1993_570ZX

Well I finally got around to mounting the engine in with those mounts I got, and made a custom crossmember. Had some help from my buddy Danny who's pretty handy with a welder. So I brought it up to his shop to finish that and some other welding details. Heres some pics. Got my shifter linkage hooked up to the stock shifter as well. Ill get a pic of that next time the car is up in the air. Also got my driveshaft done from a local place that does em, they ordered a special rear yolk that bolts and centers on the Nissan rear end, and uses a GM standard U-joint. Header on the right side is from the firebird, im still playing with the drivers one to get it to fit between the oil filter and steering rack.

yeah those are them, more then enough metal there so ill have to chop some off and will work out perfect for mounts. ill take some pics of the mounts after I set the engine. gonna be a few weeks, work finally called so im off and about, car gets to sit.

I ordered up some motor mounts from summit. Trans-dapt 4500. looks nice, its a mount that bolts to the block and has a bar that gets welded to frame. so looks like it will work out nice for some mounts. Also chopped up the oil pan to make some clearance for the steering rack. Just waiting on the mounts now. Gonna go clean up my interior some and finish the alternator wiring and starter wires while im waiting.

These are cast aluminum valve covers from some guy on ebay. one of those cheap no name setups that sometimes has decent parts. I love the valve covers, very nice, clean, already notched for the alternator and also clear 1.6 rockers. comes with baffles you need to install, and hardware that fits the countersink to make a very clean installed look. Here is the same auction i bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Chevy-LT1-Polished-Aluminum-Valve-Covers-5-7L-Camaro-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c58be8d59QQitemZ190467444057QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories my only problem was packaging, the underside had rubbed though the inner box and had almost damaged one of the valve covers. no harm on mine tho. also had to grind like a small protruding bolt on the backside of the alternator off to make it not rub. this was like 1/8 inch. it fit without the grind off, but i didnt want vibration to rub out and damage either part.

Last time I had a nasty coolant, like... Ive flushed it 3 times and after a week it comes back brown from rust. I went and poured a quart of CLR with distilled water into empty cooling system. Drove it like that for 3 days. Then ran it with a hose in one end. Then flushed 2 times with distilled water, running the engine each time to get flow. Making sure to clear out any remaining CLR and no crap water. Refilled with 50/50 mix distilled and coolant, and been beautiful ever since. I got some nasty crap out with the CLR. works great.

Well, the other day I chopped up the oil pan, giving myself some more clearance. Its getting welded up by a friend's shop. next will be mounts. Im gonna buy some jeep mounts (autozone part #2330) install those, then make plates to bolt those to and bolt the plate to the engine. Ill replace the cheapy autozone mounts with Prothane Motion Control mounts (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-1-501/Application/?prefilter=0). This should hopefully center the engine perfectly making 2 of the same plate. or at least damn close to perfect center. For the wiring I went out to the junkyard and picked up connector ends from some F-bodys to make some harnesses outta and label all the pins knowing where they go. Making for a clean plug in harness to adapt into the Nissan. Got all the wires figured out and even scored some mini ATC fuse boxes by cutting them outta some buick regal to use them for the powers on the harness (coil, injectors, ecm). Hopefully comes together this weekend. Last thing im hoping works in my favor is, from my doner car the 93 Formula, it had Edlebrock shorty headers, in good shape, and by looking at the fitment, i might only have to change the exit on the drivers side and they should work perfect. Then can get exhaust made up to goto some Z catback. Ill throw some pics on here later tonight of my Z

Yeah, im gonna just hook it up. Ill prolly still end up getting that Dakota Digital for the speedo, cause of gear change and tire size. For my Tach tho, i found a guy who just hooked it straight up and trimmed it out perfectly with a potentiometer that was already on the circuit board of the tach itself. save myself $75 there. Ive got a nice Mac meter with a tach hookup, and a nice timing light with tach display, so ill just bring the two together and should be good to go.

Ive had good luck with 90s+ GMs. lots in the junkyard and are not known for connector problems. The wires at the connectors are usually always still pliable. But if yer making an entire harness from scratch, id get new.

Ok heres my next question for my swap, hoping to find my answer, ive been up and down the internet for about 4 or so hours looking for this info. 1993 LT1(700R4) into a 1993 Z32(auto) I know that my 700R4 has a 4 pulse VSS, that signal goes to the ECU, gets buffered and has an output that went to the F-body gauge cluster. Im trying to find out if the Nissan sensor is a 4 pulse. (I think it is), but the way the Nissan is wired, that the sensor goes to the gauge cluster which then "refines" analog to digital... then sends it to the ECU. Im wondering if, Nissan sensor is 4 pulse... and if I can just take the already digital signal from the GM ECU straight to the Nissan gauge cluster. (and then no need to go anywhere after that) From my 4 hours of research, id say.... 80% yes... but i want to know before i fry something.

Thanks Dan for the info on the Tach and Speedo, these were the big electrical issues i had left in adapting the LT1 into the Z32. From what ive figured out, the LT1 PCM has the output for the speedo gage for the camaro/firebird. I had glanced over someone else talking about being able to change what that output is from the PCM so its a useable signal to the Nissan. Im just wondering, need to call a computer guy if this is even possible. Ill definatly look into the Dakota digital thing. Ive got access to a Nissan FSM, so ill be getting values and other info I need from that in a day or two. Right now im stuck at the mounting of the engine. I think ive gotta take it back out, beat some of the tunnel for sides of the tranny, and either replace oil pan, or modify stock pan. Canton makes one that should work 15-244T (road race 1 piece rear main seal with oil level plug) but its also $300. Not sure how you got yers in the first time without the big tunnel. Im using the 93 Tranny which is a 700R4. (not that big as far as tranny size) Ive got most of the adapting wiring figured out, need to get back under the passenger firewall inside and start labeling and putting em together. coolant temp, oil pressure, check engine light.

yeah, both right and left. The idea is so I can put the intake to the stock Z32 intake pipes on the sides going around to the front. I came up with a good idea to fab one up, but if there is one already available for not too much, id rather go with that.

Anyone know if someone makes an inlet for the LT1 that instead of elbowing to one side, it splits both ways? would make for a very nice intake for my Z32, using the stock pipes around the front into the area between the headlights.

well today was a slow day for me, i worked on fixing wiring from my firebird harness and doing a little research on sensor plugs etc. Ive got the drivers side of the engine wiring harness looking good with a clean loomed install of a MSD 6A. Ill do a few wire splices for power and some instruments and get the fuel pump control into the GM computer and away from the Nissan's 6 computers. speaking of which, do you have any info on being able to make the Nissan Tach work off the GM signal or MSD signal? also on speedo signal? if i can get a working signal, i can change the gear to "calibrate" and my buddy has a nissan calibrator for the speedo to smooth out the rest.... IF i get a usable signal for it. Ill get back under the car and see about the bolting back up of the crossmember. By looking at yer pic, did you just use an aftermarket or custom bracket and just run alternator? Im trying to get all the F-body accessories hooked up, (which means my alternator is like 2 inches higher then intake) which is prolly why im running into this issue about motor position... Ill play with it some tomorrow when i get tired of staring at wiring diagrams.

I was going over your pictures again, and ive got my engine farther back then yours, but also a little lower. you have any good oil pan shots with the crossmember bolted up?

I read all that, by cutting out your tunnel did you not have to change your oil pan?(got it farther back?) Im trying to avoid the cut chop rebuild of the tunnel. Its in there nicely right now (crossmember is hanging) but im sure ill have to get an aftermarket oil pan to get it to bolt back up without modification.

will end back covers swap out without problem? so i can keep the finned cover without changing anything else? anyone know?

I had found the reverse swap info when i first started looking, looks like ill go source me a 97+ Q45 diff.

Hey guys, im swapping an LT1 into a 1993 Z32 2+2. From my research about the car, It has a R200V with a 4.09 gear, 5 bolt flanges. I dont care for the 4.09 ratio and would like to bring it lower. would like to be able to drive on the highway I know I can take the entire setup from a Twin Turbo, and swap to a R230, but still have a 3.70 gear. (Better but still high for my taste) I looked around and seems that Q45s have a short R200V as well. Here's my questions about the Q45 rear ends and what would work. What ratio was in these? Ive found that the 89-96 is a 3.545 ratio 6 bolt flange. also found that the 97-01 were a 3.69 ratio and 5 bolt flange. what ratio was in the newer ones? (trying to clear up some possible misinformation, found it both ways in posts)(hoping its 3.54 and 5 bolt to direct swap) to be able to straight swap this into my Z32 NA, can i just use a 5 bolt rear and just swap pumpkin, using my shafts? if the newer q45 rear has a 3.69 ratio, and i still want the 3.54, can i use the 6 bolt rear end and swap my axles to TT axles(6 bolt)

Hey guys, new guy here, been trolling for a bit trying to soak up some info for all my project works and whatnot. Ive got myself a 1993 2+2 300ZX, and a complete automatic drivetrain from a 1993 Firebird Formula. So far ive fixed and simplified the LT1 as much as possible, and have already stuffed the thing into the engine bay. I wanted to get some info on motor mounts used in fabbing? Im looking at like CJ7 mounts, or generic sbc mounts with a plate some kinda Z32 looking mount like the F150 mount with a plate.... looking to see what some other guys used here. Also I was trying to get the engine far back enough into the tunnel. I feel that I almost need to change the oil pan. Was looking at Canton pans and whatnot being they are more straight cut then the sloping stock LT1 pan. I haven't seen anyone talking about changing oil pans on the LT1 swaps, so im assuming that it will work, but what am I missing? I think I can get the engine back maybe another inch before i'm wedged between the firewall and the front crossmember. Seems that the engine is still sitting too high, but it is resting partially on the oil pan to steering rack. Also, looks like the yolk on the stock driveshaft is just about perfect location for the tranny if i come back about an inch. (700R4) anyone just put the GM yolk onto the Nissan driveshaft and work ok? or would it be better to eliminate the entire Nissan driveshaft and just add the back bolting gimmic for the pumpkin. (I have the stock Firebird driveshaft to modify) past these few details... like shifter cable... I should have no problems adapting all the other systems once the engine is mounted in.