ziptieracer

Please send me a copy. jnklabine@cox.net thanx man.

that's what i was thinking. it's got pretty good wrap around the pulley though. i'm sure that's one of the reasons why all their real world data is at 8lbs or less. anything much more than that and you'd get belt slip like crazy. they say the charger is CAPABLE of 18psi and 1000hp, they never said you could do it on that belt setup.... im sure you'd have figure out some sort of cog belt setup if you wanted over 10 lbs.

Well, I finally got the first stage of my project done, which was getting the garage all setup and tearing apart and cutting up my old project to fund this one. Old project is finally cut up and some of the parts have sold, so I'm finally starting to get some funds for the Z project. I purchased a '70 240Z about a month ago for $600. It hasn't ran in 10 years and it has a bit of rust, but it still looked better than everything else I looked at for under a grand. It also has a 5spd tranny in it, and it came with a bunch of extra parts, including and extra 4spd tranny and an extra r180 diff. I figure after I sell all the extra parts I'm not gonna need, I should be pretty close to even on the purchase of the car. On to the pics. Its got a fairly decent scrape on the driver's fender and door. The driver's side rocker(passenger side is about half as bad) Bottom of one of the fenders And now it's finally in the garage ready to get worked on. So the next stage I have planned is to start stripping her down and see just how bad the rust is. The rockers are pretty scary looking, everything else I've seen so far doesn't look that bad. As long as there isn't too much rust that compromises structural intregrity, I'm gonna keep it. Anything structural gets fixed before the swap, anything cosmetic or surface rust will be treated to keep it from spreading and the damage can be fixed at a later date after the swap is done. I don't want to end up with a flawless beatiful looking Z-shell that sits in my garage for years on end. im on a limited budget and getting it running under it's own LS-1 power is priority number 1. I'll post some more pics after I get it more stripped down and can take some better pics of how bad the rust spots are.

if you end up going with drag radials, try the mickey thompson's. me and my buddies all used to run bfg's. my one friend with a supercharged goat switched over to the m/t radials and dropped 2 tenths off his sixties consistent. he said they made the bfg's feel like regular street tires. he's cutting 1.6's iirc with m/t radials the same size as your sumis. car is stock weight, no suspension mods. just a high stall converter and the m/t's. food for thought.

not sure which part of my post you were replying to. im going to go ahead and assume that you're giving an example of a z that runs 6's in the 1/8th and that you're not trying to say that z in the link runs 6's in the quarter.

i would assume that he's talking about 1/8th mile times......there's no way 450whp would put a 2,500lb car into the 6's in the quarter mile. it's not physically possible. 6's in the quarter and it wouldn't even be a z anymore. it would be a tube-frame dragster chassis with a 'glass shell that resembles a z.

maybe there's 2 rb swapped dimes in bakersfield....

Please take pics if you ever find this mystery car. That would be something to see.

What kinda car is that? Looks like an old Audi inline 5. Old sport quattro? More pics please if its a sport quattro, those things are HOT. And that's a rather large turbo. That thing looks like it could exceed the damage threshholds for VW/Audi drivetrains and still have an extra 10-15 PSI left over.

I signed it. I haven't had access to Speedvision in about 4 or 5 years because the cable I was stuck with didn't have it. Moved into a new place a few months back and now I have Speed again. I couldn't believe how much it sucks now. Seems like every time I flip on Speed after work, that worthless show Pinks is on, or some other garbage. What the hell happened to the racing?

yikes. that's alot harder than my VR swap was. Takes quite a bit of fabbing to get a VR into a Mk1 chassis. Mine more or less bolted in w. the corrado front subframe. Good luck with the swap. And plan on driving mostly straight. That swap brings new meaning to the term "massive understeer".

Yah, I love craigslist. The 2 best cars I found so far were both on there.

Thanks for the e-bay link. If I can't find anything locally, that will probably be where I go. Those prices were better than anything I found on the net. As for getting a 280 instead of a 240, I really don't prefer one over the other, I just want a '73 or older so I don't have to mess with smog. I know it's technically supposed to be '75 and older now in CA, but I keep hearing rumors that they want to move it back to '73. I'll be pissed if I get '74 or '75, finish the swap, and they change it back to '73. I don't like messing w. smog, that's why my last project was a "diesel".

New guy checking in. My name is James and I'm in the North County/ San Diego area. I've been wanting to do a V-8 swapped Z for about 3 or 4 years now, ever since I saw some videos of Darius' 240z floating around on the net. Anyways, I've finally decided to dive into this. As far as performance for the dollar goes, this swap seems to be one the best out there. Plus, I've always liked the old school sports car look of the early Z's. Getting into a Z is going to be an entirely new thing for me. So far, I've been exclusively a watercooled VW guy. So I've been doing alot of researching and planning before I start in on this. Plus, I still have to part out my VW "racecar" project to fund this one. Only 1 project allowed....wife's rules. Picked up the JTR manual a couple days ago. Swap seems pretty straight forward. After researching the web for awhile, I'm very much leaning towards the LS1/t56 combo. I have quite a few friends in f-bodies and i love the incredible potential these motors have for power and still be streetable. Right now I'm in the process of trying to find a clean 73 or older Z that doesn't have too much rust. Hoping to pick one up for around a grand since I've got some time to shop around. If anyone local has a line on one, that would be awesome. It doesn't need to run, it justs need to have a title and not be too rusty. Which brings me to my first question. How much rust is too much when looking for a Z to swap a V-8 into. I've searched on here and found the common areas they rust at and found that rust is a pretty serious problem for z's, but where would you guys realistically draw the line when looking for a potential project? The couple I've looked at so far were mostly just surface rust spots with a couple of small spots rotted all the way through in the floor board and front fenders. But the doglegs in the rear were horrible. I'm pretty good with building motors and turning wrenches, but I'm not very skilled when it comes to body repair, so rust is big concern for me. 2nd question-Where do you find good prices on LS-1 complete front clips? I've heard some people talk about how they've come across complete clips or even wrecked cars for around 3500-4000. I haven't been able to find anything cheaper than 6 so far. Anyways, hopefully I'll be able to start posting some progress pics soon. Not sure how much I'll be to contribute to the technical since I'm completely new to these cars, but I'll try where I can. Oh yah, here's a couple pics of my old VW project. '86 4 door Golf diesel. I swapped a 2.8L VR6 into it. All the normal bolt-ons, headwork, cams, and a small shot of giggle gas. It made 187whp with a stock chip and no tuning, and 234whp on the spray. Went 13.4 @106 with a mediocre 2.1 60'. That was on 205/50r15 drag radials and full interior. It was pretty quick for what it was....an ugly as **** FWD shoebox on wheels. It was a fun car to drive and it caught alot of people off guard. But it's time to go faster, and I'm done with trying to drag race a car with wrong wheel drive. yikes, that was alot of typing....I'll try to keep my posts shorter from here on out.