StealthZ

Wow, NICE clean (and straight) 240, and also very nice intall. You have to be happy with that! I know what you mean about the rest of the wk... once the eng is in, there are a hundred other things to finish up.

"I would think that the range of each sensor would be linear" Yep, felt the same way. That's why I'm not too worried about it. Hey, on the eng mount issue, I am using the ones from a S12 V6 . They are near indentical to the one's that came with my motor. I believe they are the silicone filled style, so I bought new from Nissan because I know over time the rubber cracks and lets the goo out. Think they were about $80 ea even with my Z-Club discount from Courtesy Nissan. On the oil pressure front, I am using the sensor from my old eng, and I have very good oil pressure with the new motor. Sensor looks to be in good shape, but can't remember if it is factory or aftermarket. Running 10W-30 (conventional oil), on a 70 deg day, with a cold eng, I show about 2/3 guage, coming back down to 1/4 guage at idle when warm. I recently put in 20W-50 Valvoline Racing (conventional) oil in the car and now I have CRAZY oil pressure. With a little cooler air temp (50 deg), a cold eng at idle almost PEGS the guage. It will read 2 needle width's past the upper mark (so past 90 psi). I have been letting it idle until the temp comes up, but the pressure stays probably mid guage at idle when warm, and will still edge up twards the 90 psi range when rev'ed. I plan to switch to synthetic this summer, but I wanted to run some conventional oil through it for a couple of changes to 'get the gunk out' since it was a used eng and sat for a bit. You might want to try out an aftermarket one as Careless says, I have had 2 Nissan guages go out on me (in the 160K I have run the car, so I guess not too bad...). But both times, it would read low pressure. Oh, if you get bored, I fiinally posted some pic's of the car on the "Lets see your RB Z..." thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97930&page=8

Bought the engine in '00, but finally got it done last month , just in time for the '08 Z-Convention. Sooo nice to get it back on the road. I've owned the car for almost 20 years, and put over 160k on it (the last 100k with the stock L series turbocharged). Right now it's a totally stock RB25DET except for the (real) Greddy intake, 4" thick chinabay intercooler, and bit of powdercoating and polishing. Ck out how clean the cams and the head are. This is a stock USED engine. I really lucked out on this one. A little more boost, and then it's time to start on the body. Don't know if I will have the time or $$ to finish the RB30DET by next summer, but I'm going to give it a try.

Sorry for the delay, but finally got the pic's downloaded - couldn't find my damn interface cable. I have a pretty decent Fluke multimeter, so I took some temp and resistance readings at ambient, and then heated them up what would be approx operating temp,. The first pic is at ambient temp 78.7 deg F. Second pic is the KA sensor, which was around 381 ohms. Third pic is the L28 which was 407 ohms, so a little split, but not bad. Except for working out the linearity, really not to concerned about the 'cold' readings being a little off. Fourth pic is the RB sensor, at about 0.9597K, so it was waay out there. Then we heated things up a bit. Fifth pic - Got a pot of water going on the stove, and let it stabilize for about 10 min at about 195 deg F. I wanted to get a reading on the hot side of operating temp, because that is where I want the most accuracy. Sixth pic - Keeping the probes out of the water, the KA sensor was pretty consistent around 30 ohms +- 1.5 ohms. Didn't have enough hands to hold the probes and take a pic, but the L28 sensor was about 31 +- 1.5 ohms. So I would say that it's close enough for me. I would eventually like to run it from ambient to around 240 deg, and record every 5 or 10 deg, just to see what the whole range would be, but that's for another time - too many other things I need to get done on the car. Had the car out at the 1/4 mile drag strip last week, and again, temp was dead stable, and never moved off of it's spot just below half scale. (FWIW I ran 13.4 at 105.8 with crappy tires and guessing when to shift - no working tach yet... at only 7 lbs of boost. Put the hurt on a supercharged Cobra mustang ).

Just got my RB25 in and running a couple of weeks ago. Ran into the same thing with the temp sensor, but wanted a more elegant solution than adding an aftermarket temp gauge or inline sensor. I usually have multiple projects going on at once, and for the first time it worked to to be a benefit. Knowing that Nissan crosses over many parts, I scoured the garage for a similar sensor. By pure luck, it didn't take long - I had a '91 240SX KA24DE on an eng stand, and sure enough the sensor matched size and style. Taking a multi-meter to it, it had the same resistance at ambient temp and the orig Z sensor. Lacking time, I went ahead and tried it out. Just as I hoped, it read just left of center on the stock Z gauge with the eng at operating temp. It even ran midway right of center one time when I forgot to hook up the electric radiator fan. The toyota one from Chris R's install article (LOTS of good info there) was too small in diameter and wrong thread pitch. Hope this helps. In the pic below starting from the left: Stock '77 280Z, '91 KA24DE, stock RB25DET, Toyota one

Ygm

Wow, I'm gone for a week, and what started out as a post with the very good news that RB30 blk's are being brought into the states, has morphed into me staring at Thagard's house (again), and Toyota motors. Anyway, as I don't have the time or feel the inclination to justify my decision to use a particular blk for MY application, and as this thread has obvoiusly become emotionally charged... AKWIKZ (if you are still watching this thread), I will contact you privately regarding the engines.

Brian, good to see you were able to work out getting them into the states! I looked into this a couple of years ago, and know what a pain the *ss the shipping is. Anyway, I am definetly interested, and was wondering if you happened to know if these are going to be gen1 or gen 2 blk's? And turbo, or non? Thnx.

That's a damn shame the turbo comes so close to the steering shaft, the manifold sure looks good otherwise. I'll have to e-mail a friend of mine in Japan and see what the difference is in HP with the HKS piece vs stock manifold. He does a lot with the RB25 and the 26.

Nice documentation so far! Did you ever get a chance to see how the HKS manifold positioned the turbo in relation to the factory one? I've also been looking at the HKS piece, but didn't know how well it would fit in our engine bays.