminal, re-ran the wire that grounds battery to the firewall.
...and it started right up.
Headlights and turn signals aren't working yet, parking lights and tail lights are working though.
Its getting there... slowly.
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If you would please let me know.
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It has no gauges in it at all?
If the information I have read in other subforums here on HybridZ is correct, the Ammeter is kind of a central power distribution point in the harness. It is also kind of illustrated that way in the FSM, they call them "leads" but if you look at what goes from the voltage regulator to the dash harness, it looks more like a primary source than a lead. The White/Red wires are your positive power leads and the all White wires are your negative leads, they should be larger than the other wires (they're like 10 or 8 gauge I believe).
Thanks for the heads up, I'll put the ammeter in next time I try.
I also realized I wasnt grounding the accessory relay, it was laying on the bare floor, but I doubt it was well grounded.
I accidentally laid the red/white wires on the bare metal floor for a brief second, it didnt spark/short or anything, has me thinking that the battery isnt grounded well to the body. IDK.
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Holy crap. Well, one easy fix is that last picture... that is the piece that connects the horn button to the horn relay wiring... it mounts on the left side of the turn signal switch, facing in toward the driver, and the little round contact point is spring loaded toward the steering coupler, so that it can maintain a contact and allow a connection to the horn. Make sense?
For the other stuff... I would advise replacing a lot of your wiring. Also, I would recommend studying the Factory Service Manual Wiring section, including the dash wiring, and especially the whole wiring diagram for the car. Once you know it by heart and can identify what every wire does, only then should you really start hacking away at the harness. There is a lot of stuff previous owners have done that is not in the FSM, and you are going to have a hell of a time figuring it out. Also, it sounds like you probably have some corroded connectors somewhere, if you are only getting .2V off the key. I would start at the ignition switch, and work my way from there, cleaning all connectors, using some dielectric grease to ensure a good contact, and checking them, one by one... until you die of old age.
Seriously though, this is a huge project to tackle without having a good knowledge base of what is going on with everything, being able to identify every wire, etc.
Makes sense. the previous owner had ran a single white wire from the horn to the under side of the dash, it never connected to anything though. :/
I've been studying a couple wiring diagrams that are titled "early 240z" its got me what I thought was a decent understanding. (I am starting to see I'm a bit far from having that understanding actually)
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My dash is out and I'm trying to get the car started to get it from my friends place to my home. No gauges or anything are installed, just the harness and relays.
I'll try to be as thorough as possible in explaining the situation:
Issue: Car has 13v power at fuse box and at key, if I turn key to on, or turn lights on, power drops to .2v ...Lights do not work, no starter clicking, no flashers or anything. It all used to work though.
Backstory:
It has a MSA fusebox installed by P/O. Unsure if installation is correct. two white/red wires are coming in and connecting to right side screw post. Two single (white and blue?) wires are connected from one side to the other on the fuse box.
It had a old cheap alarm installed. I removed this alarm, and re-connected the black/yellow wire that was spliced for it.
Its main ground wire had melted. I replaced the entire wire from end to end, following its connections.
The ignition/key has two black single wires coming off of it, are these for ground? I am unsure.
I am unsure if this is OEM or not, but these Yellow, Yellow/Red, Red/Blue, and Green, wires seem to run together, is this correct? I believe the yellow wires have something to do with the gauges?
Also, I have a few unknown issues that may be related or not:
I have this copper&plastic piece coming from the turn signal switch:
Thanks for your time.
If all else fails I'll be posting a Wanted thread for a 71 dash harness soon :/
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I have the glass (and guts from gauges) if you don't get from other source.
could you post a pic or so? I've just received a gauge from a member but it doesnt match mine, which looks like the one below:
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Got a couple, will send pix later.
keep me posted, I have my dash out right now, hoping to get it back in within two weeks so I got a bit of time.
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Looking to buy a amp/fuel or an oil/temp gauge for its front cover because my 71 240z has a nasty scratch in the front glass(plastic).
The gauge can either be functioning or non-functional, I just want the glass/plastic in good shape.
provide pics if possible please?
Thanks!
-Joel Spitsnaugle
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I'll see if I can cook a design up over my lunch break today.
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Does nobody know anything about this?
Also looking for a 71 dash wiring diagram. ...Previous owner really f'd my wiring up. I have a couple diagrams labeled "early 240z" but I'm not sure how accurate it is to my 71.
I've been told this should be fairly accurate (from the classicz site)
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Just like the title says, i installed a stereo in my 73 240 and now there are no turn signals or gauges working. I had a stereo in the car before and just used the existing wiring. any advice would be appreciated, thank you.
I'm just going out on a limb here, but have you checked your fuses?
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If you hate molded kits; Datsun Spirit is your answer. Our 78 has a kit from Eiji and it fit great.
Could you take some photos?
Roughly how much was it? I dont see much of anything on his site.
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I too, am wondering about these carpet kits as I have a stripped interior right now (redoing undercoating and paint).
//subscribed//
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Time for the annual update?
At some point in the not too terribly distant future, we might have forum members who weren't even born when the site first hit the cyber airwaves!
Off topic but,
I see your from SW ohio, anywhere in particular? I'm from the Dayton (centerville) area and have been looking for some locals to meet up with this summer.
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Do not use that type of a solid differential mount, your just asking for trouble. I would recommend buying the R/T style mount. (Roostmonkey sells them at a VERY reasonable price and is a fantastic seller.) If you do use it I would recommend really beefing up the front cross-member. Solid mounts are know to rip the metal apart.
Your welcome if you don't use it and tear your car up. Save yourself the trouble, I promise you will be more happy with the R/T mount. I will take pictures of my setup if you would like.After researching it a bit I think I'm going to go with the R/T mount setup. Probably within a month or two here.
Your welcome if you don't use it and tear your car up. Save yourself the trouble, I promise you will be more happy with the R/T mount. I will take pictures of my setup if you would like.
Post pics of your z's here!!
in Non Tech Board
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Dont think mine is of the same caliber to be posted with most here, but heres a few from the last time I had it at the track.