JagdStealth

Were you able to figure out your problem? I've replaced the coil, CAS and power transistor. I also checked for continuity for all of the wiring...but I get NO SPARK

I should say I get 12V to BOTH terminals on the coil.

It's just a cap and rotor...'81 has the CAS and everything on the crank pully...

I'm having the same problem, only I know mine was wired correctly as it was running previously until something shorted out (I have a thread in the L6 forum). I tried replacing the ignitor and I get nothing at all. Hopefully someone has the magic advice, I'll keep looking...

Well I've replaced a bunch of wires and here's where I'm at... 12V to the coil when ignition is on, but no spark at all from the coil. I can manually put power and ground to the coil from the battery and it will spark, but nothing when hooked up properly. If I run a ground wire from the negative side of the coil to the body, I get a single spark when going to the accessory position, but nothing when turning over.

Just for others to read... No love on the ignition module fixing the problem. 12V go into the module and 0V go to the coil. I tried running the coil straight to the battery and still no spark. I guess something isn't telling the coil to fire...maybe the CAS? ANyone with ideas?

Well, my car has no fuseable links on it, it's all just wired up and there are a couple of inline fuses here and there (nothing on the ignition side). I orderd a new Ignition module and I hope that's the problem. It's impossible to find these stupid things so for anyone in the future who searches here are 2 part numbers I have found: Standard = LX1001 Neihoff = WA913L ...both of them are around $200

Thanks a lot, I'll go check that out

Where would they be on the L28ET? All I hve found so far is old Bus Fuses that the 240 came with...the previous owner installed the motor and it looks like he probably by passed some fuses... It seems to hard to find an ignition module, I can only find one store that carries it and they list it for a CA18DET, which I know isn't right.

Just checked some more stuff... All original equipment hooked up as it was when the problem started. 1. No spark at sparkplugs 2. Checked voltage to coil, only 4V (Ignition switch on, voltmeter from negative terminal to ground) 3. Checked voltage at the positive wire of the ignitor thingie, 12V So I'm thinking the ignitor is bad? 12V going into it, but only 4V when it comes out and connects to the coil?

All wires on the passenger side look fine. I tried jumping the collant temp sensor over there too, just in case it went bad some how. The car will just run on a few cylinders and blow tons of gas out the exhaust...bleh

'72 240Z with an '81 L28ET in it Yesterday while driving, the battery shorted out and caused the car to eventually die as I was driving. The battery tie down broke off it's stay and let the battery fall off the shelf resting against the block. I'm not sure how long it drove like that, but no more than a couple miles. Initial diagnosis looked like the coil was bad (no spark), so I tossed an MSD Blaster2 out of an old Dodge I have. This got the car to start only if you floored it...and then it only ran on ~3 cylinders if you kept the throttle on. So far I have: 1. swapped to a spare ECU 2. cleaned cap and rotor 3. cleaned plugs and checked all plug wires 4. swapped coil to MSD Blaster 2 (from an old Dodge, I know it works) 5. swapped AFM 6. Checked all fuses under the radio 7. Checked grounds 8. Unplugged what I think is the cold start sensor (passenger side, rear middle portion of block) I'm stumped as I can't get the car to run at all, does anyone have any ideas?

Sounds like the wastegate is sticking or the vacuum line connected to it is having some issues. There would be no reason that turning the boost controller off would change anything since the boost controller only controls boost above wastegate pressure.